Hmm I have a Corsair 750M, maybe the parts are same or close enough to get an idea once you post pictures...

Horun wrote on 2024-11-14, 03:24:

Hmm I have a Corsair 750M, maybe the parts are same or close enough to get an idea once you post pictures...

Yes I hope so🤞

For the images, I have to take it out, and I make some of the affected area, from memory I remember that it was an additional card, not the main card.

Images from the inside, the detached component is located in one of the pairs of slips, near the large toroidal winding, in the secondary, and is initialed Q26, both in this card and in the twin one.

Unfortunately the previous owner has invalidated the 7-year warranty, I don't know the reason, however it's between my paws 🐾 since 02/2015.

I noticed that the card in which the SMD was removed, should be identical to the one next to it, it should be twin cards 👯‍♀️, if it really is, in the other card I read on the component: 060N03L

I have to check what 😨 is (?)

But before ordering more replacements, I have to check if the others that are still ⚓️ soldered, are not short, the one removed I remember yes, in short I should check, but I think I'm on the right track, and if there are no further problems, the solution could be right in that additional slip, look for a new one, maybe it would be to find it (?) But if the fault is only one or two SMDs (maybe diodes?), replacing them could solve the problem, and I would have recovered a nice ATX power supply.

After a quick search 🔍, I identified the component as an N-channel mosfet, I found a pdf with all the descriptions, in short there is more info than you need, I looked if they were on sale, and there are some very convenient ones, but the arrival time is a bit long, I'll see if I can find some that have a faster shipment, maybe 🤔 they are quite common, and they can be found in some scrap cards, but since the power supply is practically new, I would avoid welding something recovery, it could not last long, because maybe it had been used a lot.

I looked for spare parts for sale, with shipping without too long waits, unfortunately it's not worth it, they cost more and adding shipping 📦, the final cost is a bit too much for me, the cheap alternative is to order them in Asia, usually they arrive in about a month, in short I order them soon, and when the new ones arrive, I change them.

In the meantime, I will check the others and try to find out if the short is only in the mosfet (or in the Mosfets), or if there is something else that causes the failure in the Mosfet.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2024-11-14, 14:36:

I noticed that the card in which the SMD was removed, should be identical to the one next to it, it should be twin cards 👯‍♀️, if it really is, in the other card I read on the component: 060N03L

Those twin daughterboards are DC-DC modules (buck regulator type) - one for the 3.3V rail and one for the 5V rail.
They will have N-ch MOSFETs only.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2024-11-14, 14:50:

I would avoid welding something recovery, it could not last long, because maybe it had been used a lot.

It doesn't really matter too much how much the part has been used, at least when it comes to power MOSFETs. So long as they weren't abused to hell running just a few degrees below their Tj max allowed (you'd know if they were - the board around them would be dark / have burned color.)
With that said, it should be fine to pull some from a dead board and try them out. They don't even have to be the same exact part, just close enough. For the most part, as long as the voltage and current specs are the same and the MOSFETs are from a similar generation (so that their Gate capacitance parameters are similar), there's a very good chance the replacement will work fine.
I have fixed quite a few stuff with burned MOSFETs - some more than a decade ago and still working fine.
At the very least, you can try this before purchasing new parts to see if there's anything else wrong with the PSU and if there are possibly other parts that you might need to order as well. Should save some time this way too.

momaka wrote on 2024-11-19, 16:14:

Those twin daughterboards are DC-DC modules (buck regulator type) - one for the 3.3V rail and one for the 5V rail. They will hav […]
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PC@LIVE wrote on 2024-11-14, 14:36:

I noticed that the card in which the SMD was removed, should be identical to the one next to it, it should be twin cards 👯‍♀️, if it really is, in the other card I read on the component: 060N03L

Those twin daughterboards are DC-DC modules (buck regulator type) - one for the 3.3V rail and one for the 5V rail.
They will have N-ch MOSFETs only.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2024-11-14, 14:50:

I would avoid welding something recovery, it could not last long, because maybe it had been used a lot.

It doesn't really matter too much how much the part has been used, at least when it comes to power MOSFETs. So long as they weren't abused to hell running just a few degrees below their Tj max allowed (you'd know if they were - the board around them would be dark / have burned color.)

I have fixed quite a few stuff with burned MOSFETs - some more than a decade ago and still working fine.
At the very least, you can try this before purchasing new parts to see if there's anything else wrong with the PSU and if there are possibly other parts that you might need to order as well. Should save some time this way too.

Thank you very much ☺️, honestly I didn't know what they were, but following your suggestion, I should be able to understand, which line is that of the pass with a broken mosfet (maybe not the only one).

Regarding the use of recovery components, I would agree, but since these are parts that can be purchased for a short time, I would say that it is not convenient to waste time detaching them and reconnecting them, if they are broken I would change them with new ones, then if the problem should recur in a short time, the suspicion arises that it is not only the broken one (Mosfet), if that power supply had gone to service (guarantee), maybe they would have changed the line, rather than going to look for the defective component, so maybe if the problem occurs, would it be convenient to buy a spare?