VOGONS


Reply 20 of 26, by ChrisK

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member
9646gt wrote on 2025-05-06, 12:51:
ChrisK wrote on 2023-01-16, 10:59:
Didn't know there was one. Thanks! :D […]
Show full quote
Sphere478 wrote on 2023-01-14, 21:20:

Very nice job. That looks amazing! 😀

I added your project to the vrm projects thread. 😀

Re: vrm module project thread roundup, share ideas, make new designs

Didn't know there was one. Thanks! 😁

Jo22 wrote on 2023-01-14, 22:15:

I have an aversion against switching components, mildly said.
I rather prefer calm, less efficient linear components.

Congratulations for your success, though. 🙂👍

I don't like modifying old hardware and making it non-original in general.
But that one sucked. It got extremely hot and beeing a THT part that was "pressed" against the PCB with a (at the point I bought the card missing) screw wasn't the perfect solution.
The thermal paste between the heatsink and the PCB began to spread as soon as it got on temperature. Wasn't nice at all.
There are better solutions, e.g. choosing a SMT LDO just like Diamond did on their V550 PCI:
https://www.vgamuseum.info/index.php/componen … nvidia-riva-tnt
So, my solution may be reasonable for THT LDOs only.

Thanks for the like 😀

would the EZ1585CM seen on that V550 PCI be a big reduction in heat compared to the one currently on my card which I think (having to reference blurry eBay purchase pic since I am at work) is aLX5684?

No because both are linear voltage regulators, basically a "resistance based voltage reducer", so both generate the same amount of heat.

RetroPC: K6-III+/400ATZ @6x83@1.7V / CT-5SIM / 2x 64M SDR / 40G HDD / RIVA TNT / V2 SLI / CT4520
ModernPC: Phenom II 910e @ 3GHz / ALiveDual-eSATA2 / 4x 2GB DDR-II / 512G SSD / 750G HDD / RX470

Reply 21 of 26, by 9646gt

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member
ChrisK wrote on 2025-05-08, 08:03:
So here's the BOM: […]
Show full quote

So here's the BOM:

For the PCB I can use a registered letter, that costs 5.50 EUR, or a normal letter, that's 1.8 €. But I don't know how critical it is when there's some FR4 inside a letter for you in the US...
The PCB itself you can have for free.

If you want to order the PCB yourself, prices at for example jlcpcb.com currently are around 2.10 USD (leaded) or 3.20 USD (lead-free) + shipping/taxes etc. for 5pcs.

thank you, I ordered the parts! I would gladly pay you to send off the PCB so I don't have to order 5 of them and pay more in shipping than for the product haha. If you'd like to PM me your PayPal info or however you prefer I pay I will gladly get it sent over to you!

Reply 22 of 26, by ChrisK

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member

PM sent.

RetroPC: K6-III+/400ATZ @6x83@1.7V / CT-5SIM / 2x 64M SDR / 40G HDD / RIVA TNT / V2 SLI / CT4520
ModernPC: Phenom II 910e @ 3GHz / ALiveDual-eSATA2 / 4x 2GB DDR-II / 512G SSD / 750G HDD / RX470

Reply 23 of 26, by momaka

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

Just a thought here for the readers: instead of building your own DC-DC boards / modules, has anyone considered one of the already pre-made adjustable DC-DC modules on Ebay, AliExp. Amazon, and the like? Most of these are quite cheap and come pre-built already. All that one has to do is make sure to pick one that provides adequate current (can be guessed more or less based on the size of the heatsink of the video card and the voltage differential of the old regulator - i.e. what comes in on V_in on the old regulator and what's the V_out) and then dial in the correct voltage before using the module on the board.

Reply 24 of 26, by Ozzuneoj

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t
momaka wrote on 2025-05-14, 15:45:

Just a thought here for the readers: instead of building your own DC-DC boards / modules, has anyone considered one of the already pre-made adjustable DC-DC modules on Ebay, AliExp. Amazon, and the like? Most of these are quite cheap and come pre-built already. All that one has to do is make sure to pick one that provides adequate current (can be guessed more or less based on the size of the heatsink of the video card and the voltage differential of the old regulator - i.e. what comes in on V_in on the old regulator and what's the V_out) and then dial in the correct voltage before using the module on the board.

