I see 11 around the CPU socket. I believe (and someone will correct me if I'm wrong) that these older boards take 5V from the PSU for the VRM high. So just use a quality 6.3V 1000uF part in 8mm for all 11.

There is also 1 behind the USB port, 2 near the AGP port, and one between the PCI slots. For these as well, again, just use a quality 8mm 6.3V 1000uF part.

I see 14 (+1 unsoldered, obviously to save money)
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/asus-sp98agp-x

The capacitor type depends on the application. If it's a dreary 192 MB RAM + Riva TNT, then 1000u standard-quality low-ESR electrolytic capacitors will suffice.
If everything is running at its limits, the +5 V to +3.3 V converter will struggle with this type.
You'll need around 3300 µF.
If you skip the "an looks appropriate to that time" and just solder any general use polymer capacitors of the appropriate diameter, 560–1000 µF x 6.3 V.

mockingbird, shevalier, thank you for the info! Right now I'm trying to contact the known owners of this MB, but if I don't find any additional info, I'll go with 1000 μF caps.

Tho, the description on The Retro Web says that the motherboard is suffering from insufficient power delivery (but doesn't describe any routes of upgrading it), so I thought maybe at least trying some caps with higher voltage ratings, if they fit (some spots seem pretty tight).

shevalier, are you sure that changing the actual capacity rating that drastically (3 fold) is a wise move? Voltage rating, yes, but going with way higher capacitance in these circuits - I've never heard of it. Could you please provide some links, confirming, detailing and explaining your approach? Thank you.

For now I'd want to ask the community of the forum to help me contact these people here: Batyra, Nemo1985 and Horun. These people at least at some point in time in the past used to have this motherboard.

I would've contacted them myself, but I'm not allowed to use the PM system on this forum.

This is what I would do:

Looking at boards of this vintage, I see mostly 6.3V1000µF in every position, so doing that would be the easiest, and probably accurate way. Doing the red dots in 1500 or more would be the only upgrade in that department.

Good luck getting it working! Hope no other problems are present. Top side looks good

You have to ask why, failed recap and the good ones reclaimed ?

Matth79 wrote on 2025-11-06, 02:11:

You have to ask why, failed recap and the good ones reclaimed ?

I have at least one board that I know of that I removed all of the caps from in anticipation of a recap several years ago. I kept the old leaky ones (still have them I think, 🤣) and I think I even wrote down the values and positions... I just never got around to fixing this particular board. Maybe I'll do it this winter...🤔

I imagine that as these boards became obsolete it wasn't super uncommon for DIY-types to remove caps but then ever get around to replacing them when the boards were really worth nothing 15-20 years ago. Obviously it's usually best to remove and replace them at around the same time to avoid confusion, but stuff happens.

Major Jackyl, thank you for the info. I'm not going after the looks, and I think anything top branded like Panasonic would cost an arm and a leg here. Pretty much all I have available (and have a budget for) is some chinese stuff... We still don't know if the board is even worth it.

Matth79, who knows. People do strange things to scrap here. It was, judging by the state of it, fished out of a dumpster. I pretty much had to powerwash it with a shower and then bathe it in alcohol to just be able to touch it without a fear of catching something...

Also remember to check all jumpers before powering it up.
Both the "BF" and the "VID" block are missing a few =)

I have the board and I can check the value of the original caps if necessary.

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 16:24:

I have the board and I can check the value of the original caps if necessary.

Oh, I'd love that! Thank you very much in advance.
For now all we have here is some guesses based on similar MBs and overall logic of such circuitry, but knowing the values for sure would be great (and actually would show us how close all those guesses were 😉.

CallMeRive wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:36:

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 16:24:

I have the board and I can check the value of the original caps if necessary.

Oh, I'd love that! Thank you very much in advance.
For now all we have here is some guesses based on similar MBs and overall logic of such circuitry, but knowing the values for sure would be great (and actually would show us how close all those guesses were 😉.

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obviously the same brand I.Q.
Same appears from retroweb website: https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/asus-sp98agp-x

I'm sure shevalier (I don't know how to tag him) can provide a good advice about how to recap it

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:46:

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obv […]
Show full quote

CallMeRive wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:36:

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 16:24:

I have the board and I can check the value of the original caps if necessary.

