VOGONS


Reply 20 of 33, by ChrisK

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9646gt wrote on 2025-05-06, 12:51:
ChrisK wrote on 2023-01-16, 10:59:
Didn't know there was one. Thanks! :D […]
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Sphere478 wrote on 2023-01-14, 21:20:

Very nice job. That looks amazing! 😀

I added your project to the vrm projects thread. 😀

Re: vrm module project thread roundup, share ideas, make new designs

Didn't know there was one. Thanks! 😁

Jo22 wrote on 2023-01-14, 22:15:

I have an aversion against switching components, mildly said.
I rather prefer calm, less efficient linear components.

Congratulations for your success, though. 🙂👍

I don't like modifying old hardware and making it non-original in general.
But that one sucked. It got extremely hot and beeing a THT part that was "pressed" against the PCB with a (at the point I bought the card missing) screw wasn't the perfect solution.
The thermal paste between the heatsink and the PCB began to spread as soon as it got on temperature. Wasn't nice at all.
There are better solutions, e.g. choosing a SMT LDO just like Diamond did on their V550 PCI:
https://www.vgamuseum.info/index.php/componen … nvidia-riva-tnt
So, my solution may be reasonable for THT LDOs only.

Thanks for the like 😀

would the EZ1585CM seen on that V550 PCI be a big reduction in heat compared to the one currently on my card which I think (having to reference blurry eBay purchase pic since I am at work) is aLX5684?

No because both are linear voltage regulators, basically a "resistance based voltage reducer", so both generate the same amount of heat.

RetroPC: K6-III+/400ATZ @6x83@1.7V / CT-5SIM / 2x 64M SDR / 40G HDD / RIVA TNT / V2 SLI / CT4520
ModernPC: Phenom II 910e @ 3GHz / ALiveDual-eSATA2 / 4x 2GB DDR-II / 512G SSD / 750G HDD / RX470

Reply 21 of 33, by 9646gt

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ChrisK wrote on 2025-05-08, 08:03:
So here's the BOM: […]
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So here's the BOM:

For the PCB I can use a registered letter, that costs 5.50 EUR, or a normal letter, that's 1.8 €. But I don't know how critical it is when there's some FR4 inside a letter for you in the US...
The PCB itself you can have for free.

If you want to order the PCB yourself, prices at for example jlcpcb.com currently are around 2.10 USD (leaded) or 3.20 USD (lead-free) + shipping/taxes etc. for 5pcs.

thank you, I ordered the parts! I would gladly pay you to send off the PCB so I don't have to order 5 of them and pay more in shipping than for the product haha. If you'd like to PM me your PayPal info or however you prefer I pay I will gladly get it sent over to you!

Reply 22 of 33, by ChrisK

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PM sent.

RetroPC: K6-III+/400ATZ @6x83@1.7V / CT-5SIM / 2x 64M SDR / 40G HDD / RIVA TNT / V2 SLI / CT4520
ModernPC: Phenom II 910e @ 3GHz / ALiveDual-eSATA2 / 4x 2GB DDR-II / 512G SSD / 750G HDD / RX470

Reply 23 of 33, by momaka

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Just a thought here for the readers: instead of building your own DC-DC boards / modules, has anyone considered one of the already pre-made adjustable DC-DC modules on Ebay, AliExp. Amazon, and the like? Most of these are quite cheap and come pre-built already. All that one has to do is make sure to pick one that provides adequate current (can be guessed more or less based on the size of the heatsink of the video card and the voltage differential of the old regulator - i.e. what comes in on V_in on the old regulator and what's the V_out) and then dial in the correct voltage before using the module on the board.

Reply 24 of 33, by Ozzuneoj

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momaka wrote on 2025-05-14, 15:45:

Just a thought here for the readers: instead of building your own DC-DC boards / modules, has anyone considered one of the already pre-made adjustable DC-DC modules on Ebay, AliExp. Amazon, and the like? Most of these are quite cheap and come pre-built already. All that one has to do is make sure to pick one that provides adequate current (can be guessed more or less based on the size of the heatsink of the video card and the voltage differential of the old regulator - i.e. what comes in on V_in on the old regulator and what's the V_out) and then dial in the correct voltage before using the module on the board.

Man, why didn't I think of this? Yeah, I'd love to know if these are viable and if 3A is enough.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806057827680.html

Less than $7 US for 10x 5v-30v to 3.3v converters on 18x13mm boards sounds great. The location of the contacts isn't really ideal though.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 25 of 33, by darry

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momaka wrote on 2025-05-14, 15:45:

Just a thought here for the readers: instead of building your own DC-DC boards / modules, has anyone considered one of the already pre-made adjustable DC-DC modules on Ebay, AliExp. Amazon, and the like? Most of these are quite cheap and come pre-built already. All that one has to do is make sure to pick one that provides adequate current (can be guessed more or less based on the size of the heatsink of the video card and the voltage differential of the old regulator - i.e. what comes in on V_in on the old regulator and what's the V_out) and then dial in the correct voltage before using the module on the board.

