Hi.
It is probably what happens on mine.
Labs wrote he can send new ones with firmware 3.0
Some more capacitors may be needed on the 5v

It did work with irq 7. Then i changed to irq 5 and thé DSP stopper To answer To the init.

Are you planning To release new board ?.
Replace the @ decoding part by an epld To decode more i/o And emulate more cards can be excellent. Covox tandy tandy DAC ..

If you think you have the same problem as matze had - you should check your pc's psu first and then try to reflash the atmega using your TL866 with current firmware v2.0. Download link is on the first post of this thread. v3.0 is in the working and is not ready yet.
What did you already try to do? I asked you to send me a photo of the solder side. Everything could be solved, but I can't help you only by guessing.

FreddyV wrote:

Are you planning To release new board ?.

What do you mean? A new batch of BlasterBoards will be available in January.

I am not at home currently.
What kind of psu problem can cause this ?
I use an xt ide an EMS card and a SB pro without problem in it.
The PSU is in the monitor in the amstrad PC.
It can also be an electrostatic discharge when i took the card To change the irq.

https://www.cui.com/blog/how-to-measure-rippl … -power-supplies

This can cause Problems.

Failing Capacitors for example.

Hi,
I am back to home
I did put the ATMega on my programmer, it was Ok.

If I put the BlasterBoard in the Atari PC2 (8088), it is working with Mod Master, but it is not detected by Prince of Persia (No Sound)

Then, I suppose that an aditionnal delay is probably needed on the Power Good (Reset problem) and/Or there are some problem of timing with 8086 / 8088 machines.

http://nerdlypleasures.blogspot.com/2015/08/p … sound-card.html

you can try to patch PoP.
Be sure you unpack the EXE first.

Also have Quirks with my V20, but Apro LTDs Adlib also makes same shit, but Sergey Kieslevs Adlib Card works fine.

Hi.
I tried with the sblaster paramètre i have only adlib.
Then i did ctrl alt del . Then the board is no more recognized at all. No adlib and no s blaster anymore.
I am using a GUS and a sound galaxy in this PC without problem.
....

Such unstable behavior is an assembly/soldering issue.
BB is not quirky or capriciously designed and during last 6 months was assembled by many users with variable soldering skills, tested and approved to work on lots of different systems. So I can assure you in its stability when assembled properly. Trying faulty card in different systems over and over again just makes things worse and disappoints.
I asked you several times to send me the a photo of a solder side, which you did not. So at first I recommend you to investigate thoroughly your work yourself. If you have any specific questions - please pm me, I'll be glad to help.

I did not send it because it worked on the other PC.
I have to remove it first.

I have received my pre-assembled BLASTERBOARD and it is working extremely well! Very satisfied with this card, it looks really beautiful. Expensive but worth it 😀

I did have to change the IRQ from 5 to 7 however: do you know what the reason would be? I'm using a KT7A (VIA VT686B). Even when I forced IRQ 5 to "Legacy ISA" it didn't work.

Also do I need to reflash the firmware to the latest version? It seems to work fine with the current one.

EDIT: also wondering what the difference between "H5" and "H6" jumpers is?

cde wrote on 2020-01-08, 21:19:

I have received my pre-assembled BLASTERBOARD and it is working extremely well! Very satisfied with this card, it looks really b […]
Show full quote

I have received my pre-assembled BLASTERBOARD and it is working extremely well! Very satisfied with this card, it looks really beautiful. Expensive but worth it 😀

I did have to change the IRQ from 5 to 7 however: do you know what the reason would be? I'm using a KT7A (VIA VT686B). Even when I forced IRQ 5 to "Legacy ISA" it didn't work.

Also do I need to reflash the firmware to the latest version? It seems to work fine with the current one.

EDIT: also wondering what the difference between "H5" and "H6" jumpers is?

Thanks for the feedback. You can find jumper settings near the logo, H5 - to set IRQ for the DSP (the one you should use), H6 - IRQ for the OPL2 (which can be skipped, as Adlib and SB cards do not use it). So just remove the jumper from H6 and set H5 to the middle setting for IRQ5 as it was when shipped. I tested the card with all hardware settings before shipping, so there must be a hardware conflict in your system, please check your M/B.
The firmware should not be updated, as you card is flashed with the latest version (2.0) yet. I will inform everyone when new version will be released.

Thanks Eugene. I retried yesterday with IRQ 5 and this time it worked just fine!

About the CD-in RGL connector: can I take male-female dupont cables and connect this way my current RGGL cable to this RGL layout?

cde wrote on 2020-01-10, 13:22:

can I take male-female dupont cables and connect this way my current RGGL cable to this RGL layout?

sure

This is an awsome project.

Currently, I'm reactivating my first "PC". It's a Turbo XT clone with NEC V20@12MHz, VGA (Trident TVGA9000b) and MFM/ST-225 Harddrive.
After some cleaning and maintainance the "beast" came right up.
One thing is missing. An appropriate sound device. But prices on ebay for the Sound Blaster 8 Bit/ISA are insane.
So... I got here 😉

bibo wrote on 2020-01-27, 19:42:

This is an awsome project. Currently, I'm reactivating my first "PC". It's a Turbo XT clone with NEC V20@12MHz, VGA (Trident T […]
Show full quote

This is an awsome project.

Currently, I'm reactivating my first "PC". It's a Turbo XT clone with NEC V20@12MHz, VGA (Trident TVGA9000b) and MFM/ST-225 Harddrive.
After some cleaning and maintainance the "beast" came right up.
One thing is missing. An appropriate sound device. But prices on ebay for the Sound Blaster 8 Bit/ISA are insane.
So... I got here 😉

Welcome! Do you want to build your own one? Beware that it isn’t much cheaper than an original Sound Blaster... but much more fun!

Yes and yes I know. But I think, this device/LABS effort is worth the money.
Here you got almost a new sound card rather than a 25+ years old - don't know how it was treatened - device.
Additionally... I like to build up/repair things, so I want to have this fun 😀

bibo wrote on 2020-01-27, 19:42:

This is an awsome project. Currently, I'm reactivating my first "PC". It's a Turbo XT clone with NEC V20@12MHz, VGA (Trident T […]
Show full quote

This is an awsome project.

Currently, I'm reactivating my first "PC". It's a Turbo XT clone with NEC V20@12MHz, VGA (Trident TVGA9000b) and MFM/ST-225 Harddrive.
After some cleaning and maintainance the "beast" came right up.
One thing is missing. An appropriate sound device. But prices on ebay for the Sound Blaster 8 Bit/ISA are insane.
So... I got here 😉

Hello and welcome!
Please check your PM.

Dear BB users,

It is already 7 months since the first BB kits were released, so let's share your experience of using BB!

How many of you actually assembled the kit and use it in your retro systems?
How do you find it overall? The sound? Did you try to plug a big sound system?
Do you use volume pots often?
Any hardware/software issues?
Is it the only sound card in your system? Why not?
etc etc

Let's improve BB together! Looking forward to your posts with photos.

Thanks!

Well, you know my BlasterBoard and it has become my main soundcard in the 386 alongside the SnarkBarker. Works like a charm. I didn’t even bother to upgrade the firmware. It just works(tm).

I have my blasterboard assembled and working. It sounds great.

I was hoping LABS could make progress with getting it working with the windows SB 2.0 drivers, so it could permanently replace the SB 2.0 card in my 286.