VOGONS


Reply 100 of 221, by CalamityLime

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Sphere478 wrote on 2022-06-25, 01:51:
CalamityLime wrote on 2022-06-25, 01:39:

yeah I was thinking that molex to berg cables are really cheap, so cheap I'd bet that you may have one or two kicking around your house. So if you wanted to DIY things, you could cut up a berg cable and rock on with your own thing.
I added the jumpers for 5/12v for the reasons I pointed out in the original post.

I also made the power out side a solder joint because it looks like you're expected to solder the wires to the interposer (unless I'm reading things wrong)

I’m going to examine it in physical form and see what makes sense. But spade or direct solder seems to be the way it is headed.

So do you want me to continue or are you deciding what ports you want?

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Reply 101 of 221, by Kahenraz

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If you want it to be optionally direct solder, then give it a through-hole footprint that can accept a terminal block for those of us who don't want to crimp our own spade connectors.

I like spades, but I hate crimping.

Reply 102 of 221, by Sphere478

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CalamityLime wrote on 2022-06-25, 03:16:
Sphere478 wrote on 2022-06-25, 01:51:
CalamityLime wrote on 2022-06-25, 01:39:

yeah I was thinking that molex to berg cables are really cheap, so cheap I'd bet that you may have one or two kicking around your house. So if you wanted to DIY things, you could cut up a berg cable and rock on with your own thing.
I added the jumpers for 5/12v for the reasons I pointed out in the original post.

I also made the power out side a solder joint because it looks like you're expected to solder the wires to the interposer (unless I'm reading things wrong)

I’m going to examine it in physical form and see what makes sense. But spade or direct solder seems to be the way it is headed.

So do you want me to continue or are you deciding what ports you want?

I’m talking about the tweaker. No effect on your part. Interested to see what you come up with. Thanks for contributing 😀

Kahenraz wrote on 2022-06-25, 04:11:

If you want it to be optionally direct solder, then give it a through-hole footprint that can accept a terminal block for those of us who don't want to crimp our own spade connectors.

I like spades, but I hate crimping.

I thought about a terminal block.

Seems like overkill. One of those big aluminum ones I mean.

But maybe one of those small green ones might be perfect..

I don’t think they can carry as much power as a spade though.

Crimping spades is easier than soldering terminal blocks.

Much of this, the user will come up with all sorts of ways to accomplish I suspect.

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Sphere's PCB projects.
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Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
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SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
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Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 103 of 221, by CalamityLime

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right so, I've ran the connections. Most connections are made with floods which should be good for noise and heat.

I also got it back down to a 2 layer board which is handy.

Unless anyone has anything to add, I think that's it. I'll leave it to sphere to name it and whatever final touches he wants to add.

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Reply 104 of 221, by Sphere478

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That’ll prob do the trick. 😀 good job!

Good layout. Nice and simple. I like it!

Think we can shrink tube it and cut out the switch part? Or will we have to leave it open? Will it need a fan?

This is going to be waaaaaay simpler and cheaper than the previous idea.

Sphere's PCB projects.
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Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
-
SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
-
Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 105 of 221, by CalamityLime

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Sphere478 wrote on 2022-06-26, 00:27:
That’ll prob do the trick. :) good job! […]
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That’ll prob do the trick. 😀 good job!

Good layout. Nice and simple. I like it!

Think we can shrink tube it and cut out the switch part? Or will we have to leave it open? Will it need a fan?

This is going to be waaaaaay simpler and cheaper than the previous idea.

The PCB is 18mm wide and the module is 14-ish mm tall, so you'll want a nice big shrink tube if that's your route.
A fan, I don't know, what's the most heat this thing can produce on paper?

Vin: 12v, vout: 1.8 = EFFICIENCY: 83.3
So 13 amps at 1.8v produces around 8 watts of heat?

So worst case it gets a little too warm for my liking in a tube but it's uncommon for a user to sustain that kind of a load so meh.

I really didn't know where else to put the the dip switch to make life easier but I did try to leave blank space for any blade in the area while you're cutting a hole.

What was your previous idea anywho?

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Reply 106 of 221, by CalamityLime

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Oh yes, forgot to note.
I added a LCSC product number to a few bits. I think the caps and the dip switch, not sure about anything else.
Open the schematic and bring up properties of the part.

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Reply 107 of 221, by Sphere478

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Previous idea was to build a vrm in the shape of a socket adapter like powerleap did. But then I got to thinking, that is going to be much harder for people to build, more expensive and relies on a number of parts to not go NLA. So it would only be a matter of time before it could no longer be built.

This way, we only rely on sockets for the interposer. And your device can be redesigned a hundred times if needed to fit the latest cheap vrm device to hit the market. Your device is a lot easier to re design also than the tweaker is also. So aside from the “making it compact angle” I think this approach is much better at giving everyone what they want at a cheap price, that is easy to build.

Btw, anyone who buys the sockets for this please post in the thread that you have them and share them around. Eventually they will dry up as well. And since they are sold in lots there are going to be loads of extras floating around.

Sphere's PCB projects.
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Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
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SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
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Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 108 of 221, by Kahenraz

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I am not an engineer, but I don't understand why building a small VRM is expensive and risky for parts being discontinued. Can't something be achieved with common jelly bean components that are pretty much guaranteed to exist forever in some form or another?

Reply 109 of 221, by CalamityLime

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Well personally i don't know much about vrms, i know the basics of buck converters and linear regulators but when it comes to things where noise matters, sluggishness matters and etc, I'm at a loss. I find it hard to understand and I lack the test equipment.

I'm sure it's possible to make something using jelly bean parts but you run the risk of people using counterfeit jelly bean parts and something important getting damaged. Noise from knock off buck regulators can be significantly higher than branded ones. That would matter for a cpu but not for basic things like fans, LEDs, even raspberry pi zero.

