A mouse without balls and a tail is just not right.

Caluser2000 wrote on 2020-06-26, 09:33:

A mouse without balls and a tail is just not right.

Pika!

No wait, that's so wrong. 🤣

https://www.google.com/search?q=microswitch+w … w=1600&bih=1100
there are microswitches with levers but it looks mouse designers are too "smart" to use it for the scroll button...

ok, so i have added a levered switch for the scroll button in my mouse 😀
it's the lightest pressed button now 😀

at first i tried that button rotated 180 degrees (required unnecessary drilling one hole... and unnecessary shortening (cut) the lever too...)
but it was always clicking when scrolling up that way. Always 😀
scrolling down was ok if you were very gentle.

so i tried rotating it 180 degrees and it works perfectly now 😀
i think the click is a bit shallower now but not sure though

third pin had to be cut off and polished as not used in this mouse (steelseries rival 310)
pins had to be also polished on sides cause they were too fat in the button i used (i polished both sides but i guess i could just polish one side to even move the switch a bit to the side to soften it even more.

oh, the button is unnecessarily tied with a wire cause i broke one latch when tried to soften the button inside so i opened it and couldn't figure out how to close it 😉 untill now (almost 3 years) 😉 first i tried to close it with inside rotated 180 degrees which was not possible that way hence broken latch 😀 works perfectly tied up though 😉 i guess i should have bought a new one.. we will see how long it gonna work 😉

same method won't work in razer deathadder 1 as it has too low celing i guess (if it still works after cutting the case pillar 🤣) (cause the button is on the second floor)

if you have any questions feel free to ask 😀

first try required unnecessary shortening (cut) the pin too

checked again deathadder, it won't fit there

oh, the button is unnecessarily tied with a wire cause i broke one latch when tried to soften the button inside so i opened it and couldn't figure out how to close it 😉 untill now (almost 3 years) 😉 first i tried to close it with inside rotated 180 degrees which was not possible that way hence broken latch 😀 works perfectly tied up though 😉 i guess i should have bought a new one.. we will see how long it gonna work 😉

also i am not sure if my bending plates inside the button added some extra softness to the button

got two more switches of the same type and they are indeed very hard to press so i indeed modified the inside before to make it way softer. so i guess they might work 180 degrees rotated with a scroll if not modified but i am not gonna check that now.
anyway i got used to the shallower scroll and planning to change other buttons too to make them softer.
the harder part here is i cannot rotate them 180 degrees as they use all 3 pins so i have to soften them by modifying the inside again... or buy a softer ones somewhere. and also have to buy ones with out hole in the lever cause this hole won't allow using lever. the shop only had this switch. lots of shops disappeared recently during pandemy... checking hardness through internet is not an option for now...

correction to the previous post:

"first try required unnecessary shortening (cut) the lever too

checked again deathadder, it won't fit there"

just found this interesting mouse:
https://akiba-pc.watch.impress.co.jp/hotline/ … image/6btn1.jpg
https://akiba-pc.watch.impress.co.jp/hotline/ … image/6btn2.jpg

ok, so after i got used to slightly shallower clicking with new middle button, it started double clicking, triple clicking, not clicking and now i got auto fire 😀 never seen hardware autofire before btw 😉
i expected it to work longer than a month 😀

i changed the switch case for a new one and it works ok now. So the loosely wired case was the reason for double clicking. 😀
hope gonna work longer this time 😀

Since this got revived, I'll add that old mice seem to last longer before having double-click problems.

Logitech wireless mice went down the toilet in the last few years. Now the range is terrible, and they don't track reliably like they used to (the cursor moves in large steps instead of moving smoothly and sometimes keeps moving after you stop moving the mouse). I find them completely unusable, even for testing.

The Microsoft Pro Intellimouse (the "gaming" re-release from a few years ago) is the first mouse I've had the scroll wheel encoder fail on. I had to disassemble it and clean the contacts once, and I need to do it again (or just get a better mouse). I don't know why a mouse like that doesn't have an optical encoder, and it looks like a custom part instead of the usual PCB-mount encoder.

Then I got a Cherry MW 2310 2.0 for a laptop mouse, and it had some double-clicking problems the last time I tried it. It seems to change DPI settings randomly as well, and someone had the really dumb idea to make it run on two AA batteries in parallel (I've been using a single battery, but I haven't used it enough to tell how good the battery life is). On the other hand, it has decent tracking (not the wired-like precision of Microsoft wireless mice, but those eat batteries and have painfully loud left and right buttons), a more reliable microswitch for the middle button instead of a tactile switch, and good wireless range.

double/not clicking again for a few days now 😉
i guess i should have used a new switch as the connectors were already black instead of white (caused by broken case before, i guess).

on the other hand when i look that the time that passed is almost exactly the same i think it may actually be wear out "hinges" of a leaver. Which basically means at least this switch won't work.

Since I last posted here I retired my Intellimouses and replaced them with a pair of SteelSeries Rival 100's. I'm pretty satisfied, but note the following:

* There is no PS/2 support, so using them with old computers is out
* MOUSE5 is on left side, which was annoying to get used to
* Supports polling rate up to 1000 Hz, however this causes the old games I play (WC3, TF2) to malfunction, so I ended up lowering it to 125, same as the Intellimouse

While researching new mice I noticed something strange: why no white mice anymore? Nearly all are black. I don't like black mice (or keyboards) because it's hard to tell when they're dirty. The reason I went for the Rival 100 is that it's available in yellow, which is not ideal, but at least better than black. (Several of the old Intellimouses had also turned yellow over time.)

Uncontested number 1: Logitech MX510/518 - just a perfect shape and design for those like me with somewhat bigger hands. Nothing comes close.
Honorable mention: Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 - still rocking the one I bought when it was released, it completely changed the game with its precision at the time.

That's why there are still variants of both of those mice in production (with modern ultra-high-end gaming-grade sensors). The problem is that Microsoft used a terrible scroll wheel encoder in the new Intellimouse, but everything else is good.

I have seen some modern white mice, but they were all covered in RGB LEDs and speed holes for weight reduction.

I use the g pro. Works fine on 98 on my motherboards.

Had to replace all the switches, sides too, encoder, now the scrollwheel is all used up, encoder is again basicly dead, so thats next... But for feel, best mouse I ever used. Thats it for me, dont think a better mouse will ever exist for gaming and my delicate! hands.