VOGONS


First post, by Nvm1

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I am restoring a Packard Bell Legend 610 and run into an issue I need some help from experts here.
Things I already did:
- Remove barrel battery and fix an external battery to keep Bios settings
- Cleaned the thing over and over again till it was dust/spider/insect free
- Check HDD, ram and cpu and everything works with a non original AT psu
Remaining problem:
The original PSU has a non standard form, with the AT push button integrated into the PSU itself and connected through an insane long plastic thing to the front cover where the on-off push button is. I have no other matching PSU that fits well into the system. The original PSU has huge problems starting. Maybe one out of 100 times trying to start it powers through.
Since the changes are higher if you try to power it on, pull the plug and push reset and plug it in again and try to power it up again I was suspecting some of the caps where beyond their expiration date. So I changed the 6 big caps in the PSU hoping to resolve this issue. Soldering went well but after changing said 6 caps I have still the same issue with this psu.

So now my question, what can it else be inside the PSU why it hardly starts anymore?
The psu usually goes on, all lights on the case and keyboard blink on and then it quits... 😒

Reply 1 of 5, by CkRtech

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Check HDD, ram and cpu and everything works with a non original AT psu

Are you saying that you used another AT PSU and you tested some components separately on another system/mobo and they were fine, or that you booted the system with another power supply?

I have no other matching PSU that fits well into the system.

This meaning, again, you can use a power supply to boot the system, but it isn't going to fit the case to use as a replacement?

What were the 6 big caps you changed in the PSU? I haven't seen the inside of a Packard Bell Legend 610's PSU, but generally the large caps are filter caps on the primary side. There would be two of them. Those usually aren't the caps that go bad. The ones on the output side are typically the suspect ones. If you recap the power supply, it is best to do a full recap.

Reply 2 of 5, by Nvm1

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CkRtech wrote:
Are you saying that you used another AT PSU and you tested some components separately on another system/mobo and they were fine, […]
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Check HDD, ram and cpu and everything works with a non original AT psu

Are you saying that you used another AT PSU and you tested some components separately on another system/mobo and they were fine, or that you booted the system with another power supply?

I have no other matching PSU that fits well into the system.

This meaning, again, you can use a power supply to boot the system, but it isn't going to fit the case to use as a replacement?

What were the 6 big caps you changed in the PSU? I haven't seen the inside of a Packard Bell Legend 610's PSU, but generally the large caps are filter caps on the primary side. There would be two of them. Those usually aren't the caps that go bad. The ones on the output side are typically the suspect ones. If you recap the power supply, it is best to do a full recap.

I can power the whole system with another psu lying outside the system, that is how I tested the whole computer.

I changed the 6 biggest cap. I suspect the largest ones (it was 3 sets of identical ones) are the filter caps, the other ones should be the output ones. I have a picture of the desoldered caps attached, the smaller four ones where paired next to each other and atleast on of them had "goo" coming out of the bottom.

The attachment IMG_20171001_170328[1].jpg is no longer available

For the rest there are some really small caps inside. I forgot to take a pic so not really easy to explain how it looks.

Reply 3 of 5, by gdjacobs

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The two Nippon Chemi Cons were probably the main bulk caps. They're responsible for smoothing the 120hz FWR line voltage before being commutated by the main switchers and converted to low voltage/high current by the ferrite transformers. Although all capacitors will eventually fail, the bulk caps are probably the least likely to do so.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 4 of 5, by CkRtech

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Nvm1 wrote:

For the rest there are some really small caps inside. I forgot to take a pic so not really easy to explain how it looks.

How small is really small? The smaller caps for output should still be of somewhat decent size and are important for output. The last AT power supply I recapped still had 2200uf and 3300uf caps at the output that were around 20mm-25mm tall. I don't know how your particular power supply is built, but the caps at the output are typically going to be your suspect caps.

You could probably put those large caps back in circuit, and they would do the job fine.

I would like to see photos of the PSU if you get the chance. I imagine I will do some Packard Bell restores one day, myself.

Reply 5 of 5, by Nvm1

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CkRtech wrote:
How small is really small? The smaller caps for output should still be of somewhat decent size and are important for output. The […]
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Nvm1 wrote:

For the rest there are some really small caps inside. I forgot to take a pic so not really easy to explain how it looks.

How small is really small? The smaller caps for output should still be of somewhat decent size and are important for output. The last AT power supply I recapped still had 2200uf and 3300uf caps at the output that were around 20mm-25mm tall. I don't know how your particular power supply is built, but the caps at the output are typically going to be your suspect caps.

You could probably put those large caps back in circuit, and they would do the job fine.

I would like to see photos of the PSU if you get the chance. I imagine I will do some Packard Bell restores one day, myself.

I just made it back from 10 days on Sicily driving around for my holiday 🤣

Going to open the PSU again and post pictures. The 4 smaller caps in the psu where on the output side and I replaced them to be sure there shouldn't the issue. I also replaced the fuse because the glass was already milky in color which shouldn't be (and made it impossible to see if the wire was still ok).