Oh, I'd love that! Thank you very much in advance.
For now all we have here is some guesses based on similar MBs and overall logic of such circuitry, but knowing the values for sure would be great (and actually would show us how close all those guesses were 😉.

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obviously the same brand I.Q.
Same appears from retroweb website: https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/asus-sp98agp-x

I'm sure shevalier (I don't know how to tag him) can provide a good advice about how to recap it

Panasonic FM-A 1.29 Amper@ 48 mOhm - 0.525 Euro (10 piece per 0.249 EUro)
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic … aPNCyv4vQ%3D%3D
Yageo -Kemet A750 4.1 Amper@ 15mOhm - 0.49 Euro (10 piece per 0.323 EUro)
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A75 … GNWZzYJQg%3D%3D

At the same time, despite the fact that Panasonic has a Endurance of 4,000 hours and Kemet has a Endurance of 2,000 hours, they will work forever in this motherboard.
The Endurance is specified for maximum operating values.
Personally, I prefer less pretentious ones polymer, like Lelon - even such capacitors are eternal in such applications.
But those who wish can put anything they want, even Elna SILMIC II

shevalier wrote on 2025-11-07, 08:52:

Panasonic FM-A 1.29 Amper@ 48 mOhm - 0.525 Euro (10 piece per 0.249 EUro) https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic … aPNCy […]
Show full quote

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:46:

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obv […]
Show full quote

CallMeRive wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:36:

Oh, I'd love that! Thank you very much in advance.
For now all we have here is some guesses based on similar MBs and overall logic of such circuitry, but knowing the values for sure would be great (and actually would show us how close all those guesses were 😉.

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obviously the same brand I.Q.
Same appears from retroweb website: https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/asus-sp98agp-x

I'm sure shevalier (I don't know how to tag him) can provide a good advice about how to recap it

Panasonic FM-A 1.29 Amper@ 48 mOhm - 0.525 Euro (10 piece per 0.249 EUro)
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic … aPNCyv4vQ%3D%3D
Yageo -Kemet A750 4.1 Amper@ 15mOhm - 0.49 Euro (10 piece per 0.323 EUro)
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A75 … GNWZzYJQg%3D%3D

At the same time, despite the fact that Panasonic has a Endurance of 4,000 hours and Kemet has a Endurance of 2,000 hours, they will work forever in this motherboard.
The Endurance is specified for maximum operating values.
Personally, I prefer less pretentious ones polymer, like Lelon - even such capacitors are eternal in such applications.
But those who wish can put anything they want, even Elna SILMIC II

Thank you.
I checked your links and both are not available.
https://www.tme.eu/it/en/details/ulr1000_6.3l … 08m0jf08rrx0cr/
That would work too in your opinion?
Polymer caps are usually smaller than old electrolytics, which is good because there is one very near to the cpu socket and it has been scratched.

All caps are 6.3V 1000mF SANYO

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-07, 08:56:

Thank you. I checked your links and both are not available. https://www.tme.eu/it/en/details/ulr1000_6.3l … 08m0jf08rrx0cr/ That […]
Show full quote

shevalier wrote on 2025-11-07, 08:52:

Panasonic FM-A 1.29 Amper@ 48 mOhm - 0.525 Euro (10 piece per 0.249 EUro) https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic … aPNCy […]
Show full quote

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:46:

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obviously the same brand I.Q.
Same appears from retroweb website: https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/asus-sp98agp-x

I'm sure shevalier (I don't know how to tag him) can provide a good advice about how to recap it

Panasonic FM-A 1.29 Amper@ 48 mOhm - 0.525 Euro (10 piece per 0.249 EUro)
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic … aPNCyv4vQ%3D%3D
Yageo -Kemet A750 4.1 Amper@ 15mOhm - 0.49 Euro (10 piece per 0.323 EUro)
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A75 … GNWZzYJQg%3D%3D

At the same time, despite the fact that Panasonic has a Endurance of 4,000 hours and Kemet has a Endurance of 2,000 hours, they will work forever in this motherboard.
The Endurance is specified for maximum operating values.
Personally, I prefer less pretentious ones polymer, like Lelon - even such capacitors are eternal in such applications.
But those who wish can put anything they want, even Elna SILMIC II

Thank you.
I checked your links and both are not available.
https://www.tme.eu/it/en/details/ulr1000_6.3l … 08m0jf08rrx0cr/
That would work too in your opinion?
Polymer caps are usually smaller than old electrolytics, which is good because there is one very near to the cpu socket and it has been scratched.

