Hi,

As I cannot find the schematic for this motherboard and it is a multilayer PCB I would err on the side of caution: clean the area, jump all the damaged traces, check for shorts and only after this would I try to turn it on.

If I would have to guess (but note that this is only a guess without the schematic) the wide trace is most likely used to deliver power and having that broken might affect the whole motherboard, so I would consider that the most critical of them.

You could also try to check the traces where are they connected, but cleaning and jumping them might be quicker than doing a full trace across the motherboard.

The main issue is it goes under the lowest ISA port, then under a chip and I lose where they go. I am thinking a tiny wire to bridge each would be easiest.

Those 'replacement" modules are so monumentally stupid. Big L from Necroware. Cool product to sell, but
- makes people throw away perfectly good chips
- forces novices to solder 24 pins on their precious mobos
- isnt always fully compatible with original chip

Its super easy to rejuvenate original Dallas/BQ module by cutting into it or melting plastic with soldering iron.
Replace Dallas RTC battery without desoldering?
https://www.dreamcast.nu/en/dallas-rtc-battery-replacement/
https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/200 … attery-chip.htm
http://www.mcamafia.de/mcapage0/dsrework.htm
https://www.ardent-tool.com/misc/Dallas_Rework.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdlSfqto_0o

Looks like you cut off the old chip?

But whats done is done. You will need
- soldering Flux. Home depot, walmart should have it on the shelf. Even the $5 tin can of paste stuff should be ok.
- Desoldering Braid or thick multi-stranded copper wire - like speaker wire
- thin wire, like single strand from a speaker wire
- kapton tape or really good coordination
- magnification

1 Use Braid or speaker wire soaked in Flux to clean all that solder spilled all over the place, and from holes.
2 post a picture of the scratch after cleaning the solder 😀
3 if there really are breaks in tracks carefully scrape (with a pick, tiny screwdriver/knife) before and after the breaks to expose enough copper to solder to it
4 tape off above and below so when you solder thin wire to individual track solder doesnt spill up and down
5 move the tape and solder broken tracks one by one

something like this https://www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/1 … s_how_did_i_go/ except your tracks are closer together and smaller 😀

There is no need for big bodges, you have whole centimeters of good tracks on both sides of the mess you made.

I didn't cut it off, but a few of the legs broke off when I was trying to get it out. The board is a massive heatsink and was starting to almost melt plastic things around it without actually coming free. I didn't consider it to matter as the battery chip was dead, and I'd have to desolder it anyway to replace it with a new one.
I don't see taking a Dremel to a chip and jamming some wires in it any easier than desoldering. Either path is a pain. It was a stupid design in the first place to embed the CMOS battery in a chip you can't service. I have flux, desoldering braid, and have done plenty of soldering before. This was just a fluke where it scratched the board. I was just trying to determine if anyone knew if the traces on this specific board were redundant like a grounding or something like the serial port I'll never use. But I can solder replacement strands over it, I was just hoping to not need to