Resistance is futile!

Ha! That's how I plan to start out as well 😎

it's a good way to move by height from smaller to taller and leave bulky and big components for the end.

Cyrix200+ wrote:

Resistance is futile!

The Snorg Borger? 🤣

HOLY CAP! That's a lot of capacitors. All of a sudden I'm getting there!

Time spent soldering so far: 5.5 hours of fun.

I screwed up a bit, mixed up the 2 types of diodes. Cost me about 30 minutes to desolder and resolder

what a great project, i will pm you about the brackets
(I am investigating bracket suppliers)

Awesome. I will nevertheless try to manufacture one bracket next week. Volume wheel slot will be the hardest.

dreamblaster wrote:

what a great project, i will pm you about the brackets
(I am investigating bracket suppliers)

Wow if we can get a production run of these it would be awesome!

Almost done! Still have to program the microcontroller, and the YM3812 and NE558 are still in the mail.

That looks awesome! Hope to hear this in action when its finally assembled. How long time did it take in total so far?

Eight hours of assembling, in three evenings. My technique was a lot quicker in the end, it was also a learning experience for me. I also spent a few hours reading the docs, ordering parts and learning how KiCad works.

-- edited a dumb autocorrect. it took EIGHT hours, not RIGHT hours.

Very nice work Cyrix200+! I worked on my own board this weekend, but I am battling to get a few parts - the NJM3403A and the audio jacks are proving to be the most difficult. I managed to get an NE558 from another sound card, the sound chips from eBay and all the rest locally - but finding the exact audio jacks locally seems impossible - and the only NJM3403A chips available locally are surface mount. It does take hours though - spent at least 2 hours yesterday building my board and I guess there is at least another few hours of work ahead before I have a working board - not to mention weeks of waiting for overseas deliveries.

It's very rewarding though to just sit and work though a project like this however.

AnacreonZA wrote:

Very nice work Cyrix200+! I worked on my own board this weekend, but I am battling to get a few parts - the NJM3403A and the audio jacks are proving to be the most difficult. I managed to get an NE558 from another sound card, the sound chips from eBay and all the rest locally - but finding the exact audio jacks locally seems impossible - and the only NJM3403A chips available locally are surface mount. It does take hours though - spent at least 2 hours yesterday building my board and I guess there is at least another few hours of work ahead before I have a working board - not to mention weeks of waiting for overseas deliveries.

It's very rewarding though to just sit and work though a project like this however.

It is very rewarding indeed.

I ordered everything at Mouser (except the NE558, TEA2025B, YM3812, YM3014B and SAA1099), using the BOM, you could probably do that of Mouser delivers in your area.

Shipping costs though 🙁

At least shipping to Germany is free on Mouser orders over 50 EUR. One can usually achieve this by bundling projects in one shipping. Digikey might be another option to order from, but they also have shipping fees.

Thanks - I think I'll try mouser. Apparently there is a South African mouser site, but I think I'll use my Aramex Global Shopper address instead just to be safe.

Is there any reason to use ceramic fiml caps resistors instead of metal film ones on the Snark Barker and Adlib cards?

Generally speaking, for decoupling caps (the ones near logic ICs and digital I/O), ceramic are the most common type used. Film is preferable where they will be in the audio path (op-amp circuits, DC-blocking on the analog in / out, etc.) You can of course use either. Film are normally a bit larger and more expensive, so not often used for simple decoupling purposes. Ceramic don't sound as nice. (But whether you will be able to tell is debatable. There are plenty of ceramic caps in audio circuits out in the real world.)

Cyrix200+ wrote:

A TL866CS should be able to flash it, right?

Programmed it today, worked like a charm. Can't test the card yet, missing two IC's 🙁

The quad timer is only necessary for the game port, I think. But the yamaha ICs are obviously necessary…

root42 wrote:

The quad timer is only necessary for the game port, I think. But the yamaha ICs are obviously necessary…

Yeah I think my CT1350B has a socketed YM3812. Might just take that one and try without the quad timer. Or I could be patient haha