The modification to have a Tualatin run in a Coppermine board is more than just insulating three pins.

See the picture

from the South Korean eBay seller.

Also one cap is damaged.

I am not an expert but I think it should look like this:

- Red pins must be isolated
- Blue pin (AK26) must be connected with the red one (AK4)
- Green pins must be connected together.

The Serpent Rider wrote on 2021-05-02, 16:24:

Also one cap is damaged.

Which one?

VooDooMan wrote on 2021-05-02, 21:06:

I am not an expert but I think it should look like this: https://i.imgur.com/yr0j1f7.jpg […]
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I am not an expert but I think it should look like this:

- Red pins must be isolated
- Blue pin (AK26) must be connected with the red one (AK4)
- Green pins must be connected together.

So difficult, lot more than simply cutting three pins.

Anyway I read in other site that conjunction between pins wasn't necessary, expecially AK4 to AK26, if you cut those three pins like me and other users, you simply can't connect one of these pins with others, simply because it is not phisically present!

Anyway I read to cut these pins in an article that was explaining the fact that these three pins were responsibile to check the CPU and doens't make it work on a Coppermine board. They told that cutting these three pins it should work. For me not.

I was expecting a "simply"work, probably I will throw away this Tualatin and remain with my normal P3 1GHZ, if I have no more try to do.

Using enamel wire is easier than soldering to the CPU. This is how I ran Tualatins on my Epox dual S370 board. Just strip enough enamel from each end of the wire and place into the socket. Then install the CPU with the already insulated/cut pins.

paradigital wrote on 2021-05-03, 08:23:

Using enamel wire is easier than soldering to the CPU. This is how I ran Tualatins on my Epox dual S370 board. Just strip enough enamel from each end of the wire and place into the socket. Then install the CPU with the already insulated/cut pins.

Thanks a lot.

I will do.

Anyway, like said before, do you think this capacitor damaged can cause the processor to don't work?

I attach the image.

OH MY GOD!

Dear friend, I manage to make it work!!!

I really don't know why it works, cause when I was beginning to make the soldering work I was completely convinced that I will do a mess.

Infact I soldered not so good, but I made attention to not short-circuit other pins. And all seems fine.

One pin I put so much soldering material that created a little ball, and I don't know why CPU entered in socket however.

So i decided to try to power on and with my incredibile surprise, IT WORKED!

I put the attachment photos,

So I can say that a P3-S Tualatin 1266 work in a ASUS CUV266 with Apollo266 chipset, cutting down three pins, and connecting AK4-AN11 and AK36-AM34.

Now I will try a little overclock, let's see.

Sweet! Glad to see you got it working.

Wonderful!

Another thrilled traveller on the Tualatin train 😀.

flupke11 wrote on 2021-05-07, 15:27:

Wonderful!

Another thrilled traveller on the Tualatin train 😀.

Ouuuu yessssss!!!

I am so happy and I really didn't hope to make it work!

Wow!

From a p3 to a p3-s double cache step!

Well done! You see, I told you it's going to work 😉

Good luck with overclocking! It you have a good batch of SL6BX it will go up till 166 MHz easily even without overvolting the CPU 😀

VooDooMan wrote on 2021-05-08, 11:09:

Well done! You see, I told you it's going to work 😉

Good luck with overclocking! It you have a good batch of SL6BX it will go up till 166 MHz easily even without overvolting the CPU 😀

Ehehhehe you told me before yes, but you didn't told me that I have to solder two couple of pins...

Anyway I did it! I don't know how I manage to do!!!

I'm so happy now!

I have a real complicate system cause I have four PCI card, two of them are Voodoo2 for the SLI.

So I think I will not reach a lot of FSB frequencies, but at the moment the system seems stable at 159mhz FSB.

And the Tualatin runs at about 1,5ghz!