VOGONS


First post, by thegeforce

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Hey all, got a old intel D965PERL motherboard from my first gaming desktop build from 2011 (from spare parts from a IT tech at my mums old job when they where upgrading to 2nd gen intel core machines) that doesnt post anymore.
Lights are on but nobodys home kinda thing.

Started happening a few years ago with it needing to be on for a few mins for it to POST when i press the reset switch, needing progressively more time to be on before it POSTS on reset, now it doesnt POST at all no matter how long i wait until i press reset.

I know there is a cap going bad on the motherboard, its the one above the SATA drive plugs, i havent gotten around to replacing that (despite having replacments on hand for years, been too scared to destroy the via and premanently ruin the board) yet so it seems i should replace that cap and all will be well again. However ive just gone onto The Retro Web and they mention thet CPU VRM's controller going bad, which makes me anxious becuase of the CPU that this board has (listed in specs). hopefully it isnt dead from this boards VRM going bad.

Id prefer to keep this board and not go with a different board due to sentimental value, still running the origional XP install i was running back then.

any ideas? im hoping the replacment cap will bring this board back to life.

Thanks.

Specs: (CPU and GPU and HDD's arent origional to how i ran it in 2011, i got those after i decided to make the machine whole again, was used for parts at some point)
Pentium 4 Extreme Edition 3.4GHz
4GB DDR400
HIS Radeon HD3850 AGP
2x 150gb Raptors in raid 0
Thermaltake 450w ATX PSU (purchased new in 2018)
dual DVD/RW drives
Exabyte Exatape VXa320 tape drive

Reply 1 of 4, by Ozzuneoj

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Definitely replace all of the caps that are of the same brand as the one that is visibly going bad. If one is bad, they probably all are.

I have no experience with this particular board, so I can't say whether the VRM is likely to be bad or not, but there's no way of knowing until the bad caps are replaced at least.

If you want to save a bit of work just for testing, replace any that are visibly bad first and see if that brings it back to life. Most likely it won't work well until all plagued caps are gone though, and this board is definitely from the middle of the cap plague era. If you replace some and it does start working, I would still replace them all. It's possible that you'd be doing damage to the VRM or other components by running it with some bad caps.

Also, welcome to VOGONS. 😀

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 2 of 4, by thegeforce

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Hello,

only that cap on the board looks visibly bad and has been leaking on the top for a while. but from what i can see there isnt any leaking under the cap, ill have a look around the board completely to see if there are any other bad caps in need of replacing, but from what i can remember (not at home atm) that one cap was the only bad one i could see.

thanks.

Reply 3 of 4, by Ozzuneoj

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thegeforce wrote on Yesterday, 05:51:

Hello,

only that cap on the board looks visibly bad and has been leaking on the top for a while. but from what i can see there isnt any leaking under the cap, ill have a look around the board completely to see if there are any other bad caps in need of replacing, but from what i can remember (not at home atm) that one cap was the only bad one i could see.

thanks.

Like I said, if one is visibly bad then you will want to replace all caps of that type on the board because they are very likely all bad, regardless of how they look. Long before a capacitor leaks or even bulges, a bad cap from the plague era (roughly 1999-2007) will be so far out of spec (ESR, capacitance, etc.) that it can cause serious problems.

It's a common misconception that a bad capacitor has to have visible signs of being bad. In fact, tiny aluminum electrolytic caps (usually found in clusters around the PCI slots, rather than the large ones near the CPU) generally do not leak or swell, and yet can cause problems just like the larger ones.

I would not just go around replacing all caps on every board for no reason, but if one is visibly leaking\bulged and it is of a not so great brand name, you can be certain that the other caps of that type came from the same batch with the defective electrolyte. Often times heat can accelerate the deterioration of a capacitor, so it is common for some to be more visibly bad than others simply because they were exposed to more heat.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 4 of 4, by Dorunkāku

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I have two of these motherboards. Both were dead when I got them and both started working again after replacing the single tall capacitor between the RAM slots and the SATA ports.