hard1k wrote:

a mounting hole on the PCB is missing

Time for a new rev!

d0pefish wrote:

the standoffs/screw posts of the joystick port would keep the bracket attached

matze79 wrote:

Why not 3D Print them ?

That could be done to create a plastic jig. Take a blank IO plate, put it in the jig, use a punch tool, drill out holes. The jig holes would be smaller than the actual jacks so just to line up the punch tool. The DB-15 would be 2 bracket holes, 4 corner holes, and a center most hole.

some suggestions for easier install of components (at least as a noob I think this might be improvements for future boards):

1) wouldn't it be better for the jumpers to use holes ? so we can actuall install 3pin headers for real jumpers?
2) capacitors 725, 718 etc., those 4, could use 1mm more spacing if possible. They stick one to the other with my caps so they could use little more space. Plus i only installed the IC U60 later, and it was a pain to solder the 4pins on the side where the 3 caps sit ^^
all the rest is cool, it was fun to solder those mini-smds 😀 I'll get the missing resistors and caps during lunchbreak i guess.

If you click the google-drive sheet, you see what was missing (v3 comments on top: 2,2k 22k 2,2uf 😉 ) see my sig for the parts list

Another shit: the subd is bullshit as it doesnt come with removable screws...need to find another one...see the difference vetween the argus,bot, and the terratec, top, which has the correct slot-cover

lucky #13 arrived 😁

I'll have to see about the missing parts now, I used the basket link posted in this thread and there are no 2,2K resistors or 2,2uf caps 🙁

@Phreeze
your list is also the complete list of where to solder components, correct?

Great 😀 Apart from the 4 betatesters on the american continent (and local pickups) everyone should have their cards now.

shock__ wrote:

Great 😀 Apart from the 4 betatesters on the american continent (and local pickups) everyone should have their cards now.

I missed mine last friday. I went and picked up today at the post office.

#5

Soldering will start when I get my digikey components AND found a donnor card for the bracket (need to dive into my bucket of old hw.)

I care not for the GUS, but this project rocks!

Amazing work all round and I'm really looking forward to hearing these bad boys in action 😎

Once again the documentation files (slightly updated)

1/IW78C21M1
2- IWDUMP.exe - InterWave RAM/ROM dump tool by wbcbz7
3- md5sum.exe - a md5 checksum generator for DOS by eltree.org
4- checksum.jpg - photo of the checksum of an original IW78C21M1 chip
5
6/PNPMAP
7- pnpmap.exe - PNPMAP tool by Gravis for reprogramming the EEPROM
8- Gravnocd.rom - ROM file that will be written to the EEPROM
9- readme - original Readme by Gravis
10
11prototype2-bill_of_materials.txt - Bill of materials required for assembling the card
12prototype2-changelog.txt - changelog describing the changes from Prototype #1 -> Prototype #2
13prototype2-component_map.bmp - 600dpi image of the component map (might be useful when assembling the card)
14prototype2-installation_notes.txt - short notes on initially installing the card under DOS
15prototype2-schematic.pdf - Full schematic of Prototype #2 of the ARGUS project
16readme.txt - this file

i updated the parts list with a better D-Sub15 connector, with removable screws
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iqbmu … t#gid=750850328

new updated cart:

http://www.digikey.lu/short/q890rp

can someone confirm these caps and resistors are the right ones to use?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-mc0805b225k2 … 119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-MCPWR05FTEW2 … 119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-MCPWR05FTEW2 … 119.m1438.l2649

it's from one of the only shops I can find in europe that has all 3 parts

(UK seller, it's in english, dont mind the german ebay urls)

Those should work.

Phreeze wrote:

i updated the parts list with a better D-Sub15 connector, with removable screws https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iqbmu … […]
Show full quote

i updated the parts list with a better D-Sub15 connector, with removable screws
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iqbmu … t#gid=750850328

new updated cart:

http://www.digikey.lu/short/q890rp

Where do you get the FLASH from ? Digikey is out of stock here with a 20 weeks lead time.

@Synoptic - I just got mine from eBay

can someone confirm these caps and resistors are the right ones to use? http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-mc0805 ... 1438.l2649 h […]
Show full quote

can someone confirm these caps and resistors are the right ones to use?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-mc0805 ... 1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-MCPWR0 ... 1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MULTICOMP-MCPWR0 ... 1438.l2649

it's from one of the only shops I can find in europe that has all 3 parts

(UK seller, it's in english, dont mind the german ebay urls)

They were not in basket you prepared?

as said 10 times: NO, i forgot them. And as NOONE in this thread took 5minutes to review the list, which is PUBLIC and posted on every page, errors might happen. This is a community project, so I hoped that at least someone would have double checked the list. anyway, i took them from the UK seller.

The flash was available when i put it into the list:
IC FLASH 8MBIT 70NS 44SOP
basically you can order this anywhere. It has to have 44 pins, 70NS speed or faster and a capacity of 8MBIT (1Megabyte).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Macronix-MX29F800CBM … wAAAOSwz3JaG~mD

here's a seller from UK, you can get them easily without big waiting times

Phreeze wrote:

as said 10 times: NO, i forgot them. And as NOONE in this thread took 5minutes to review the list, which is PUBLIC and posted on every page, errors might happen. This is a community project, so I hoped that at least someone would have double checked the list. anyway, i took them from the UK seller.

okay okay... chill out - just asked without any claim... I havo not seen it mentioned 10 Times... and I preffer to be sure before I spend 10 euros or more.
Sorry and thank you. I'll order them from links you gave.

I'm not an electronic... I have to gather parts and give tchem to company that will solder all of it. That is why I'm asking.

just solder it yourself, it's really not that hard.

Phreeze wrote:

just solder it yourself, it's really not that hard.

Haha... I even never had soldering iron in my hands... EVER - and difference between capacitor and that other small things 😉 is hard for me to get 😀
I want to have it working to make recordings, comparements with my to PnP's and clonse (about 10 pieces)... maybe some some drivers issues etc.

@Phreeze
I looked at your picture, when you took it C15A/C15B/C16A/C16B (near the xtals) seem like one end is not soldered.

Generally speaking smd soldering is not that easy like hole-thru one, one does need some experience so personally I wouldn't classify the whole project as a "newcomer friendly" one.

edit:
is there a workaround/trick to solder the SOJ sockets for the dram without using an oven? or maybe some kind of special soj socket? 😕

keropi wrote:

is there a workaround/trick to solder the SOJ sockets for the dram without using an oven? or maybe some kind of special soj socket? 😕

Good question. Personally I gave up when trying to manually solder those in. Hot air also won't work as the plastic would burn. As said, if someone succeeds soldering those in place give me a ring 😉

One workaround that might work with some sockets is to break out the bottom plastic and solder the points each on their own (won't work on the ones I got, as the plastic is too thick).
See: https://i.imgur.com/HFhhaNv.jpg (CPU socket in a BBC Archimedes 3000)

keropi wrote:

@Phreeze
I looked at your picture, when you took it C15A/C15B/C16A/C16B (near the xtals) seem like one end is not soldered.
:

well seen! I'll check at home! Allthough i might haven taken the picture while working 😉