VOGONS


First post, by DracoNihil

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I don't know how many people here even have one of these things, and my father's being senile and thinks "Oh but nothing should of happened to it, it was just sitting there unused all these years" when I told him this thing wont power on anymore.

Basically I plug the thing in, switch it on, absolutely nothing happens. No magic smoke, no heat accumulating anywhere, just absolutely nothing happens.

I can't even get the plug to spark the electrical outlet either. The plug doesn't seem to heat up at all just leaving it in with the switch on.

Did the power supply to this thing (or whatever equivalent) basically decayed from age?

“I am the dragon without a name…”
― Κυνικός Δράκων

Reply 2 of 6, by DracoNihil

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If I knew how to safely access this thing I would.

Wikipedia says apparently the thing is "public domain", does that mean a full schematic of this exists detailing every component?

“I am the dragon without a name…”
― Κυνικός Δράκων

Reply 3 of 6, by SirNickity

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I don't mean this to be offensive, but if you're not comfortable pulling it apart, identifying the PSU, and checking for voltage .... what good is a schematic? IMO, either you're capable of troubleshooting it, or you probably need to take it to someone who is. Or, I guess, if it's not worth bothering to you, pass it on in "as-is" condition and I'm positive someone will be willing to take it off your hands.

With any old bit of electronics, when they've been sitting for a significant period, it's generally wise to test the power supply in isolation -- not connected to the irreplaceable downstream electronics. PSUs have a tough life, and when they go, they can take other things with them. But definitely ... definitely don't leave something plugged in that isn't behaving correctly. It's not safe for you or the valuable item. Could be a blown fuse, or it could be a switching power supply stuck open and dumping current into a load. You never know. Minimize the chance of damage.

And absolutely NEVER poke the wall outlet with the plug trying to get it to spark. At best, nothing happens. At worst, you're subjecting the supply to inrush current of sometimes hundreds of amps, over and over and over... that's very rude to a PSU. They aren't meant to withstand repeated inrush.

Again, please take this with sincere intentions. I'm not trying to lecture you, but it seems like you've got some bad habits that could damage things or hurt you, and I'd like to avoid both. 😀

Good luck!

Reply 4 of 6, by CrossBow777

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The vectrex uses a small isolation transformer inside it to generate the various voltages needed inside it. I believe there is a fuse but it all requires you to remove the back cover from the system to see and access it.

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Midi Modules: MT-32 (OLD), MT-200, MT-300, MT-90S, MT-90U, SD-20

Reply 5 of 6, by DracoNihil

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SirNickity wrote:

And absolutely NEVER poke the wall outlet with the plug trying to get it to spark.

Oh no I wasn't doing anything like that, I was just referring to the fact in this house normally when I plug something in there's a spark if power is being conducted. Nearly anything I plug in with this house does that. Even this PC I use causes that to happen.

I also primarily want to look up a schematic because I'm aware of several components that can go wrong that most likely need replaced, capacitors especially. As much as I'd love to take this to someone who probably knows more about the Vectrex construction, I doubt I can find anyone locally where I live so I pretty much need as much information on this thing so I can figure it out on my own. I used to do electronics as a hobby so I still know how to use soldering irons and multimetres.

“I am the dragon without a name…”
― Κυνικός Δράκων

Reply 6 of 6, by SirNickity

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Ah OK. Incidentally, that spark is typically from a switching supply filling the first-stage high-voltage rectified DC capacitors. Or, in linear supplies, the initial back-EMF developing in the transformer, and then subsequent filling of the (low-voltage) rectified DC caps. Anything that has a mains disconnect for a power switch shouldn't do that. The only reason it might is if the chassis has a static charge that is dissipating through the ground pin on the plug.

Anyway, I'm not familiar with the Vectrex in specific, but generally all PSUs (and sometimes the main board as well) will have a few electrolytic capacitors that are probably due for replacement. The voltage and capacity should be printed on the capacitor's casing. The only thing you need to worry about is pin pitch (often something like 10mm, 5mm, 2.5mm, etc.) and (maximum) case diameter. The latter can be fudged if there's room around the component, but you'll almost always find they've gotten smaller since the 80s.

You can get an inventory with an hour to kill, a small metric ruler, and perhaps a set of calipers. You don't usually have to get too crazy with ESR, since quality caps of a given rating and size tend to be designed for certain applications, and so will be engineered to comply with the rigors of those applications. But it is a good idea to stick to 105C-rated parts if you can, and fall back to 85C only where you must. Overkill for most components, but in cramped PSUs and around heat-generating transistors, resistors, diodes, or CRTs, it is still important. Post pictures of the original part if you need help spec'ing a replacement.

I recommend going to Digikey with your parts list, selecting a reputable and prolific brand (I favor Nichicon, but others will have their preferences), and narrowing it down by capacity and pin-pitch first. Continue filtering by temp and case size. Pick the one with the highest current rating and you'll probably get a part that's more robust than the original.