Mvickers03 wrote on 2020-12-16, 19:37:

Sounds like you will get this running with a full bank, you don't seem to have cleaned up the leakage enough.

That battery will continue to damage things until you remove it, The acid literally emanates from the battery until it's removed.

I removed the battery, I just layed it upon the board to have it on the photo! I will upload a photo tomorrow! 😀

Neolyum wrote on 2020-12-16, 22:04:

I removed the battery, I just layed it upon the board to have it on the photo! I will upload a photo tomorrow! 😀

Good man! I'm rooting for ya!

My SIMM Modules finally arrived, and the 3 beeps are gone!
Now I get 6. 🤣
On the website linked on site 1 it says, that this is an A20 error and that it could be a problem with the keyboard controller. Do you have more information or suggestions how to fix it?

And another question: Do I have any chance to get an USB Keyboard working using a USB->PS2 and a PS2->DIN adapter? The Keyboard is quite old and it works using the ps2 adapter on another computer.

You could try to remove the Keyboard Controller and see what changes.

Most likely there is some corrosion from the battery in that area. Post some better pictures with the keyboard controller removed after cleaning...

that changed quite a bit, my monitor instantly got a signal. But it is a black screen, nothing more.

EDIT: first photo was try 2! This is not black at least 🤣

Doesnt look that bad...did you clean with vinegar and water?

You need to check continuity on all traces that look corroded.

Maybe its just related to the corroded socket...

Predator99 wrote on 2020-12-28, 11:03:

Doesnt look that bad...did you clean with vinegar and water?

You need to check continuity on all traces that look corroded.

Maybe its just related to the corroded socket...

I cleaned it with iso alc and vinegar. I will try to clean it again as the battery now is removed.

How do I test the traces? Do I test it using a multi meter in the setting for measuring resistance?

that does indeed not look good 😒
how can i fix this?

EDIT: i switched the Mono/colour jumper to monochrome, now I have a beautiful blinking cursor, but nothing more..
Edit2: another try just gave me that green screen again, another one the black screen, the jumper didn't seem to make a difference 😒

That doesnt look too bad.

The long trace next to the battery seems to be interrupted?

You can check with your multimeter (resistance). Most have a "beep" mode, you can hear a beep when a connection is detected.,

Predator99 wrote on 2020-12-28, 12:39:

That doesnt look too bad.

The long trace next to the battery seems to be interrupted?

You can check with your multimeter (resistance). Most have a "beep" mode, you can hear a beep when a connection is detected.,

I tried the connection of the part of the keyboard bios socket where I believe the trace begins and some pins of the bios, and there is a connection! I'm not sure if I have done everything correctely though..

What can I do to test whats wrong? I did not get the lovely cursor a second time 😒

Do you have the memory in the correct sockets? I have a DX DXL 40 motherboard and I have to populate the 4 outside sockets first or I just get the blinking cursor.

What's the best way to loosen that hot glue where the battery used to be? Isopropyl? I have the same lump on my board.

White vinegar for neutralization of acid, then alcohol to clean everything up.

You should test if there is a connection to all pins on the socket...

Do you have another known working keyboard BIOS to test?

Try another slot for the VGA or another card.

For further diagnosis you need a POST card.

Would this be a good card to buy?
https://www.amazon.de/LEAGY-4-stellige-ISA-PC … e/dp/B07B65PBR2

And I do not have another Keyboard BIOS, this is the only mainboard I have 🙁

and one other thing: I have a CT2890 Soundcard, and there are pins labeled as IDE Interface, am I correct assuming I can connect drives there? 😁 was it normal to have such interfaces on cards that don't have anything to do with that interface? 😁 I supposed for IDE I needed to buy another card dedicated for IDE 🤔

Yes, the POST card is OK. The price considering local shipment is OK, too.

IDE interface on the soundcard is intended for CDROM only. Connecting a hard drive is possible but difficult.

Let me know if you need a controller once your board is working, I have a box full of these...

Predator99 wrote on 2021-01-01, 12:38:

Yes, the POST card is OK. The price considering local shipment is OK, too.

IDE interface on the soundcard is intended for CDROM only. Connecting a hard drive is possible but difficult.

Let me know if you need a controller once your board is working, I have a box full of these...

OK, card is arriving monday 😀 Propably dumb question; on the card there is a label "rear ->" to help orienting the card .. is rear pointing to the CPU side of the board ? 🤣

Ah ok, I have a IDE controller card already, but thank you for the offer! 😀

Rear is back of the PC. Components look in the same dirction as on all other ISA-cards.

Neolyum wrote on 2021-01-01, 12:57:

OK, card is arriving monday 😀 Propably dumb question; on the card there is a label "rear ->" to help orienting the card .. is rear pointing to the CPU side of the board ? 🤣

Ah ok, I have a IDE controller card already, but thank you for the offer! 😀

I *think* rear means the rear/backside of the PC, as opposed to the frontside.
That being said, better double check!
I *believe* in an AT PC case my PCI/ISA post card faces "down" (if inserted in an ISA/AT sloth) with the seven segment display.

You can check photos of your card online.
Also, you can check the power traces or were the blocking caps are.
Along with a diagram of the ISA slot they help you figuring out the card orientation.

Edit : Please be careful. Old pure ISA debug cards may face "upwards" with the display.
Here's a video of mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXE51QGmkg0
Anyway, a PCI/ISA card may face downwards in ISA, because it focuses on PCI. So please double check. 😀

Predator99 wrote on 2021-01-01, 13:19:

Rear is back of the PC. Components look in the same dirction as on all other ISA-cards.

Your answer is completely correct. Forget about the "rear" marking - the uncertainty about "does it point to the rear end of the card, which is the opposite side of where the slot cover would be" or "does it point to the rear end of the PC, i.e. the slot covers" is just too stressful.

The second part of your answer is what we should do instead: Orient the card the same way as any other ISA card if we put it into an ISA slot or orient the card the same way as any other PCI card if we put it into a PCI slot. This is easy to keep in mind, hard to get wrong, and always provides a clear unique answer.

And a final warning: We recently had a thread here on VOGONs where someone got a cheap clone of that cheap POST card, that was a very loose fit in the ISA slot, and shorted the 12V supply line to some logic pin, killing the mainboard the card was put into. In retrospect, it turned out that the ISA interface on that card wouldn't have worked even if it were aligned correctly into the slot. So if you have a similar card and it doesn't slide into one fixed position because the ISA card edge is to short to touch both ends of the slot: Don't put loosely fitting POST cards into ISA slots at all!

EDIT: This is the thread: Troubles between a PCI/ISA POST card and my Asus P55T2P4-C motherboard

As mentioned above that trace near the batter going from the KB Controller to near the ISA slots does look to have been eaten through by the leakage. This can be fixed by soldering a jump wire. But you need to check it to see if it is connected. If it were me, I'd probably desolder the KB Connector, KB Controller socket, and clean a little better, and inspect it a bit further. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace those either.

Are you getting any beep codes when connecting a speaker or buzzer to the speaker header?