It's clear now all you gotta do is change the GF1, but here we go...
(why not? It may take years for you to find one cheaply and get away with it).
My skills with a multimeter is usually limited to measuring 9V DC adapters and the like, to
see if they are alive, so I'm not sure I did things correctly today.
Warning: I know electronic like a roach knows quantum physics, but it won't destroy
your sound card for good (and even if she worked):
Take out the card from your system and measure resistance from every electrolytic capacitor
(Horse shoe symbol in your multimeter). You don't want to see 0 (zero) Ohm - it indicates
something went wrong with the card (you don't say 😀 😀 😀 Maybe the capacitor itself, diode, etc..)
Furthermore there is a simple charge test, if you can trust it - A multimeter has only 3v
from battery and a capacitor rate vary from 6 to 100v. Anyway, I don't think it's good for you to
know about this test. You have a capacimeter after all.
As I implied, I want to learn a little bit about practical electronic, cause theorical part
is out of this world. So yeah, correct me if I am wrong, but electrolytic capacitor in the
worst scenario can even do some damage to the components on a card.
My results so far doing the tests I mentioned:
Geforce 4 MX 4000 - No video signal, just blank screen. I removed one capacitor and it worked.
ESS AudioDrive 688 Eagle - No sound output. Removed two capacitors and it came to life. Lucky ?
I don't buy that...Although I had a few fails:
Sound Blaster 16 VIBRA16C - No sound output. A 470uf capacitor was presenting 10-20uf in the
capacimeter. I replaced it with a new one to no avail. Two 47uf capacitors were a little bulged
and I replaced both with 100uf rate. It didn't work either - Speaker out still muted.
Later I compared some photos on net and realized the problem was two missing jumpers on J5.
At last! The Speaker Out is working 🤣 but men, WHAT A NOISY SOUND CARD!
Holy mother of god 😠 Maybe the 100uf capacitor is no good replacement for 47uf.
The fact is I can hear a static noisy (radio AM/FM???) in almost every game when volume is high.
I must go to some thread talking about VIBRA16C and confirm CT2960 is a terrible thing or undone
the unnecessary recap operation as I'm beginning to suspect I cannot double the UF rating of capacitors.
Back to your problem, until you declare GUS as a dud. Can't you perform a continuity test on the broken
trace ? My experience tells me it is only finishing paint scratched, just the protector damaged and
rarely a broken continuity. Our fellows nailed it. Likely you just need to replace the GF1
(get another exemplar for better chances of diagnosing your defective one).
Here I am just venturing in the multimeter. I think it is great! Be patient with my caps ramblings.
Guys here recap everything. You can be sure capacitors aren't making your card working improperly.
And although I think "dirty" in the socket chip isn't making any difference *** You should see one of
my BIOS chips *** I would like to know more about that fiber glass brush. It's like what sponge does
for metals - shinning them ? Please, tell me I can restore those tiny metals from memory slots.
Are there others applications? Thanks for any insight.