VOGONS


Bought these (retro) hardware today

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Reply 34300 of 52354, by imi

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Horun wrote on 2020-06-04, 23:34:

The DFI G686ipa rev B+ arrived yesterday. Looks and works great ! Included 2x 16m EDO, paper manual and backplate. Also the spare 200M/1Mb cpu seller included works just fine on my Intel Venus, think the DFI needs a BIOS update but it is already at the last version I could find (11/16/96). Sooo am happy ! ... got all that for $67. In my area that is a good buy ! Sorry for the bad pics, was dark last night and phone has issues.

that's pretty nice :3

a few random cards...

Tseng ET3000AX and Video Seven "VGA16" (V7VGA?)

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this absolutely gorgeous early version of a míro Crystal 20SD PCI, I just love how clean those traces are and how they contrast with the dark PCB
and a DEC S3 805 VLB

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two more VLB cards, Hercules Stingray with ALG2228 and a pretty CL GD5428 card

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Media Vision Jazz16 with OPL3 clone and an addon board, I presume amplifier? could not really find any info about the chip on it "UTC HM2025" TEA2025 clone?
and a Creative 3DLabs Permedia 2V

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Last edited by imi on 2020-06-05, 02:12. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 34301 of 52354, by Horun

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imi wrote on 2020-06-05, 00:36:
a few random cards... […]
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a few random cards...

Tseng ET3000AX and Video Seven "VGA16" (V7VGA?)
hardware38_71.jpg

this absolutely gorgeous early version of a míro Crystal 20SD PCI, I just love how clean those tracks are and how they contrast with the dark PCB
and a DEC S3 805 VLB
hardware38_72.jpg

two more VLB cards, Hercules Stingray with ALG2228 and a pretty CL GD5428 card
hardware38_73.jpg

Media Vision Jazz16 with OPL3 clone and an addon board, I presume amplifier? could not really find any info about the chip on it "UTC HM2025" TEA2025 clone?
and a Creative 3DLabs Permedia 2V
hardware38_74.jpg

Nice ISA cards. That Jazz16 is odd, never seen one quite like that. Sigma Designs did a bunch of Media Vision OEM stuff for Compaq, etc but always had a name and part number (different # than MV's 650-xxxx- type) . That one has no such MV or Sigma part numbering. The LS-212 is where a genuine Yamaha OPL 262 chip should be, the MV 416 & 514 are proper. The closest I could find is this pic but no headers where your add-on card is and is not same and also not IDE. Very interesting ! If I searched farther could probably find it...

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Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 34302 of 52354, by imi

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on your example the amplifier chip is already on board in the same spot pretty much, it's most probably an OEM card, there was a sticker on the back I can check again tomorrow, it escapes me right now ^^

I do wonder what that supposed "surround card" is though.

here you can see one with the board removed:
http://www.yjfy.com/images/oldhard/sound/IXW-JAZZ16_2.jpg

Reply 34303 of 52354, by Horun

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Yes think you are right and Thanks !. The Amp is off board for some reason, maybe came in a kit with amped or non amped speakers. They used a jumper bridge OR amped bridge there depending on which speakers were included (a guess). Yes the "surround part" is odd. Going to save the pics to my MV library. If you find any part number let me know please so can include them.

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 34304 of 52354, by Caluser2000

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Horun wrote on 2020-06-05, 02:03:
imi wrote on 2020-06-05, 00:36:
a few random cards... […]
Show full quote

a few random cards...

Tseng ET3000AX and Video Seven "VGA16" (V7VGA?)
hardware38_71.jpg

this absolutely gorgeous early version of a míro Crystal 20SD PCI, I just love how clean those tracks are and how they contrast with the dark PCB
and a DEC S3 805 VLB
hardware38_72.jpg

two more VLB cards, Hercules Stingray with ALG2228 and a pretty CL GD5428 card
hardware38_73.jpg

Media Vision Jazz16 with OPL3 clone and an addon board, I presume amplifier? could not really find any info about the chip on it "UTC HM2025" TEA2025 clone?
and a Creative 3DLabs Permedia 2V
hardware38_74.jpg

Nice ISA cards. That Jazz16 is odd, never seen one quite like that. Sigma Designs did a bunch of Media Vision OEM stuff for Compaq, etc but always had a name and part number (different # than MV's 650-xxxx- type) . That one has no such MV or Sigma part numbering. The LS-212 is where a genuine Yamaha OPL 262 chip should be, the MV 416 & 514 are proper. The closest I could find is this pic but no headers where your add-on card is and is not same and also not IDE. Very interesting ! If I searched farther could probably find it...