Man, why didn't I think of this? Yeah, I'd love to know if these are viable and if 3A is enough.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806057827680.html

Less than $7 US for 10x 5v-30v to 3.3v converters on 18x13mm boards sounds great. The location of the contacts isn't really ideal though.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 25 of 26, by darry

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++
momaka wrote on 2025-05-14, 15:45:

Just a thought here for the readers: instead of building your own DC-DC boards / modules, has anyone considered one of the already pre-made adjustable DC-DC modules on Ebay, AliExp. Amazon, and the like? Most of these are quite cheap and come pre-built already. All that one has to do is make sure to pick one that provides adequate current (can be guessed more or less based on the size of the heatsink of the video card and the voltage differential of the old regulator - i.e. what comes in on V_in on the old regulator and what's the V_out) and then dial in the correct voltage before using the module on the board.

I would not trust the ripple and noise characteristics without having tested/measured them under load.

They could be crappy designs, very optimistically specced, using counterfeit/relabeled/factory reject regulator ICs, etc.

Reply 26 of 26, by momaka

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie
darry wrote on 2025-05-14, 21:55:

I would not trust the ripple and noise characteristics without having tested/measured them under load.

They could be crappy designs, very optimistically specced, using counterfeit/relabeled/factory reject regulator ICs, etc.

I agree, and that's probably the case with majority of any pre-built modules out there from the China malls. Still, not all of them are over-rated / over-specced. In some cases, it's just a matter of how the info in the description is presented - i.e. I've seen a few of these modules rated for 20 Amps, but if you looked more careful into the description, that was really only peak current, and the real (constant) output was more along the lines of 10-15 Amps. Also, another thing is that no matter which module one gets, if it has electrolytic caps, they will probably need to be replaced right from the start with higher quality ones. The usually cheapo caps used on these things should not be expected to last. In the case of one amplifier module I have, the 35V-rated caps are probably re-labeled, because they get awfully leaky when going over 30V. So my guess is they are 25V caps cheaply re-labeled as 35V caps. Apart from that and having to up-spec the output filter polypropylene caps a little, the module does work as expected and delivers the rated output power without distortion or getting hot.
I also have a bunch of cheap Blutooth to analog audio adapters, and these work exactly as advertised. So not all stuff out of the China malls are bad / over-specced. 😀

The one thing I would NOT suggest for anyone to buy from there though, are high-power BJTs - all of them are going to be dodgy counterfeits with very questionable ratings. Case in point: I bought 10x E13009 transistors for PSU repairs... and I knew by the low(ish) price that they will be dodgy. I expected them to perform a rating or so lower - i.e. around that of E13007 BJTs. But they didn't. Not even close. 🤣 More like under-rated E13003's with heatsinks or over-rated E13005's. Just terrible. I can still use them... but for much lower power rated applications.
....
....
So yes, you do bring a very valid point here. It will probably take for someone to play around with a few of these regulator modules to determine if there is one (or more) that stands out among the others for this kind of use / application. Other than that, I figured I'd mention these modules, as it still might be an easier option for people with less electronics knowledge to attempt a mod like this, because at least they don't have to deal with building an entire board from scratch.

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2025-05-14, 16:06:

Man, why didn't I think of this? Yeah, I'd love to know if these are viable and if 3A is enough.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806057827680.html

Less than $7 US for 10x 5v-30v to 3.3v converters on 18x13mm boards sounds great. The location of the contacts isn't really ideal though.

Yeah, that another thing with pre-built solutions: the contact / solder points to install on the board may not be in the most optimal place, unlike a custom design, where you can put things exactly where you want so you have less wires / mess.

As for weather 3A would be enough... I'd say pick something with twice the current rating, just to be safe, for the reasons darry mentioned above.
From what I've looked at, the price difference isn't that big between the lower and the higher rated current models.