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GA-5AX rev 4.1 issues

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First post, by Space Cowboy

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As you know, guys, everybody here has his ... soft spot, when speaking of retro-hardware.

Mine is Super Socket 7. And Ali Aladin 5, in particular.

I suppose many of you know this board.

The one pictured, arrived dead. (anyway, I'm buying every piece of SS7 hardware I find, so sh!ts happen, from time to time).

By dead, I mean, I tried a few working CPU's, memory modules, videocards, etc. I cleard the BIOS (by removing battery), pulled out, cleaned and reinserted the BIOS chip.

Don't know where the problem is, so I'm gonna ask for help and advices.

The jumpers were totaly mismatched, the dip switch was in all-off position. (at the pictures I've set it at 2.2V, 100Mhz and x5 multuplier)

But the CPU, that came with the board is OK. It's a K6-2 500, and I tested it on two other SS7 boards.

One strange thing is, though the capacitors are two different types (8mm and 10mm), all of them are 330uF 25V. If anyone has rev 4.1, could you please check what are his capacitors.

I'm gonna replace them, just to be sure the problem is not bad caps.

Any other ideas what to try?

149m.jpg

153m.jpg

Reply 1 of 6, by TELVM

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Same here, 10x16 & 8x16 25V 330uF all around.

In practical terms none of them needs more than 16V rating, and the 10mm ones for VRM out close to the CPU will do with 10V or 6.3V. I'd suggest:

· Nichicon HM 16V 680uF 10x12.5mm (1540 ripple · 0.025 ESR) to replace the 10mm
· Nichicon HN 16V 470uF 8x11.5mm (1300 ripple · 0.021 ESR) for the 8mm

Let the air flow!

Reply 2 of 6, by Artex

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Does the board get power at all? Any beep codes?

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Reply 3 of 6, by Space Cowboy

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TELVM wrote:
Same here, 10x16 & 8x16 25V 330uF all around. […]
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Same here, 10x16 & 8x16 25V 330uF all around.

In practical terms none of them needs more than 16V rating, and the 10mm ones for VRM out close to the CPU will do with 10V or 6.3V. I'd suggest:

· Nichicon HM 16V 680uF 10x12.5mm (1540 ripple · 0.025 ESR) to replace the 10mm
· Nichicon HN 16V 470uF 8x11.5mm (1300 ripple · 0.021 ESR) for the 8mm

Hi, TELVM, I have 8pcs of 10 mm and 17 pcs of 8mm, for a total of 25 capacitors. You have all the 10 pcs x 10mm for the VRM on your board (I have two left unsolded)

Nichicon is too expensive here (I have to order it abroad, it's like 1$ a piece + whatever delivery costs).

I could use only HITANO or Fijicon - the only brands I can find arround.

Artex wrote:

Does the board get power at all? Any beep codes?

I couldn't find my "portable" speaker, so I haven't heard any beeps 😀.

The board powers up - the CPU gets hot and the PSU's fan is working.

Reply 4 of 6, by TELVM

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Space Cowboy wrote:

... You have all the 10 pcs x 10mm for the VRM on your board (I have two left unsolded)

Nope, there are some empty spots. While we're at it I'd also fill them (this guy did and nothing exploded 😀 ) : http://www.amd-k6.com/k6-box-part-2-ga-5ax-capacitors/

Space Cowboy wrote:

... I could use only HITANO or Fijicon - the only brands I can find arround.

Better than nothing but I'd try to get jap caps.

Let the air flow!

Reply 5 of 6, by JaNoZ

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try to see if it works when you heat up the board. hairdryer.

If you do not succeed, do not ditch it, i would also like to give it a try.
No scratches on the PCB that have cut any track.

Reply 6 of 6, by Space Cowboy

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JaNoZ wrote:

try to see if it works when you heat up the board. hairdryer.

If you do not succeed, do not ditch it, i would also like to give it a try.
No scratches on the PCB that have cut any track.

No scratches.

And no dust on the board, so iI suppose it has been kept in preserving ... conditions. But it could have been bent to a limit that a track has been destroyed, or a static electricity might have played it's role ...

I'll know in a couple of days. I'll recap it - it will take me an hour or so + 2$ for the caps 😀.