Could have been sold as part of a multi-media bundle with that Panasonic cd reader/player interface.

There's a glitch in the matrix.
A founding member of the 286 appreciation society.
Apparently 32-bit is dead and nobody likes P4s.
Of course, as always, I'm open to correction...😉

Reply 34305 of 52354, by Miphee

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I finally rectified my mistake of selling my Pentium Pro system back in 2013 and bought 2 CPUs. The 2 CPU boards are the added bonus, they come from an IBM PC Server 704. It would be cool to get the rest of it's parts and build a server with 4x Pentium Pros.

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Reply 34307 of 52354, by ildonaldo

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This is my latest buy - came as NOS, but unfortunately without the drivers/software disk.
Still have to test it with #3 of my sig.

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Box Front, VL System L.I.S. 2 indicator
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Display Front, VL System L.I.S. 2 indicator
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TNX to evasive and Doornkaat, I've probably got the neccessary drivers and software for the display 😀
... it's a bit hard to come by.

Sorry for any double-posting, but I am really, really excited about this pice of hardware 😀) it will complete my #3 which is built from one of my original PCs of that time, only the case is a new add on, but in period.
... hope the display works ...

Building my own PCs since 1991 - for my retro builds it's "no CF-disks, no Floppy emulators, no modern cases etc.", only the real and authentic stuff whenever possible.

Reply 34308 of 52354, by Salient

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Recently bought these items...

A Roland M-16DX digital mixer, to replace my M-10DX. Needed a bit of cleaning but works like a charm and came very cheap.

And, mainly BECAUSE it was almost for free, a Currah Speech 64 speech-cartridge for the C64. I already had one, but this one is in a bit nicer shape cosmetically.

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MIDI comparison website: << Wavetable.nl >>
(Always) looking for: Any Wavetable daughterboard, MIDI Module (GM/GS/XG)

Reply 34309 of 52354, by wiretap

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ildonaldo wrote on 2020-06-05, 13:34:
This is my latest buy - came as NOS, but unfortunately without the drivers/software disk. Still have to test it with #3 of my si […]
Show full quote

This is my latest buy - came as NOS, but unfortunately without the drivers/software disk.
Still have to test it with #3 of my sig

TNX to evasive and Doornkaat, I've probably got the neccessary drivers and software for the display 😀
... it's a bit hard to come by.

Sorry for any double-posting, but I am really, really excited about this pice of hardware 😀) it will complete my #3 which is built from one of my original PCs of that time, only the case is a new add on, but in period.
... hope the display works ...

Nice. I have probably 3 or 4 of those exact displays. I ran them in all my HTPC's and gaming PC. It should work.. I have had one of mine running for at least 8 years straight 🤣. If you need the original drivers, I have them as well in a ZIP file, but I can make ISO's of the mini CD's that came with them.

These displays do work with LCD Smartie and AIDA64 as well.

My Github
Circuit Board Repair Manuals

Reply 34310 of 52354, by maverick85

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dell l100 a002, 750ti and 7770

ASRock 98
Win98SE Desktop
ASRock
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0GHz
1 x 512MB 667 MHz DDR2
Soundblaster SB0100 + Altec Lansing ADA885
ATi Radeon X800XT 256MB GDDR3
1 x SATA 120GB HDD
1 x SATA DVD-RW

Reply 34311 of 52354, by Deksor

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Just found got this lot for 25€ 😁
aPV3Brtl.jpg

I never had a Cyrix 5x86 before, I can't wait to test it !

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative

Reply 34312 of 52354, by dave343

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I’ve been eyeing a nice 486 PCI based board for a long time so finally bit the bullet. There is some blue stuff around you can see... maybe corrosion? I bought it from eBay, the seller said it was tested/working, so I’ll get it installed tonight. I have a 586/133 I’ll use but for now going to build it around my AMD DX2/66. The seller stated that no ram was included, but he did put 16MB FPM in the box so that was cool of him, plus the IDE and Floppy cables were also in the box, nice bonus. Hopefully I can get all that blue crap cleaned up... it wasn’t on the sellers pictures... but he was selling a few of these boards.

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Reply 34313 of 52354, by cyclone3d

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dave343 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:03:

I’ve been eyeing a nice 486 PCI based board for a long time so finally bit the bullet. There is some blue stuff around you can see... maybe corrosion? I bought it from eBay, the seller said it was tested/working, so I’ll get it installed tonight. I have a 586/133 I’ll use but for now going to build it around my AMD DX2/66. The seller stated that no ram was included, but he did put 16MB FPM in the box so that was cool of him, plus the IDE and Floppy cables were also in the box, nice bonus. Hopefully I can get all that blue crap cleaned up... it wasn’t on the sellers pictures... but he was selling a few of these boards.

