aspiringnobody wrote on Today, 04:18:

My upgraded V2 found its forever home today!

The attachment IMG_7765.jpeg is no longer available

Nice! What are the specs?

I was going to try fixing up some 40 year old PCB from a car, but there is something weird about it. Unsoldering a component released some unusually unpleasant fumes, and I found that the old solder joints repelled any attempt to add new solder which would just ball up and roll away. Can't remember having this problem before.

Recapped this VIBRA16 sound card.

Asus A6R: I didn't think it would be such a great retro, I liked it, it's good that my friend called to ask if it was necessary, or he would throw it away.
I plugged it into the test bench monitor via DSub, so it fits FHD as needed, and now fulltrack/3DM99:

Under DOS I knew it would bite:

SBEmu - sound is also ok:

I haven't tried the LPT and PCMCIA ports. SD reader ok. DVDRW ok - IDE interface.
Perfect working and nice condition, good thing it didn't end up in the trash.

bakemono wrote on Today, 07:51:

I was going to try fixing up some 40 year old PCB from a car, but there is something weird about it. Unsoldering a component released some unusually unpleasant fumes, and I found that the old solder joints repelled any attempt to add new solder which would just ball up and roll away. Can't remember having this problem before.

I am gonna guess the board is maybe a phenolic type which when overheated gets a bit formaldehyde-y. Then the solder might be a low tin, maybe even silver solder which is higher temperature and doesn't form tin whiskers in low temperatures. Might have to look out SAE or military specs for solder from that era. I remember also that GM somehow managed to make some PCBs in the late 80s that had steel leads on some components and steel bus bars, some of which were rivetted and welded to each other rather than soldered. So test with magnet that you're not trying to desolder a weld, and if it's broke, you may need a different flux to put solder on it, cooking oil may work.