VOGONS


First post, by ziggy587

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Update here: Re: ATX PSU Latching Circuit PCB for Momentary Switch
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Here's a little PCB I made for myself that I wanted to share here in case it can be useful to anyone. It's a latching circuit that will allow you to use an ATX PSU and case (with a momentary power switch) with an AT style motherboard.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/h6LgDD3k

4afOQRc.jpg

I have a baby AT board that I'm using in an ATX case along with an ATX power supply. I have one of those generic ATX-to-AT power adapters that I'm using. Such as this one...

41IEoCc+kaL.jpg

These adapters already break out the PS_ON and a ground wire (green and black) but you will also need the +5VSB wire (purple). My adapter did not have this pin/wire installed, which I'm guessing most wont since it wouldn't normally connect to an AT board. Adding the pin is easy, you just need a crimping tool. If you don't already have one, you can get a multi function crimping tool that does JST, Dupont and Molex style pins. This is very useful to have for making various cables and adapters for vintage computers. Otherwise, you can simply splice into the +5VSB wire from your ATX PSU.

Normally, you would wire the PS_ON and COM (green and black) wires (of the above pictured adapter) to the switch on an AT style case. But since I'm using an ATX case with a momentary power switch, I can't do that. So at first I just twisted the green and black wires together and used the standby switch on the back of the PSU to turn the computer on and off. This works well enough, but then I switched to a PSU that does not have a standby switch (it's a quality PSU that I decided to use for a number of reasons). So another option would be to wire the PS_ON and COM wires to a latching switch, and mount that switch on the computer case somewhere. Well, I didn't want to do that. Yet another option would be to get a little IEC C13/C14 cable with an inline power switch such as this one. Again with the PS_ON and COM wires twisted together, a cable with a switch like this would work well enough. And I actually got myself one of those cables just so I wouldn't have to leave the PSU always in standby (or else unplug it). But I wanted to be able to use the actual power switch that's on the ATX case, and since the circuit was simple enough I decided to go this route. I just wanted to list all of the options I thought of in case it can help anyone.

The idea with the mounting hole is that usually when using a baby AT motherboard in an ATX case you will have unused mounting holes in the case. So just use a typical motherboard standoff, the hole is sized for a 6-32 screw.

I made this PCB from a circuit that someone posted on Stack Exchange. You can find more info about it on that page: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questio … utton-as-switch

I have since decided to update my PCB with some LEDs for status indicators. One for the +5VSB signal, and another that should illuminate when the PSU is turned on. I figured this could be useful, especially for older boards that may not have any status lights or fans. As well as for newer PSUs that are so quiet it's hard to tell that they're on. I have this updated PCB on order, but have not shared it yet. When I get it in and have a chance to test it, I will post it if everything works as intended. See this post: Re: ATX PSU Latching Circuit PCB for Momentary Switch

And just in case it's useful for anyone, here's another latching circuit I found that instead uses a 555 timer: https://www.instructables.com/Latching-Moment … PSU-Conversion/

I went with the dual inverter circuit for now because it's slightly less complicated. The 555 circuit has roughly the same component count, but also requires the Power OK signal from the PSU. No big deal, it would just require one more wire from the main connector. I may build the 555 circuit at some point, just to mess around and see which one I like better.

Here's the cheap crimp tool that I'm using. I'm sure there are better ones out there, but this one seems to work decently. It comes with Dupont and JST pins and connectors. The crimp tool can also do Molex, but you will have to buy those pins separately.

Of course, everything is use at your own risk.

Last edited by ziggy587 on 2024-08-16, 15:40. Edited 6 times in total.

Reply 2 of 3, by ziggy587

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I finally got around to assembling and testing the revised board with the LEDs. It seems to work as intended. You can find it at the following link.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/iMUjh4R7 I consider this version to be deprecated , see next post.

6HcQyns.jpeg

It is the same circuit as the PCB posted above, with the addition of two LEDs. LED1 is for standby and will light up when there's a +5vSB signal applied (the PSU is in standby). LED2 is to indicate that the PSU has been powered on, and will light when you press the power button. Only I goofed with the silkscreen for the LEDs, they are backwards. If you build this, place your LEDs opposite of what the silkscreen indicates as the flat side.

LED1 is powered simply by connecting the LED to +5VSB and ground. LED2 is powered by connecting the anode to +5VSB, with the cathode connected to the PS_ON signal. PS_ON is pulled high when the circuit is first powered, and pulled low when the circuit latches. This seems like a safe enough design, and seems to work fine with the brief bench testing that I did with it. But if you feel there is an issue with this design, please let me know!

Last edited by ziggy587 on 2024-08-16, 15:46. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 3 of 3, by ziggy587

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I now have a few different versions of this PCB.

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Initial Release: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/h6LgDD3k

This is the first version that I made, and improvements have been made since then. The SMT parts are spread out more compared to future revisions, which some people might find easier to hand solder. It has been tested in a PC for several hours and found to work as intended.
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Revision A: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/cO3mFoYB

This is the same as the initial version, with two additions. One, it adds a decoupling capacitor for U1. And two, it adds a stop mask ring around the mounting hole (electrically connects the grounds between this PCB and the chassis). I have not tested this revision and have no plans to, but with such minor additions I would expect it to work fine.
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Through Hole / Surface Mount Version, 2 sq/in, Revision B: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/1MLgG0ho

This is an updated version that uses through hole parts (or alternatively surface mount parts). It has better control over the LEDs. LED1 will turn on when the power supply is in standby. When you turn the power supply on, LED1 will shut off and LED2 will come on. It is larger than the original version, 2" square (4 times larger). It has been tested in a PC for several hours and found to work as intended. A future revision will include an additional mounting hole for better support, I will share a link for it when it's ready.
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SMT version, 1 sq/in: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/f07pnuO2

This is the same as the THT/SMT version, but with the THT parts removed and shrunken to 1" square. I have not tested this version and have no plans to.
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Through Hole, 1 sq/in : https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DtCvp3Cb

This is the same as the THT/SMT version, but shrunken down to 1" square. You will have to orient the resistors so that they're standing tall. The LEDs have a footprint for 5mm, but you may need to use 3mm for better fitment. The mounting screw will somewhat overlap the edge of the board on two sides. I have not tested this version and have no plans to.
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Picture of the THT/SMT 2 sq/in version:

IMG_1070.JPEG
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THT/SMT, Rev.B
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