0072E643-6F7F-48DB-B37A-0A7B5D60C347.jpeg
2B6BD0F4-327E-4B67-8DAD-7DB12D7FB2DC.jpeg

The blue stuff is battery acid corrosion from the dumb barrel battery. Get rid of that battery and clean and neutralize the acid before it destroys the board. It will continue to eat away at stuff until the acid is neutralized.

You will want to either modify the board to be able to use a CR2032 battery or use an external 3x AA or 3x AAA battery holder.

Yamaha modified setupds and drivers
Yamaha XG repository
YMF7x4 Guide
Aopen AW744L II SB-LINK

Reply 34314 of 52354, by dave343

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cyclone3d wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:07:
dave343 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:03:

I’ve been eyeing a nice 486 PCI based board for a long time so finally bit the bullet. There is some blue stuff around you can see... maybe corrosion? I bought it from eBay, the seller said it was tested/working, so I’ll get it installed tonight. I have a 586/133 I’ll use but for now going to build it around my AMD DX2/66. The seller stated that no ram was included, but he did put 16MB FPM in the box so that was cool of him, plus the IDE and Floppy cables were also in the box, nice bonus. Hopefully I can get all that blue crap cleaned up... it wasn’t on the sellers pictures... but he was selling a few of these boards.

0072E643-6F7F-48DB-B37A-0A7B5D60C347.jpeg
2B6BD0F4-327E-4B67-8DAD-7DB12D7FB2DC.jpeg

The blue stuff is battery acid corrosion from the dumb barrel battery. Get rid of that battery and clean and neutralize the acid before it destroys the board. It will continue to eat away at stuff until the acid is neutralized.

You will want to either modify the board to be able to use a CR2032 battery or use an external 3x AA or 3x AAA battery holder.

Rubbing Alcohol 70%? I’ve been using that the last few minutes trying to get as much as possible off. Does the blue stuff have to be completely gone or if some remains will the alcohol at least neutralize it? I’m going to replace the battery with a 3x 1.2V Nicad Battery pack, I’ve done the same on another 486 board I have and it works awesome.

Reply 34315 of 52354, by imi

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it's funny, because the battery corrosion is not actually from "acid" it's quite to opposite, it's very basic, you neutralize it by adding actual acid to it, confusing at first, I know ^^
white vinegar is a go to method as it's easily available and not too harsh, the two are very reactive with each other, so you will eventually see bubbling and fizzing happening.
after that you clean it thouroughly with alcohol to clean any residue off otherwise the acid might cause corrosion too.

Last edited by imi on 2020-06-05, 20:25. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 34316 of 52354, by dave343

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imi wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:16:

it's funny, because the battery corrosion is not actually from "acid" it's quite to opposite, it's very basic, you neutralize it by adding actual acid to it, confusing at first, I know ^^
white vinegar is a go to method as it's easily available and not too harsh, after that you clean it thouroughly with alcohol to clean any residue off otherwise the acid might cause corrosion too.

Well, now I’m afraid I may have wasted time and $... I flipped the board over and it looks like the blue stuff went through all the tiny circuit lead holes. I’ll test it later tonight, but the damage looks pretty bad... I don’t understand how the guy could say they are new old stock, and tested working. You’d think he would at least try to clean the board up.

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Reply 34317 of 52354, by Deksor

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Well it can be new old stock, working, and still have a failing battery (some batteries still work even when they start leaking), and the traces may not be eaten enough by the basic liquid to be entirely cut.

This is the reason why I'd take DALLAS batteries over any varta battery. You never really see the end of battery corrosion ...

Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative

Reply 34318 of 52354, by imi

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dave343 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:23:

Well, now I’m afraid I may have wasted time and $... I flipped the board over and it looks like the blue stuff went through all the tiny circuit lead holes. I’ll test it later tonight, but the damage looks pretty bad... I don’t understand how the guy could say they are new old stock, and tested working. You’d think he would at least try to clean the board up.

well they might be new old stock, those batteries just leak by themselves after a while, and it might even still work like that.

Reply 34319 of 52354, by dave343

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The traces on the back looks bad, but I guess maybe, hopefully, it still works.

Would it do any good to submerge that part of the board in vinegar or alcohol in leu of just trying to get what I can see off with que tips?