I was inspecting the motherboard of the CM32L I just got and noticed there were some discoloured parts.
Is it from flux and the glue oxidising or are the caps leaking?
Just wanna make sure before I test power it on.
More pics
clearly it seems like liquid is escaping.
Not a leakage. It should be a factory glue.
https://youtu.be/BeDKwi-GJRI?t=39
Similar glue blobs are visible on a photo of presumably working board here: http://vgmpf.com/Wiki/images/1/1d/CM-32L_-_Internal.jpg
though it didn't degrade as much.
Welp its not powering on , the light flashes for like a split second then goes out again
The power jack looks pretty corroded so that might be the issue but I'm not sure
Here's a pic
Ah wait that pics kinda blurred , my bad
Worth checking the voltages on the PCB side to know if the PSU is up to the task.
I've been using this with a stepdown , works fine for my other stuff
Either way you won't go far without a multimeter. You need to probe the voltages, connectivity, etc.
AppleSauce wrote on 2021-10-03, 07:36:More pics
It does seem like glue, especially this cap here which is mounted sideways to the PCB.
The corrosion on the connector does look kinda bad though.
the first photo shows some white that doesn't look kosher. the brown stuff near the solder pads is, I'm guessing, Flux residue.
The other photos where there's lots of brown stuff under the capacitors, is glue.
That barrel socket definitely has seen better days, makes one wonder what the inside contacts look like.
Anyway, plug it in, turn it on, and measure the voltages.
Right to repair is fundamental. You own it, you're allowed to fix it.
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Funnily enough my soldering iron got here today , its still pretty cheap but it has adjustable temp unlike my older ones , I'm going to try swapping the corroded jack since it seems to be the simplest thing to start with , any reccomendations on soldering temp?
Also I bought some of these jacks for fixing some other roland gear , would these be a good bet for the cm32L?
400 degrees C is a good starting point.
Use solder braid/wick to clear joints of solder.
Work quickly if possible. Hanging around the board with lots of heat is a good way to damage pads.
Use 60/40 leaded solder to help you rapidly install new plug. Add extra 60/40 solder to the joints if you have difficulty melting the old solder.
Well I just replaced the jack , I have the exact same issue so it looks like its something else
Okay after inspecting the board it turns out one of the caps has burst , I didn't notice it because one of the original factory workers drew an A on it , after cleaning the marker off its definitely got a cut.
So that's 3 recap jobs i need to do now, one for a abit bf6 mobo project , one for a Aopen psu and now one for a cm32L.
I'm sick of seeing burst caps at this point.
I suppose I'll just do one big bulk order from mouser and get it all out of the way. 🙁
Okay on second thought I can't tell of its the dye of the marker or a gap.
I guess I'll have to test other components, any idea on what would cause the power to cut off just after switching something on?
