Well, first of all, get the battery out of there if you haven't already. Then clean the area with a very weak acid (yes vinegar will work though I never use it myself), then alcohol to rinse everything off and dry it, then get a good picture of the damaged area.

It may require some patch wires and/or a couple of components if you can solder.

I've seen similar condition boards work out of the "box" and others needed extensive work, sometimes it depends on how the board is constructed.

Personally I'd try to save it, but Way Out West those are pretty rare / impossible to find.

This is a real gem... first time I see so intense damage.

You'll have to clean very carefully... hard brushing could erase all the traces you need, PCB traces, component types and values. Especially in the closer vicinity of Ground Zero...

And then the degree of decomposition on the IC leads... steel and tin layer have separated already. I guess there might be internal destruction, either now already or in the future... most of these are Schneider custom chips.

But I am no hardcore vogon, let's see what the others will comment 😀

Sure, try to fix it!

If no success:
Re: What retro activity did you get up to today?

i-Wood

I-wood?
It cleaned up almost nicely... Still a tiny bit of green gunk on some chips and resistors.

http://imgur.com/a/U10x5KZ

Soaked it up on vinegar for a few minutes, scrubbed it with a toothbrush, rinsed with IPA and now just waiting for it to evaporate.

Any ideas on what to do next?
Also I'm lacking the power supply for it. Does anyone know the name of the connector so I can source and build / adapt a psu for this?

I'm having a better look at it, and it seems J59 and J58 are jumpers right?. R16 (right next to the battery area) is broken too

Hey, good work! Now you can run Disk Control Program 3.x (DCP) on that PC.. It's from the same time frame, but from East Germany. 😀
Or simply try DOS Plus 1.2 on a 360KB formatted boot floppy (just write a 5.25" image to a 3.5" diskette) if you feel adventureous.

Edit: About that PSU plug.. If it is the round one, then that might be a DIN connector (aka diode plug, "Diodenstecker").
Such a plug was used for keyboards, MIDI and older CB radios. And for audio cables on older cassette recorders.

Using the Faraday FE2010 integrated chipset. A very advanced solution at the time. They basically fit an entire 5150/5160 motherboard into that chip, aside from CPU and memory.
That allowed OEMs to easily build compact motherboards with video, floppy, harddisk, serial and parallel ports integrated.

i have the power supply but its deep inside my storage bin..

I also got a Euro PC, is this Clone Board buyable ?

I'd also be interested in either a PCB or a Gerber files for that pcb

Hi all,
Ola patrício,

Your EuroPC seems a bit more salvageable than mine. I'm still in the process of transferring the IC's to the prototype PCB and sourcing parts (mainly ttl, and I do want to maintain the LS versions). So, I still haven't tested the "alpha" version of the PCB. There are some problems in my design, the vias should be smaller (nice to have big pads on a prototype, but not as in the original PCB) and the screw up on ic U44 must be corrected, plus minor corrections on the silkscreen...

As soon as I manage to successfully test my PCB I will make it available in some way.

PS: Desoldering corroded components can be a pain in the as*

Ola Xeon3d,

I'm in the process of populating the board. Had a few screw ups that I managed to fix, and I think that its now safe to transfer the IC's. All IC's will be socketed except the CGA chip, obviously....

In the next few weeks I will probably be able to do a power on test.

It seems that every day I receive from China a couple of parts to add to my pcb. Slow and steady wins the race 🤣

PS:
@Xeon3d: I can't yet PM you, so if you need my help just leave your contact.

Hi xicor.

Hope you have good luck with it and that when you finally get your clone board working, lemme know. 😀

I'm happy I found it a new and caring home.