markot wrote:

...Or would there be some adapter (having relay or something...?) that would allow me to use ATX case button as a momentary switch, if deciding to use an ATX power supply instead?

Adapters of that kind are readily available:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATX-to-AT-Power-suppl … =item35ccaf58d1

You only need to connect (solder) your ATX power switch cables to this ones power switch leads.

But this adapter would probably require me to replace the power button on the ATX case to another type if I understood correctly?

I think they want to use their existing AT PSU in an ATX case, rather than an ATX PSU with AT motherboard.
The switch in the case will be a low-voltage momentary type.
I haven't seen a ready-made adaptor for this, as you say it would require some timing logic and a relay.
You may just have to mod the case to fit the larger AC switch, otherwise the easy solution is to use an ATX PSU and one of the adaptors shown above.

I could be wrong, but power switch issues aside, I don't think an AT motherboard will fit in a Micro ATX case. Even if you can live with only the bottom four slot brackets, the mounting holes for the mainboard will not fit.

You need a full ATX case to fit a Baby-AT motherboard. If you want a small ATX case, your best bet is to get one of those older ATX cases where the PSU is mounted in a way it overlaps the processor, from back when having the PSU blow air on the processor was a standard.

alexanrs wrote:

You need a full ATX case to fit a Baby-AT motherboard. If you want a small ATX case, your best bet is to get one of those older ATX cases where the PSU is mounted in a way it overlaps the processor, from back when having the PSU blow air on the processor was a standard.

Yes, I actually noticed that yesterday when looking at the number os expansion slots. If I would find a nice compact AT case, it would be the best.

markot wrote:

Yes, I actually noticed that yesterday when looking at the number os expansion slots. If I would find a nice compact AT case, it would be the best.

Yep, that would be the obvious option if you can find one. Baby AT mini towers and standard Micro ATX cases are pretty much identical in size.

If I had a metal workshop, I would build the case myself. I have found out that people who may have these cases are not willing to sell these cases cheap, instead they will dispose these.

markot wrote:

But this adapter would probably require me to replace the power button on the ATX case to another type if I understood correctly?

No. Just cut the metals from the tips of power switch cables of the adapter, and solder them to your ATX case's normal power button. No need to change the button.

tayyare wrote:

markot wrote:

But this adapter would probably require me to replace the power button on the ATX case to another type if I understood correctly?

No. Just cut the metals from the tips of power switch cables of the adapter, and solder them to your ATX case's normal power button. No need to change the button.

ATX buttons are momentary, for this to work like you sugested he would have to change it to a latched swith. It is not hard to do that, and latched swithes of the same dimensions of the momentary switches used in most cheap cases are very easy to find. Or one has to make a little "latched to momentary" circuit, and power it with the 5VSB line. This would allow to use the case as-is, but it would require to mod the adapter (to get 5VSB) and build a little circuit with either transistors or a flip-flop.

Would that converterkit not require a switch like the AT button?
Just wondering, because if you short out the green wire and a black on an ATX-Psu, it will keep running until you remove the wire.
If a momentary switch are used, you would need to press it down manually to keep the PC running.

brostenen wrote:

Would that converterkit not require a switch like the AT button?
Just wondering, because if you short out the green wire and a black on an ATX-Psu, it will keep running until you remove the wire.
If a momentary switch are used, you would need to press it down manually to keep the PC running.

You and alexanrs are absolutely right, I just get confused I guess, sorry about that 😊

Actually what I did long in the past is not what I described on top, but this: Permanently solder the green and ground (wires with leads for toggle switch) and use the power switch of PSU itself. If the back of your PC is reachable, this might be a solution.