appiah4 wrote:

GigAHerZ wrote:

Got the Diamond Stealth 3D 2000 card and some 3" diskettes for two old nokia mobile phones through a trade.
Now i have the famous 3d DEcelerator!

I have the Pro (Virge/DX) version of that. I have yet to see it accelerate anything. It is a good PCI card though, not very easy to find S3 cards with decent VGA to be honest; most of them have blurry or washed out signal..

I see your Stealth 3D 2000 and 2000Pro and raise you a Stealth 3D 3000, with Virge/VX, the ultimate decelerator 😜

I also have the 2000 actually, and some other Virge/DX card, as well as another Elsa Virge/VX card. One day I intend to bench the beasts, but it's not exactly high on my list of priorities.

Good thing is that the Stealth 3D 2000 happily accepts 40MHz PCI, so I run that on my Cx5x86-120 system with 1:1 PCI divider. Not the fastest 486 on the planet, but beats the pants off anything else I have, including an Am5x85 running at 3x50MHz (haven't tried that with 1:1 PCI divider though...)

This thing arrived... payed a bit more than usual (~100USD) but beside some minor scratches on the case this thing is in like new condition (even battery doesn't have any leaks).

Other than CT1350B it has OAK video card, generic multi i/o, 386DX40 board with ALi chipset and ST3144A. Case is pretty cool too...

appiah4 wrote:

Plastics did not melt but after only five minutes at 195C as soon as I took off the card out of the oven the SMD BIOS chips slid and fell off. The soldermask had turned yellowish.

Moral of this story: Don't bake retro hardware.

And that is the exact reason why you should let stuff cool down slowly after baking. At least you know the solder melted.

I probably would have tried 175C (350F) first. Newer solder has a higher melting point since it has no lead in it.

cyclone3d wrote:

appiah4 wrote:

Plastics did not melt but after only five minutes at 195C as soon as I took off the card out of the oven the SMD BIOS chips slid and fell off. The soldermask had turned yellowish.

Moral of this story: Don't bake retro hardware.

And that is the exact reason why you should let stuff cool down slowly after baking. At least you know the solder melted.

I probably would have tried 175C (350F) first. Newer solder has a higher melting point since it has no lead in it.

Seems so.. Yet strangely enough when I try to desolder stuff from older cards it's impossible to melt that dull grey solder. How come?

appiah4 wrote:

Seems so.. Yet strangely enough when I try to desolder stuff from older cards it's impossible to melt that dull grey solder. How come?

Because of poor heat transfer from the soldering iron to the solder.

If using a soldering iron, you want to not only tin the soldering iron tip, you also want to use some flux to help de-oxidize the old solder and also help transfer heat.

Adding a small ball of new solder to the soldering iron tip also helps.

Funny I never had problems with old lead soldered boards, but newer silver solder needs a ton of heat and surface area to melt.

I had problems with both lead free and lead solder. Sometimes lead will turn into some strange pasty like stuff. I have no idea what happens. Yet adding fresh lead solder, it return to original state on how the solder reacts to heat. My advice is to add just a tiny bit of new lead solder to both lead free and lead solder.

HanJammer wrote:

This thing arrived... payed a bit more than usual (~100USD) but beside some minor scratches on the case this thing is in like ne […]
Show full quote

This thing arrived... payed a bit more than usual (~100USD) but beside some minor scratches on the case this thing is in like new condition (even battery doesn't have any leaks).

WP_20190523_16_32_32_Rich.jpg

WP_20190523_16_33_46_Rich.jpg

Other than CT1350B it has OAK video card, generic multi i/o, 386DX40 board with ALi chipset and ST3144A. Case is pretty cool too...

They're beautiful, both of them. I'm jealous...

Got this Guillemot Maxi-Gamer 3DFX Voodoo card in today! It might not be the highest end, or the best brand, but it's my first 3DFX Voodoo and it only cost me €25, so I'm happy 😀
It'll go into my Pentium 233MMX machine (OC'd at 300MHz on a Super Socket 7 board). And before anyone says anything, it was on the bag only for the picture, it's safely back in the bag now 😉

Image removed for copyright reasons.

Make sure you get some airflow on that board or it will die. Had this problem so many times back in the day, had to have 3dfx replace 2 Voodoo 2s, then eventually I added a fan to blow on it.

Daniël Oosterhuis wrote:

Got this Guillemot Maxi-Gamer 3DFX Voodoo card in today! It might not be the highest end, or the best brand, but it's my first 3DFX Voodoo and it only cost me €25, so I'm happy 😀
It'll go into my Pentium 233MMX machine (OC'd at 300MHz on a Super Socket 7 board). And before anyone says anything, it was on the bag only for the picture, it's safely back in the bag now 😉

IMG_20190524_151544423.jpg

Congrats....
I have tried both V1, V2 (8mb, 12mb both SLI and non-SLI and V3-3500. And I must say that I find V1 the most interresting. Sure V3-3500 are awesomme indeed, yet for the money now a days, there are way better alternatives. V1 are just good, as the era they were introduced, did not offer anything better. 25 Euro are a good price.

