momaka wrote on 2025-02-15, 01:08:
It will be fine if you keep the NB and SB cool (good airflow on them, or add dedicate fan on each if really needed.)
If you put FSB to 400 MHz, then you'll need to limit the CPU multiplier to either 7 (2.8 GHz for the CPU) or 8 (3.2 GHz for the CPU.)
Alternatively, if you lower the RAM clock to 333, then you can leave the CPU multiplier stock and run the FSB at it's max officially supported (333 MHz... which is 1333 MHz quad-pumped.) And since you'd be downclocking the RAM, you could use it at lower timings if it doesn't do that by itself.
Well, both the NB and SB have their own nice heatsinks (picture of them), but are now covered by the huge cooler on the CPU, so I don't know how much airflow is reaching them right now, and if they manage to dissipate some of their heat to the cooler's heatsink. The air has to do a bend around the DVD drive bay to reach them and the CPU... Of course, I could just max the FSB to the officially supported frequency and call it a day, wich would bring the CPU clock to 3 GHZ. It's not like the Q9650 or the E8600 use a lower FSB than 333. Of course, I would like to do this without overvolting, so not to spike up to much the power usage.
momaka wrote on 2025-02-15, 01:08:Depends on each particular game / game engine we are talking about. […]
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Depends on each particular game / game engine we are talking about.
If Crysis (2007) is a must on your list of games, then stick to a Quad Core CPU
Mirror's Edge, a game that runs on the Unreal 3 engine (IIRC), will happily run with just 2 fast cores... but if you have 4 cores, occasionally, it will use the 3rd and 4th core. I have played this game a lot, but have not looked too carefully at what the difference is between when it runs on 4+ cores and on just a dual core. All I can tell you about it is that it runs much much faster or a dual core CPU (even a slower one) than a very fast single core CPU.
Next, Valve's Source Engine (e.g. Half-Life 2, Counter-Strike Source, Portal, Portal 2, and etc.): this one will be absolutely satisfied... and even give better results... on a faster dual core CPU than a slower quad core CPU. On my OC'ed Q6600 back in 2018 when I built it and played CS Source via Steam on it, I noticed that only 2 of the 4 cores on the CPU ever got used. The other two were just sitting there doing nothing.
Another game from the mid-2000's that I like quite a bit: Test Drive Unlimited. This one being older pretty much doesn't care for anything more than a dual core CPU. Same goes for the Need For Speed series up to Carbon. Not sure about the newer ones.
Lastly, Call of Duty Modern warfare and Modern Warfare 2: I haven't tested these two, but a former co-worker buddy of mine did quite extensively when he was building a mini LAN party room in his home... and he got to the conclusion that these games runs just as happily on a high-end C2D as they did when he had then on C2Q (Q6600). So he eventually swapped the CPUs in his LAN party rigs to high-end C2Ds. This also brought down the temperatures in the PCs (they were all tiny mATX cases)... not to mention in the gaming room (10 PCs with Q6600 pump out considerably more heat than same PCs with E8500.)
If you want 3 GHz and don't want to spend too much, go for an E8400. A few years back, albeit very lucky on my part, I got a box of them for nothing more than the price of shipping from a recycler - basically a lifetime supply (40 chips, 🤣.)
And if you want more than 3 GHz without going over the 1333 MHz FSB of the mobo, grab something like an E7500. These are still Woofdale cores with SSE4, but made for 1066 MHz FSB, so they have a higher multiplier to boot. When set for 1333 MHz FSB, in the case of the E7500 you will get 3.6 GHz clock.
I actually have no idea. Some of those games happily runs of Windows 10, Crysis was even released on GOG a few years back, and I can easily install the GOG files over my officially DVD copy of the game. Same thing the NFS titles, they have huge communities with tons of fixes, it's a no issue running Underground 2 at 4K 60 on my windows 10 rig, and not a particularly fast one anymore.
Currently I've installed the first Assassin's Creed, COD4 and the original PC port of Crazy Taxi (wich runs at 50 fps cap, making it play slower than the arcade original, and another pointless exercise in futility, since there's a much newer port and the dreamcast restoration mod).
I may go and install other games that have issues with windows 10 and have less interest in the community for fixes, so I may just not care that much about the CPU, for now. It's a shame that I can't install on it games from my steam library... I guess only GOG makes this easier (that Assassin's Creed is the Director's Cut from GOG. All I had to do is create an offline installer from my Win10 PC and copy it on WinXP. It installed and worked first boot).
I was thinking to run the original Bioshok (not the remaster), since that one's also on GOG.
But, being all of them from GOG... They also just works on Windows 10. So, those games won't be the focus. Mostly boxed games I have laying around, like Test Drive Unlimited (that you quoted), but even that one, thanks to community support and mods, it just works on Windows 10. See? It's much harder to justify a dedicated XP build for games. I may actually get an SSD and dualboot Win 7 on it, once I get a better GPU. Thus I should be able to extend the cover of this machine up to 2012/2013.
momaka wrote on 2025-02-15, 01:08:
I do remember it from that thread. But I think we never made it to the point to actually check the voltages with a multimeter to see what it really was doing with the socket A system... so no telling if its 5V rail actually was any good or not.
With that said, if you don't ever intend to return it for warranty, you should probably open it and take a few pictures. At least that's what I always do with my PSUs that I don't care to have warranty on - that way, I can truly know what's hiding in my PSUs and how much I can push them... as well as to know more or less *when* (not if) to expect problems (i.e. the caps to go bad)
I mean, it's still a new unit, I doubt caps are alredy going bad (if they ever will in a short amount of time). And except from Everest telling me it wasn't keeping the voltages (dropping to 4.6v), the socket A system never faltered. No sudden shutdowns or instabiities during heavy games. I had problems booting some games, even DOS one, but I blame that on the fact it has two GPUs in it (the AGP one is in the NB), and some games won't recognize the faster GPU in the PCI slot.