I would not trust the ripple and noise characteristics without having tested/measured them under load.

They could be crappy designs, very optimistically specced, using counterfeit/relabeled/factory reject regulator ICs, etc.

Reply 26 of 33, by momaka

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darry wrote on 2025-05-14, 21:55:

I would not trust the ripple and noise characteristics without having tested/measured them under load.

They could be crappy designs, very optimistically specced, using counterfeit/relabeled/factory reject regulator ICs, etc.

I agree, and that's probably the case with majority of any pre-built modules out there from the China malls. Still, not all of them are over-rated / over-specced. In some cases, it's just a matter of how the info in the description is presented - i.e. I've seen a few of these modules rated for 20 Amps, but if you looked more careful into the description, that was really only peak current, and the real (constant) output was more along the lines of 10-15 Amps. Also, another thing is that no matter which module one gets, if it has electrolytic caps, they will probably need to be replaced right from the start with higher quality ones. The usually cheapo caps used on these things should not be expected to last. In the case of one amplifier module I have, the 35V-rated caps are probably re-labeled, because they get awfully leaky when going over 30V. So my guess is they are 25V caps cheaply re-labeled as 35V caps. Apart from that and having to up-spec the output filter polypropylene caps a little, the module does work as expected and delivers the rated output power without distortion or getting hot.
I also have a bunch of cheap Blutooth to analog audio adapters, and these work exactly as advertised. So not all stuff out of the China malls are bad / over-specced. 😀

The one thing I would NOT suggest for anyone to buy from there though, are high-power BJTs - all of them are going to be dodgy counterfeits with very questionable ratings. Case in point: I bought 10x E13009 transistors for PSU repairs... and I knew by the low(ish) price that they will be dodgy. I expected them to perform a rating or so lower - i.e. around that of E13007 BJTs. But they didn't. Not even close. 🤣 More like under-rated E13003's with heatsinks or over-rated E13005's. Just terrible. I can still use them... but for much lower power rated applications.
....
....
So yes, you do bring a very valid point here. It will probably take for someone to play around with a few of these regulator modules to determine if there is one (or more) that stands out among the others for this kind of use / application. Other than that, I figured I'd mention these modules, as it still might be an easier option for people with less electronics knowledge to attempt a mod like this, because at least they don't have to deal with building an entire board from scratch.

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2025-05-14, 16:06:

Man, why didn't I think of this? Yeah, I'd love to know if these are viable and if 3A is enough.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806057827680.html

Less than $7 US for 10x 5v-30v to 3.3v converters on 18x13mm boards sounds great. The location of the contacts isn't really ideal though.

Yeah, that another thing with pre-built solutions: the contact / solder points to install on the board may not be in the most optimal place, unlike a custom design, where you can put things exactly where you want so you have less wires / mess.

As for weather 3A would be enough... I'd say pick something with twice the current rating, just to be safe, for the reasons darry mentioned above.
From what I've looked at, the price difference isn't that big between the lower and the higher rated current models.

Reply 27 of 33, by altarofmelektaus

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I ordered a couple PCBs and I'm gonna put one together, will let you know how it goes. Got a Voodoo3 3000 PCI in really good condition that I'd like to keep that way. Thank you for sharing!

Reply 28 of 33, by altarofmelektaus

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Forgot to follow up. This is a complete lifesaver of a solution for V3 PCIs and I highly recommend it to anyone who isn't confident enough just tapping into the 3.3V from the PSU, or the cheap pre-built solutions. Mine didn't exactly fit, but that's fine as I was able to make it work by putting some insulating/padding material underneath. I'm not good with CAD or whatever term you call PCB designing, so I just followed the original design and got it printed from JLCPCB. Temps dropped from 75C to 35C within the first minute of a cold boot.

Anyone interested in doing this mod, I have spare PCBs that I won't need. Let me know if you're interested, and I'll send you one free if you pay shipping.

Reply 29 of 33, by ChrisK

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Good job!