Got a case for my XP build, Raidmax Cobra 822. This is almost the exact same case I used in my first computer that I built in 2004, though that one was blue. Surprised to find one brand new.

Also got a Savage 2000 card. Super generic packaging, not sure if that's all S3 did for this card. The CD could be handy since it has multiple drivers for most main vendors from the time.

Just usual Cirrus Logic VLB CL-GD5428 graphics but it's the first in my collection. It didn't work without JP11 shorted. Altough it doesn't start sometimes the picture quality is excellent, IMO. Some repair will be necessary. I've tried to add second megabyte of memory but have realised it's not useful for using with LCD monitors that don't work in interlaced mode.

brostenen wrote:

Daniël Oosterhuis wrote:

Got this Guillemot Maxi-Gamer 3DFX Voodoo card in today! It might not be the highest end, or the best brand, but it's my first 3DFX Voodoo and it only cost me €25, so I'm happy 😀
It'll go into my Pentium 233MMX machine (OC'd at 300MHz on a Super Socket 7 board). And before anyone says anything, it was on the bag only for the picture, it's safely back in the bag now 😉

IMG_20190524_151544423.jpg

Congrats....
I have tried both V1, V2 (8mb, 12mb both SLI and non-SLI and V3-3500. And I must say that I find V1 the most interresting. Sure V3-3500 are awesomme indeed, yet for the money now a days, there are way better alternatives. V1 are just good, as the era they were introduced, did not offer anything better. 25 Euro are a good price.

Agreed! Voodoo 1 was a serious game changer (pun intended) however, Voodoo 2 absolutely had its place in the late 90's

Roman555 wrote:

Just usual Cirrus Logic VLB CL-GD5428 graphics but it's the first in my collection. It didn't work without JP11 shorted. Altough it doesn't start sometimes the picture quality is excellent, IMO. Some repair will be necessary. I've tried to add second megabyte of memory but have realised it's not useful for using with LCD monitors that don't work in interlaced mode.

Try cleaning the isa and vlb edge connectors with ipa and a soft eraser, most likely you are having a bad connectivity issue

SEGamer wrote:

Got a case for my XP build, Raidmax Cobra 822. This is almost the exact same case I used in my first computer that I built in 20 […]
Show full quote

Got a case for my XP build, Raidmax Cobra 822. This is almost the exact same case I used in my first computer that I built in 2004, though that one was blue. Surprised to find one brand new.

IMG_20190523_154515.jpg

IMG_20190523_154544.jpg

Also got a Savage 2000 card. Super generic packaging, not sure if that's all S3 did for this card. The CD could be handy since it has multiple drivers for most main vendors from the time.

IMG_20190524_141849.jpg

where are you finding 2000s cases new?

keropi wrote:

Roman555 wrote:

Just usual Cirrus Logic VLB CL-GD5428 graphics but it's the first in my collection. It didn't work without JP11 shorted. Altough it doesn't start sometimes the picture quality is excellent, IMO. Some repair will be necessary. I've tried to add second megabyte of memory but have realised it's not useful for using with LCD monitors that don't work in interlaced mode.

Try cleaning the isa and vlb edge connectors with ipa and a soft eraser, most likely you are having a bad connectivity issue

I've cleaned the edge connector but it hasn't helped. The PCB is not as thick as I've expected. For example my VLB MIO PCB is thicker. I don't know, I have to understand what's wrong. Maybe it's isa/vesa connectors of the mainboard lose contacts (I've got only one VLB mainboard so I can't test the graphics card in another one).

I got slightly obsessed with trying to build a Windows 98 SE on an HP Thin Client T5710 after reading some posts on here. I found one for cheap on eBay for about $28, and it was a fairly upgraded one with a 1.1 GHz Transmeta CPU. I took it apart to check the hardware and remove the 256 MB DOM, but I saw this (see attached image). Kind of bummed now.

oeuvre wrote:

where are you finding 2000s cases new?

Randomly found this one on ebay just searching "Raidmax cobra" so it was pure luck. I seem to find this stuff when just searching on a whim instead of searching daily/weekly for over a year. Same happened with the motherboard I'm going to put in that case. Almost got everything for a 15 year anniversary of my first gaming computer. 😁

galland101 wrote:

I got slightly obsessed with trying to build a Windows 98 SE on an HP Thin Client T5710 after reading some posts on here. I found one for cheap on eBay for about $28, and it was a fairly upgraded one with a 1.1 GHz Transmeta CPU. I took it apart to check the hardware and remove the 256 MB DOM, but I saw this (see attached image). Kind of bummed now.

Don't get too discouraged. Replacing capacitors is pretty simple.