its not just the connector issue, dell changed what the pins do during this era, you'd fry it wihtout an adapter or a Dell PSU

No, it's not just a connector issue, in fact it's not even a connector issue because they used a standard ATX connector.

However, what I am thinking is that shifting the connector from the Dell position over to the Intel position would accomplish the change in configuration.

The boards are identical apart from the position of the connector on that 26 pin grid of solder pads; the Dell board has the Intel pads, and the Intel board has the Dell pads, even including pads for the Dell auxiliary 6 pin connector.

Shifting the connector three places to the right would change the function of every pin on the connector.

Looks like I was right, for this board at least.

Check out this pinout diagram - if you shift the connector three pins over, all of the functions line up:

Dell changed some of the wire colors, but if you look at the actual functions, they correspond with the same pins on the ATX standard.

This definitely makes sense - Intel made one board that could be either ATX or Dell, depending on how they configured the power port.

I'll have to take a look at my Dimension 4100 later to see if there is a similar arrangement on that motherboard too.

EDIT:
I found some photos of the Dell Dimension 4100 motherboard, and it's equivalent, the Intel D815EEA.

Sure enough, the same arrangement is used:

(note also the unpopulated pads for the auxiliary power connector on the Intel version)

ATX power connectors are very cheap on ebay, the only problem is that of desoldering the old Dell one and soldering in the proper ATX one.

I'm not sure my soldering skills/equipment are up to the task because there are some very fine traces, but I would love to have all of my Dell boards (I have three) permanently converted over to ATX.

From what I've been able to tell, you're right and it would require shifting the ATX connector across towards those 3 unpopulated rows to work as a normal ATX board - I was considering doing the same thing but ended up finding a whole Dell PC instead so it wasn't so pressing.

You'd need a hot air station / heatgun to be able to get that part off, especially with all of the grounds - you would need to heat the back of the board carefully until the ATX connector can be pulled out, then clean the holes out with a solder sucker and solder it back into the right place. It should be comparatively easy to remove due to the leaded solder, but I can't recommend breathing it 😁

I think an adapter would be easier personally if you've not done that kind of soldering before - it can't be done with just an iron (imo)

Yes, that's why I'm reluctant to try it, even on this spare PPGA board I have.

Whenever I have had to desolder a multi-legged device that I don't care about keeping, I have always clipped the legs off and desoldered them one by one.

I usually attach a hemostat to the leg and then allow gravity to pull it out once the solder melts.

If the plastic part of the ATX port could be removed to expose the pins, I think I would feel confident doing it with an iron.

I'm not familiar with the construction method of the female ATX connector, so I don't know if this is possible.

Is there a way to do it pin by pin?

Its still an interesting find.
Though I quite like the dell connecter, keeps prices down on otherwise good quality Intel motherboards 😉

Exactly - the whole idea of this was to convert a cheap Dell branded board into a standard ATX board, thus getting the best of both worlds.

I tried to remove the ATX connector on a scrap board, and it didn't go well.

I figured that if I snipped away the plastic around the pins then broke the pins off, I would be able to pry away the plastic block and desolder the remaining stubs of the pins one by one.

I did the first part ok, but prying off the plastic block simply didn't work - the remaining parts of the pins still held onto it too tight.

Since I don't have access to hot air equipment, I'm reluctantly putting this idea on hold for now.

I bet one of those electric desoldering guns would make short work of it, but they are too expensive to buy just for an experiment like this.

It's a pity, because ATX connectors are like a dollar on ebay, so this would be a really economical and elegant solution to the Dell problem.

Maybe someone with the requisite equipment could offer it as a service?
I know I would much rather spend the money on a permanent conversion than an adapter.

jamesbeat wrote:

Exactly - the whole idea of this was to convert a cheap Dell branded board into a standard ATX board, thus getting the best of b […]
Show full quote

Exactly - the whole idea of this was to convert a cheap Dell branded board into a standard ATX board, thus getting the best of both worlds.

I tried to remove the ATX connector on a scrap board, and it didn't go well.

I figured that if I snipped away the plastic around the pins then broke the pins off, I would be able to pry away the plastic block and desolder the remaining stubs of the pins one by one.

I did the first part ok, but prying off the plastic block simply didn't work - the remaining parts of the pins still held onto it too tight.

Since I don't have access to hot air equipment, I'm reluctantly putting this idea on hold for now.

I bet one of those electric desoldering guns would make short work of it, but they are too expensive to buy just for an experiment like this.

It's a pity, because ATX connectors are like a dollar on ebay, so this would be a really economical and elegant solution to the Dell problem.

Maybe someone with the requisite equipment could offer it as a service?
I know I would much rather spend the money on a permanent conversion than an adapter.

You can go to most small computer shops and they can likely desolder it for you for cheap, ones around here would do it for $20 US

The simple answer is to do some continuity checks between the pins to verify the pinout.
I doubt they went so far as to reroute PCB traces in the board just for dell.

I had an Intel made Dell P-Pro board that I did something similar on and it worked fine.
Was not the same change-up as your project though.
Mine had two positions for ATX connectors.

It's pretty clear by the two pinouts pictured above that Dell wanted it 5v heavy.
Recommend checking for differences in POL (Point of Load) regulators.
.

