I've done it on a socket 8 machine. it REQUIRES a desoldering gun/station. I have a socket 370 board in the same situation as you, but its a project for a later day.

be patient, if you pull a single pad, the board is FUBAR. go slow, be gentle.

Desoldering from pc motherboards is usually annoying (due to tight holes and and multi-layers pcb).
Another approach: you can find heatsinks with Patent (without clips, only use screws to join heatsink with cpu) but with this way cpu is never perfectly aligned to socket.
I did it with Nexgen socket.

mt777 wrote on 2020-07-24, 22:26:

Desoldering from pc motherboards is usually annoying (due to tight holes and and multi-layers pcb).
Another approach: you can find heatsinks with Patent (without clips, only use screws to join heatsink with cpu) but with this way cpu is never perfectly aligned to socket.
I did it with Nexgen socket.

hi can you show me a picture of such heatsinks?

Curious if only one of the main tabs is broken ? Or are two broken ?
My socket 370 have two tabs each side meaning you can use one of two different heatsink types, one clamps on mid tabs (like your heatsink picture) other uses the offset tabs. Can you post a picture ?

Horun wrote on 2020-07-25, 02:05:

Curious if only one of the main tabs is broken ? Or are two broken ?
My socket 370 have two tabs each side meaning you can use one of two different heatsink types, one clamps on mid tabs (like your heatsink picture) other uses the offset tabs. Can you post a picture ?

sadly, both broke

SETBLASTER wrote on 2020-07-25, 02:10:

Horun wrote on 2020-07-25, 02:05:

Curious if only one of the main tabs is broken ? Or are two broken ?

sadly, both broke

Can you post a picture ? Maybe someone can come with an alternative to replacing the socket ( I see also that as the very last choice due to the chances of board damage)

If you still have the bits, J.B. Weld epoxy (the original, not the fast dry) would be worth a try.

A long time ago I remember an eBay seller who used to liquidate unused computer parts in bulk, and one of the items that came up was a box of something like 144 socket-370 ZIF sockets. I kind of wish I had bought that, but it seemed pointless at the time since I couldn't install them, and I still can't.

Years ago there was a post by mockingbird about pulling the plastic socket off the board, leaving the pins behind and then sticking a new socket over them.
Re: Socket 370 vs Slot 1 performance
I still need to try that, nothing really came up that provoked me to get that adventurous.
I wouldn't be brave enough to try it on something valuable like a dual CPU board though.

The easier workaround is to permanently epoxy a heatsink to the CPU and hope the socket will grip it tightly enough that it doesn't fall out. Or try epoxying the broken plastic if you still have it, as Repo Man suggested.

You can still buy NOS s370 cpu sockets on ebay.

Two different heatsinks. Pink heatsink is more designed to socket7 but I had in the past a bigger this kind version

I think a Lin Lin socket adapter would work here, but I just did a quick search, and it seems they're very difficult to find. Slocket adapters are cheap, so one of those would be a good source of a donor socket if you want to try that.

Today I learned that these sockets are just glued on. I like socket 370 for the easy heatsink/fan replacement. But knowing that my tower case is causing a large heatsink to just hang or pull against a glued on socket makes me question. Is this eventually going to fall off?

In the event of a broken tab (or fallen off?) socket 370, is there a method to make the replacement socket more secure? There doesn't appear to be any holes around it to put a rear support bracket behind the motherboard.

I remember seeing someone in this forum fix the broken tabs of the socket 370 by
- drilling 2-3 hole on the part when the tab is broken using pcb drilling bit by rotate it by hand
- put the small wire into the hole and fill it with eproxy for support, like you are using rebar to reinforce the concrete
- then he re-create the tab by manually molding the eproxy with the support bar
the result look pretty good imo.

a quick search show the exactly thread: Socket 370 repair, restoring a missing tab

In case anyone goes for a socket replacement, get a new socket. If you intend to use a donor-socket, don't use too much low-melt solder. It's a PITA to remove and clean MANY individual pins from the socket.
There are sockets available, but the shipping costs made it a no-go for me