But then I just got myself an enermax that can keep the voltages in spec (barely), so I took that thing out of the system to make sure it won't ever have problems.
It's just 650w, so I don't know how much headroom I have for OCing, but I hope that soon I'll be able to replace the main rig too, thus freeing it's 750w power supply from sharkoon that I know it's good and runs well, even if it's 5 years old.
And, if it should bork itself, I still have the receipt and the two years of warranty on it.
momaka wrote on 2025-02-15, 01:08:
OR, you could do 2x 1 GB and 2x 512 MB for a total of 3 GB. 😁 That will give you the best possible max in WinXp without "loosing" any RAM to 32-bit limit. (Though in theory, you could also do 4 GB and dedicate 1 GB to a RAM disk, then have XP pagefile mapped on that RAM disk.)
By the way, before you condemn one of the sticks dead, see if bumping down the speed to 333 MHz (666 MHz DDR2) brings it back alive. It could be a flaky module... or it could be the mobo RAM controller crapping out. On my Q6600 build, it was the RAM controller that was crapping out at 400 MHz (800 MHz DDR2 speed) when I wanted to run 4x 2 GB (8 GB total)... and this was no less on a EVGA 780i-SLI - a rather high-end mobo. Instead of going down to 6 or 4 GB, I opted to turn down the memory speed and that fixed my stability issues (and also worked nicely for a 1:1 RAM:FSB ratio, so it was a win-win in the end.) But it's actually quite a common issue with many s775 boards: if you populate all 4 memory slots and try to run them at max speed (and especially if they are high capacity modules, like 2 GB like mine), you might get errors/instability/no POST.
I ruled out the memory controller being the issue when I tested all four stiks one by one, in several slots, and only one fails to boot, or barely goes past boot. All the other booted the sistem, ran Ubuntu and even passed memtest without issues. Memtest would fail only when I added the broken stick into the mix.
I also noticed that, except the one that crapped itself, the other two are not a pair. They all are 800mhz, but the one that crapped itself is a 5-5-5-18 1.9v. So I have another one like it that works and then i have:
- a 5-5-5-12 at 1.9v
- a 4-4-4-12 at 2.1v
I seriously didn't even noticed while building the system. The guy that sold me the MOBO probably got the 5-5-5-18 sticks with the sistem, and then upgraded one GB at a time to fill the four slots. Of maybe picked them up from a bin to make the deal even more enticing that what alredy was.
I'm not really into mixing sticks of ram with different voltages and latencies. And I want to retain dual channel, that's why I didn't just run 3x1 GB. And that's why...
momaka wrote on 2025-02-15, 01:08:
Skip the "low timings" special OC RAM. You really won't see that much of a performance gain from it in games - not nearly as much as a higher CPU core clock (or better GPU) - at least for these old DDR2 systems.
I bited the bullet and got myself a 2X2 corsair kit at 4-4-4-12. Yeah, exactly one of those special OC RAM sticks, since I managed to shave off 5€ from the price by asking the seller. It's a tested kit, the seller declared both sticks passed memtest, are perfectly working, and even put a 1yr warranty on them (I should probably print a PDF of the listing, to keep a memo of it).
All in all it's a minor setback in my plan, and I can actually sell off the working stick as "working and tested" for cheap. Maybe even sell the ded one as "for parts".
Maybe, if I had read this before, I could've just took a new old stock of normal 800mhz kingston sticks, plenty of them around, and still avoiding those cheap brands that you can find for new even on amazon.
And, at this point, I really may just OC the FSB up to it's officially supported 333mhz (wich would be requireds for either a Q9650 or an E8600), and just downclock and even downvolt the ram to get a 1:1 ratio, hoping I wont have to overvolt the FSB (or not overvolt it that much), just like I said in the beginning.
I'll recoup the money spent on getting a full set of ram by not spending money on the CPU, and keeping the Q6600, and run it at 333mhz FSB, and also waiting before getting a 560ti (or any other GPU). Unless I find a deal I can't refuse. 😜
H3nrik V! wrote on 2025-02-15, 23:47:
Always been a sucker for more cores, I was pretty eager to get a Q8200 when they came out (I've skating always been a sucker for second generation process node).
But - I'm an overclocker by heart, ever since Celeron 300A, so more cores, more clock 🤣
Then I may try a light OC on it, once the new ram arrives. It should be a factory OCd one, so I won't have to touch it, but I can try to push the FSB to 333mhz. Afterall, that's the same freqency it would have to reach if I buy either a Q9650 or an E8600.
I could even downclock and downvolt the ram to get a 1:1 ratio with the FSB, at that point.
douglar wrote on 2025-02-16, 15:43:
Nice build! That would have been quite the battleship in 2008.
In 2008 I wanted a 65 watt phenom X4 @ 3.2ghz! Unfortunately that came out 18 months too late and 80 watts too hot 🙁
Yup, I actually got the itch to build this while, backing up the HDD from my old Socket A sistem, I found a screenshoot of a list of parts that a friend of mine made for me back in 2008. It was a 2000€ DDR3 775 system. Without the MOBO in that price.
So yeah, I wanted to see how much it would cost me to get as close as possible to it. Currently I'm still below 200€ for all of it (even including the recently ordered RAM).