Nichicon caps as far as I can see, not shabby at all! If you want to, re-capping with proper high quality caps is a good idea imho. They've had their lifetime and deserve to finally rest.
My next concern would basically be the fan. Apart from that, there's nothing that really needs to be serviced. I wouldn't change too much, if it's working well right now.. giving it a good cleaning pressurized air would be good as well.

Some caps are splashed with that white goo. Anything I should be aware of?

Retronerd878 wrote on 2026-07-13, 10:06:

Some caps are splashed with that white goo. Anything I should be aware of?

It's adhesive to prevent them from moving/vibrating during transport. For normal use you can just remove it and solder them in directly.

That's a fine piece of vintage equipment 👍 , Delta is a top notch PSU manufacturer. Chemi-Con, Nichicon & Rubycon caps all around.

The fan header on the PSU PCB is of the "mini" 2-pin type:

If the replacement fan you choose comes with a 3-pin connector, cut the connector from the OEM fan, then splice & solder it to the new one.

Before powering any system, I'd test the health of this PSU with some dummy load for several hours, checking voltages with a multimeter. Better safe than sorry.

Any idea what voltage is that fan?

Retronerd878 wrote on 2026-07-13, 14:26:

Any idea what voltage is that fan?

12V

tehsiggi wrote on 2026-07-13, 08:49:

Apart from that, there's nothing that really needs to be serviced. I wouldn't change too much, if it's working well right now.. giving it a good cleaning pressurized air would be good as well.

This ^

If it was in my hands, I wouldn't bother with recapping, as all of those capacitors currently in the PSU are of really high quality. Well, the only exception is Nichicon PR series and from United Chemicon, I think either it was LXF or another related series that had the same issue as Nichicon PR - leaking from the bottom from aggressively corrosive electrolyte. But apart from these two, all other series were OK. So IME, it's OK to leave the PSU alone and use it as-is.

That said, I do as TELVM suggested and connected a "dummy" load the PSU and then let it run for an hour or sobefore putting in a PC. This will allow the caps to self-reform and also tell you if the PSU has an issue in the long term or not.
For dummy load, you can use something like 1 or 2 auto (12V) halogen light bulbs rated 40-60 Watts (typically the headlight bulbs have that kind of power rating). Connected both of them to the 5V rail as this is an old 5V-heavy PSU and will expect most of the load on the 5V rail. For the 12V rail, a fan or two should be fine or you can connect another (smaller) 12V auto halogen bulb (something like 5-15 Watts would be fine.) While you have it connected to the load, take a multimeter and check the voltages. On these old PSUs with a good 5V load, the 5V rail should be pretty close to 5V. The 12V is usually (though not always) a bit low and under 12V... which is fairly normal.

But yeah, I don't see a reason to recap this PSU, despite the age of the caps. And if you do decide to recap it, you can still leave the big 200V primary caps alone - those should be good for at least another few decades. I've pulled PSUs from "industrial" equipment before (some of it was just regular consumer desktops hardware, but used for industrial applications) and have never seen any primary caps go bad unless there was something seriously wrong with the AC supply lines (read: constant over-voltage / high supply line way above normal.)

If PSU was tested prior acquiring and is known to be working, and you wish to use it daily, do the following:

1. Test the high voltage capacitors on the primary side for impedance and capacitance. Make sure they are symmetrical in specs, ideally, they shouldn't deviate more than 3% from one another. If they check out, don't replace them.

2. Test timing capacitors (usually 1-10uf electrolytic) next to the switching transistors on HV side, make sure that they are in spec and symmetrical. They are the main reason why HV side fails on old PSUs, once they dry out, switching transistors can't fully turn on and eventually overheat. I replace them without much thinking only with good brand capacitors.

3. Check output capacitors, if one of the same kind is OK, usually rest will be fine too, if not, replace them all.

4. Check underside for cold solder joints.

5. If a PSU doesn't have load resistors on all output rails, apply some load before powering it, or PSU will fail shortly. An old hard drive or some sacrificial motherboard usually are enough. Apply load even if it has load resistors, because w/o sufficient load, PSU won't reach right output voltages and might appear faulty.

If PSU wasn't tested prior acquisition and is in unknown state... Then test HV caps and if they are in spec, connect PSU to a variable voltage transformer and reform capacitors for at least two hours by increasing voltage in steps prior even attempting to power it on, else those caps might just short out almost instantly.

I wouldn't bother replacing the fan, if it's noisy, just clean and re-oil it. To be honest, it would be difficult to find a replacement for such a good quality fan.