Yes, I suppose it's possible that Dell made some changes to the specs of some of the other components too.

You might consider looking for a Dimension 4200 motherboard.
You lose a PCI slot but it's the same chipset, same # RAM slots and it uses a standard 20-pin ATX PSU.
They are also usually cheap because for some odd reason everyone wants the 4100 board.
.

I usually get a 20 to 24 pin ATX adaptor and rearrage the cables and there is also another molex connector.
Its is kind of tricky to remove the pins to re arrange but it is cheap and works.
Worked fine for me.

PCBONEZ wrote:

You might consider looking for a Dimension 4200 motherboard. You lose a PCI slot but it's the same chipset, same # RAM slots and […]
Show full quote

You might consider looking for a Dimension 4200 motherboard.
You lose a PCI slot but it's the same chipset, same # RAM slots and it uses a standard 20-pin ATX PSU.
They are also usually cheap because for some odd reason everyone wants the 4100 board.
.

Oh, I'm not actually in need of a board, if anything I have too many of them.
I got a bunch of old computers when my job was throwing them out. This board was pulled from a case that was damaged beyond repair.

It's funny you mention the 4100, that was one of rhe machines I rescued.

The connector thing was just something I noticed when this board was sitting on my desk, and I found it interesting.

The board itself is not that useful because it is a PPGA-only model.

I have always liked Dell's build quality, but have been turned off by the proprietary nature of the motherboards and power supplies.
I thought it might be useful to the community to do a bit of research.

.legaCy wrote:

I usually get a 20 to 24 pin ATX adaptor and rearrage the cables and there is also another molex connector.
Its is kind of tricky to remove the pins to re arrange but it is cheap and works.
Worked fine for me.

Yes, and you can also get a ready made adapter for around $10, so it's certainly not like there aren't other solutions to this problem.

It would be nice to be able to permanently convert these boards to ATX with no adapter needed though, wouldn't it?

Lets see...
Cost of Dimension 4100 motherboard + $10 adapter
vs
Cost of Dimension 4200 motherboard w/STD ATX power pinout - several between $19 and $27 at the bay right now.

Just sayin'
.

PCBONEZ wrote:

Lets see... Cost of Dimension 4100 motherboard + $10 adapter vs Cost of Dimension 4200 motherboard w/STD ATX power pinout - seve […]
Show full quote

Lets see...
Cost of Dimension 4100 motherboard + $10 adapter
vs
Cost of Dimension 4200 motherboard w/STD ATX power pinout - several between $19 and $27 at the bay right now.

Just sayin'
.

In my country i can't find the 4200 motherboard, however i acquired one 4100 for cheap.
The risk of importing through ebay and having to pay tax(in my country it can reach about 70% of the value) it is certainly worth the adapter, so i guess it depends on the country.

PCBONEZ wrote:

Lets see... Cost of Dimension 4100 motherboard + $10 adapter vs Cost of Dimension 4200 motherboard w/STD ATX power pinout - seve […]
Show full quote

Lets see...
Cost of Dimension 4100 motherboard + $10 adapter
vs
Cost of Dimension 4200 motherboard w/STD ATX power pinout - several between $19 and $27 at the bay right now.

Just sayin'
.

Depends on the circumstances - that only makes sense if you're building from scratch.

A far more likely scenario is someone who has a old Dell machine with a dead power supply.

For example, I already have a 4100, an l433c and an l550r, all of which are non-standard.

If one of my PSUs died, it would make absolutely no sense to buy a motherboard when I could just buy a $10 adapter (or perform a conversion).

Either way I would need to buy an ATX power supply.

@ jamesbeat
Yet here you are trying to modify a 4100 mobo to accept the ATX standard plug.

Back to your project.
Another option is to use the appropriate end of an ATX extension cable (as cut in half) and solder the wires directly to the mobo.
In other words create a pig-tail soldered directly to the board. Maybe 2 or 3 inches long.
You would have room to rearrange the wires as needed and one less mechanical electrical connection.
.

PCBONEZ wrote:

@ jamesbeat Yet here you are trying to modify a 4100 mobo to accept the ATX standard plug. […]
Show full quote

@ jamesbeat
Yet here you are trying to modify a 4100 mobo to accept the ATX standard plug.

Back to your project.
Another option is to use the appropriate end of an ATX extension cable (as cut in half) and solder the wires directly to the mobo.
In other words create a pig-tail soldered directly to the board. Maybe 2 or 3 inches long.
You would have room to rearrange the wires as needed and one less mechanical electrical connection.
.

Well I guess you just didn't read what I wrote.

Firstly, I'm not trying to modify my 4100 board, this is a spare board pulled from an l433c.

I'm not actually trying to modify any boards, I just noticed that it looks like it is possible to do so and thought it was interesting enough to share.

Secondly, if you read my previous post, you will see that I said that, in the event of a dead PSU, buying an adapter cable or performing a conversion would make more sense than replacing the motherboard.

It looks as though an ATX connector is too difficult to remove with the tools I have, or I would have tried it out on this spare board to see what happens.

I guess I could solder wires directly to the board to test it out. I may do that in the future as an experiment.