Set the temp of your soldering device to a bit above whatever the melting point of your solder is IF you have already removed the old solder from the circuit board. It also depends on if you are soldering to a large ground plane or not.

I would use a hot air soldering gun with a small tip.

I like to think I have some soldering skills and experience, both with THT and SMD parts. I've designed a PCB with SMD electrolytics once and I'm not going to repeat that mistake anytime soon.
My suggestion would be use a soldering iron with a good tip (at least 3mm flat one, none of these useless sharp points) and just solder the sticking out bits to the pads - assuming the pads are long enough but should be. This'll give you acceptable electrical and mechanical connection, and there's no risk of overheating the cap (unless your iron is set way too cold or too hot). If it's for personal use then lead-based solder is preferable as it's easier to work with.

Check my signature link "Circuit Board Repair Manuals" to the IPC 7711B/7721B material. It is basically the same as section 5.3 "Chip Installation". (PDF document part 2) Point to point method in section 5.3.2 works best and would be the easiest. Hot air works well, but you can easily scorch surrounding areas and the component if you haven't used it before. It also wouldn't be good for the plastic base of the capacitor, probably melt it.

They are even easier to solder than through hole ones when using a proper fine tip soldering iron.

Liquid/paste flux is your best friend.

Example video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dFPohUHxa8

100% Agree on flux paste. 559 is the go to flux. I use it for phone repairs (bga is tiny!) and any electronics.

Cheers,

RoberMC wrote on 2020-02-13, 20:33:

They are even easier to solder than through hole ones when using a proper fine tip soldering iron.

I agree, but you need good equipment. SMD soldering with poor equipment is real pain.

Some tips that may be useful, from my personal experience:

-Use a good quality, adjustable soldering iron with enough power and a suitable tip. Larger tip makes it easier to heat the target, especially when it's a part of a large trace.

-If you are replacing existing components, clean the circuit board pads with a solder wick. Adding flux may help. Do not overheat the pads or use violence, they may detach. If the wick sticks to the board, do not pull it with force! Heat it instead.

-Leaded solder is easier to work with as people already have said.

junglemontana wrote on 2020-02-14, 08:45:

-If you are replacing existing components, clean the circuit board pads with a solder wick. Adding flux may help. Do not overheat the pads or use violence, they may detach. If the wick sticks to the board, do not pull it with force! Heat it instead.

-Leaded solder is easier to work with as people already have said.

Flux will help.