Measure the distance between the holes on the printed circuit board with a ruler.
For this size, it will be either 3.5 mm or 5.0 mm.
Select any of the available options with the required distance between the pins.

According to your link, it is a "Terminal pitch 3.5mm"
If the distance between the holes is 5 mm, it will not be very good.
As far as I know, ULR capacitors were used by Microstar on the 775 socket and AM3.

For 5mm pitch now present on TME shop is
https://www.tme.eu/it/en/details/a750ms108m1a … pacitors/kemet/

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:46:

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obv […]
Show full quote

CallMeRive wrote on 2025-11-06, 23:36:

Nemo1985 wrote on 2025-11-06, 16:24:

I have the board and I can check the value of the original caps if necessary.

Oh, I'd love that! Thank you very much in advance.
For now all we have here is some guesses based on similar MBs and overall logic of such circuitry, but knowing the values for sure would be great (and actually would show us how close all those guesses were 😉.

Holy moly... I just checked and ALL the caps on my motherboard are v6.3 1000uf! They are all the same physical dimension and obviously the same brand I.Q.
Same appears from retroweb website: https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/asus-sp98agp-x

I'm sure shevalier (I don't know how to tag him) can provide a good advice about how to recap it

Thank you very much! Turns out, you confirmed what others said, but I personally prefer to know for sure, since I have only one shot at it.

People are recommending Panasonic and other top brands here, but gotta be honest - it's very pricey here (last I checked, 10x times), so I'll go with what I have available - just solid-state JB and unnamed chinese stuff, I think. Plus I think I'll try to boost up the capacitance around the socket slightly (as per Major Jackyl 's recommendations, moderate increase over the drastic one) and deffo will increase the voltage ratings.

As for the sizes, not my first recap - I think I can make 10 mm fit. And I don't care about the looks - it's not exactly a museum piece and I'm not going to use it in a case with a window. 😀 Might not be working at all after all...

I'm honestly not a fan of this chip, it doesn't properly support the 100mhz which makes this motherboard a fake ss7 (I remember I did some research and the only sis motherboard able to support 100mhz fsb was a gigabyte rev2 if the memory doesn't fail me).
I also don't care about the look, but you surely noticed there are several caps around the socket which will present a problem with some heatsink.
Let us know how it goes

CallMeRive wrote on 2025-11-07, 13:14:

just solid-state JB and unnamed chinese stuff

I usually prefer to get polymer capacitors from AM3/s775 donors.
For older motherboards, third or fourth-tier manufacturers are quite sufficient. For example, Lelon, Capson PS, Samwha FB, or the same ULR.
In terms of power consumption, it's not an RTX5090.

PS.
https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/image/m4n … 9f091180663.jpg
Look for such a dead unit at flea markets in non-working/untested condition.
It's the same Asus AM3, they're all dead now.
An excellent source.

shevalier wrote on 2025-11-07, 13:48:

I usually prefer to get polymer capacitors from AM3/s775 donors. For older motherboards, third or fourth-tier manufacturers are […]
Show full quote

CallMeRive wrote on 2025-11-07, 13:14:

just solid-state JB and unnamed chinese stuff

I usually prefer to get polymer capacitors from AM3/s775 donors.
For older motherboards, third or fourth-tier manufacturers are quite sufficient. For example, Lelon, Capson PS, Samwha FB, or the same ULR.
In terms of power consumption, it's not an RTX5090.

Unfortunately, no donors here (I'm not a shop) and it's gonna be JB anyway (an this is the best variant 😀 ) . Even Jamicons here cost like $1-2 per piece (not worth it for the board) and you'd have to wait for them to arrive (some places show 6-7 WEEKS!). And some values seem to be not available at all...