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Cherry MX G80: dip switch missing, looking for a "before picture"

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First post, by Danger Manfred

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Hi,
I was transporting my Cherry MX 1000 G80 in parts (loosely put together) when they fell to the ground, the bottom case part went a different direction than the PCB on impact, and the AT/XT dip switch came off.
What's worse is it was on my balcony and seems to have fallen down from there, I'm completely unable to find it.
Other than that, I see no damage on the PCB, pictures of both sides of it, and where the dip switch supposedly sat, attached.
When I connect the PCB to any PC, I can use the caps, num and scroll lock keys to make the corresponding keys light up, but no keypresses are registered by the computer.

So anyway, I want to repair this, since it should in theory be fairly easy - all I need is connect two points so it's in permanent AT mode, I have no XT PC and don't plan on ever getting one.

But the problem is: I don't know how it is supposed to look where the switch was. I had hoped to find a schematic or a photo of an intact PCB, but couldn't find any.

Does anyone have an idea where I could get such a picture?

edit: added a picture of the info sticker

Reply 1 of 7, by majestyk

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If the switch was in the position you marked with a red box, just solder a wire in it´s place.

Reply 2 of 7, by Danger Manfred

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majestyk wrote on 2022-08-15, 06:25:

If the switch was in the position you marked with a red box, just solder a wire in it´s place.

I plan to do just that, but I'm not entirely sure these two pins are actually what it was connected to, so I hope someone can confirm it belongs there. I know it was in that area, and in my opinion these two look the most like something was attached to it, but I don't want to potentially kill the keyboard for good.

Reply 3 of 7, by majestyk

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From the top side there´s a small rectange visible, that was probably caused by some component.
From the soldering side you see that the two pins are still there in the solder, so the switch must have been removed with enough force to break the two wires.
If you can see the remainings of the wires in the holes from the top or if you find them when desoldering, the switch was most likely in this very spot.

Reply 5 of 7, by Danger Manfred

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Ethaniel wrote on 2022-08-15, 08:49:

Maybe these will help...?

That is EXACTLY what I was looking for, it's the same PCB with the same dip switch (there were ones with up to 4 options instead), and it confirms I was right about where the switch was supposed to be.

I will try soldering a simple cable there instead after work, then report back.

Thanks a lot!

Reply 6 of 7, by Danger Manfred

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My soldering skills are nonexistent, I have only soldered together cables up until now, with a hand of only thumbs and a 7€ soldering iron from Amazon, so pls don't judge me for how it looks, but.

It works!

Thanks a lot for your answers, especially the picture of the intact PCB!
I haven't put the case back together yet, but that's just a matter of 2 plastic halves and 4 screws. A formality for when I have slept.
And now I can sleep a lot better!

Reply 7 of 7, by Ethaniel

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Danger Manfred wrote on 2022-08-15, 20:37:
My soldering skills are nonexistent, I have only soldered together cables up until now, with a hand of only thumbs and a 7€ sold […]
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My soldering skills are nonexistent, I have only soldered together cables up until now, with a hand of only thumbs and a 7€ soldering iron from Amazon, so pls don't judge me for how it looks, but.

It works!

Thanks a lot for your answers, especially the picture of the intact PCB!
I haven't put the case back together yet, but that's just a matter of 2 plastic halves and 4 screws. A formality for when I have slept.
And now I can sleep a lot better!

Glad to know it worked!

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