RetroPC: K6-III+/400ATZ @6x83@1.7V / CT-5SIM / 2x 64M SDR / 40G HDD / RIVA TNT / V2 SLI / CT4520
ModernPC: Phenom II 910e @ 3GHz / ALiveDual-eSATA2 / 4x 2GB DDR-II / 512G SSD / 750G HDD / RX470

Reply 30 of 33, by Trashbytes

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altarofmelektaus wrote on 2025-07-02, 10:31:

Forgot to follow up. This is a complete lifesaver of a solution for V3 PCIs and I highly recommend it to anyone who isn't confident enough just tapping into the 3.3V from the PSU, or the cheap pre-built solutions. Mine didn't exactly fit, but that's fine as I was able to make it work by putting some insulating/padding material underneath. I'm not good with CAD or whatever term you call PCB designing, so I just followed the original design and got it printed from JLCPCB. Temps dropped from 75C to 35C within the first minute of a cold boot.

Anyone interested in doing this mod, I have spare PCBs that I won't need. Let me know if you're interested, and I'll send you one free if you pay shipping.

I have that exact same card here that is dead ...like dead to the point its not even recognized by the BIOS as being present in the system...The card is getting power but I wonder if one of these modules will fix the no detect problem.

Have tried a number of tools now to see if it is able to be detected but nada, makes me wonder if the regulator hasn't sent too much voltage and nixed the core. Since even dead cards should still be detected on the PCI bus so long as they are getting power.

Reply 31 of 33, by momaka

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Trashbytes wrote on 2025-07-02, 11:49:

I have that exact same card here that is dead ...like dead to the point its not even recognized by the BIOS as being present in the system...The card is getting power but I wonder if one of these modules will fix the no detect problem.

Have tried a number of tools now to see if it is able to be detected but nada, makes me wonder if the regulator hasn't sent too much voltage and nixed the core.

Unlikely for that to have happened.
For starters, old cores are pretty tough to withstanding voltage spikes.
But more importantly, if the linear reg on the card ever let a large voltage spike through, that would cause a tremendous current draw from the regulator, burning it out right away and then likely triggering the PSU short-circuit protection... or just burned the voltage reg right off the board. Either way, you would have smelled it and/or seen it.
Easiest way to know if the voltage reg on your card is running is to solder some wires to its input and output pins and measure the voltage on those to see if it's actually working. (Or you could do it directly on the voltage reg pins... but I usually don't suggest is, because if you slip with your MM probes and short out the reg pins, you can surely cause damage this way.) The input should be either 3.3V or 5V (I'm not familiar with these cards) and the output whatever voltage the GPU core uses. Same can be done for the RAM voltage reg.

That aside, I suspect you have a bad contact on the GPU chip somewhere, like these VooDoo cards are often known for.

Reply 32 of 33, by Trashbytes

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momaka wrote on 2025-07-08, 18:18:
Unlikely for that to have happened. For starters, old cores are pretty tough to withstanding voltage spikes. But more importantl […]
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Trashbytes wrote on 2025-07-02, 11:49:

I have that exact same card here that is dead ...like dead to the point its not even recognized by the BIOS as being present in the system...The card is getting power but I wonder if one of these modules will fix the no detect problem.

Have tried a number of tools now to see if it is able to be detected but nada, makes me wonder if the regulator hasn't sent too much voltage and nixed the core.

Unlikely for that to have happened.
For starters, old cores are pretty tough to withstanding voltage spikes.
But more importantly, if the linear reg on the card ever let a large voltage spike through, that would cause a tremendous current draw from the regulator, burning it out right away and then likely triggering the PSU short-circuit protection... or just burned the voltage reg right off the board. Either way, you would have smelled it and/or seen it.
Easiest way to know if the voltage reg on your card is running is to solder some wires to its input and output pins and measure the voltage on those to see if it's actually working. (Or you could do it directly on the voltage reg pins... but I usually don't suggest is, because if you slip with your MM probes and short out the reg pins, you can surely cause damage this way.) The input should be either 3.3V or 5V (I'm not familiar with these cards) and the output whatever voltage the GPU core uses. Same can be done for the RAM voltage reg.

That aside, I suspect you have a bad contact on the GPU chip somewhere, like these VooDoo cards are often known for.

There is no burn damage on this card, all components looks perfectly fine, I did let it run a little bit longer while testing the regulators and the core/cooler gets hot so the card is getting power, not sure how to test for cracked BGA balls, but right now I dont have anything to lose with this card I'm going to remove its cooler and reflow the BGA with my hot air gun and some flux. Might reflow the pins on the Bios and ram ICs while im at it with some new solder and check for any dry joints.

I really need to get myself an IR/Thermal camera.

* I know I know the reflow thing isnt exactly liked here, but if it improves how this card functions I will at the very least have an idea what wrong with it.

Reply 33 of 33, by Trashbytes

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An Update .. Took the cooler off the Voodoo3 and .. the core is .. black as in burnt in the upper right region, like how ICs get when they get far too much voltage or get far too hot.

So another card for the spares box, in case I need replacement parts for the Evilking card which does work.