The linear supplies will probably be around forever, i don't think the lm317 is going away any time soon but for higher loads, it's not much good.

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Reply 111 of 221, by Sphere478

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Kahenraz wrote on 2022-06-26, 03:45:

I am not an engineer, but I don't understand why building a small VRM is expensive and risky for parts being discontinued. Can't something be achieved with common jelly bean components that are pretty much guaranteed to exist forever in some form or another?

When I looked into it to design the first version I found basically a few old pentium 2/3 and ss7 vrm controllers that were up to the job. Many of them looked like old stock Specifically the one I was designing around was chosen for the specs of it, dual inductor design, 500khz best of the best. Here is the issue:

The only place I found these chips the last time I looked was some guy selling old ones as a lot on ebay for a bunch of money. (A lot of money) I would have had to buy them and distribute them basically. When they were gone, no guarantee that I could have found another. The tweaker would likely have had to be re designed for another probably old vrm controller.

This way completely avoids all of that.

You don’t even have to use CalamityLime’s device. There are a bunch of random chinese power supplies that are for sale for like 10 bucks. That’s like as much or less money as the controller chip of building one yourself on the interposer, then you have to buy like 30 more parts on top fo that and solder them on.

Where as there are like 100 complete solutions of varying grades of output quality available right now that require no work. With the best ones being lab quality which should give a better singal than anything we could fit on the interposer. And the middle of the road ones being at worst equal to what the likes of kingston and powerleap used.

Yeah, this is not only the more secure way to go, but definitely the cheaper, and the easier way.

If you want it to fit all on the interposer though. A really easy way to do it though is the way 486 interposers did it, using a linear regulator and a few capacitors. But this way makes a lot of heat. Probably actually too much without doing dual regulator.

So the easy solution for on interposer is still more expensive, more work and worse result.

Yeah. I’m 100% convinced a external psu is the best way to go here.

But, if you wish to finish the previous design, you may take it and finish it, or adapt this current design to work with linear regulation.

It’s all gonna be more work and more money though.

Yes, as calamitylime said to the point of the crappy buck converters that I just know people are going to go and order for these, no matter what we tell them to do. Yes! a quality one should definitely be sourced. At the very least you should not try one that someone here hasn’t already tried and proven won’t blow up your chip. Because quite frankly. Some of the really cheap ones just might. There are specifications for noise in the datasheets for these units, and there are requirements for noise in datasheets for the processors sometimes. I would invite a member with extensive knowledge about this aspect to comment as to what to look for in a good vrm. What I know of the subject: more output caps the better, higher switching frequency the better, more inductor phases the better. And running the output wire through a ferrite choke may not be a bad idea.

Nice thing about a external unit is you can add capacitors to it and other smoothing equipment to it pretty easily.

One final and very important word of warning. Many of these converters are capable of output voltages far in excess of what the chip can handle. I’m talking it is possible to plug it into 12v and push 11v straight into the cpu.

DON’T DO THAT! Lol

Last edited by Sphere478 on 2022-06-26, 05:47. Edited 6 times in total.

Sphere's PCB projects.
-
Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
-
SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
-
Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 113 of 221, by Sphere478

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Kahenraz wrote on 2022-06-26, 05:20:

How much would it cost to do it with dual linear regulators with capacitors? If it's still a reliable design, I wouldn't mind building one to try it out.

The problems with that design probably mostly revolve around how you will find clearance for the regulator heatsinks around the socket/cpu heatsink on some motherboards and how to attach them. In a way that doesn’t get in the way of the processor heatsink.

I mean it’s doable, but more expensive and harder to build. (And a looooot more heat.) I mean these regulators will probably be pushing out half as much heat as the processor its self.

As for cost, shouldn’t be too bad. Maybe 40$ in parts on top of the interposer and the sockets.

There are clip on heatsinks. For the regulators that aren’t too hard to find

Basically imagine two of these things but with bigger heatsinks

And somewhere in there you are gonna need to find room for a power plug. (Or a cord, bringing us back to where we are now 🤣)

Btw, using lab quality power supplies, we may actually see new overclocking records with these cpus.

Attachments

Sphere's PCB projects.
-
Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
-
SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
-
Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 114 of 221, by CalamityLime

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I'd also like to point out that the image linked is for a socket 3, to convert a 5v socket 3 to a 3v socket 3.
The socket 3 cpus use a lot less power and make a lot less heat compared to socket 7 cpus. The AMD 486 100mhz cpu takes 3.6 watts (cpu world) and you can easily run that off of a LD1085, which is exactly what was done back then.

There is the LD1084 that can take 5 amps, two of those could probably take an mmx pentium.

There is also a LP2951 that's still being made by TI. A very similar chip was used on socket 7's for their vrm. It is linear and needs a good PNP to get going however to say that you can still get those parts you could probably get them for a while longer. Though stepping down to much lower voltages for amd's might be a bit much for them.

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Reply 115 of 221, by Kahenraz

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Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Aren't the regulators on the PCB going to be working in tandem with the motherboard to provide any additionally needed power? It sounds like they are going to be replacing it entirely, if they are being taxed so much.

Reply 116 of 221, by CalamityLime

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I poked around my board a bit and it seems that this is the schematic for the linear power supply of old.

Should still be able to make it today and up to 15 amps with a good PNP. You can set the vout with this formula: 1.235 X (1 + (R2/R3) ) = vout

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Reply 117 of 221, by CalamityLime

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Kahenraz wrote on 2022-06-26, 16:06:

Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Aren't the regulators on the PCB going to be working in tandem with the motherboard to provide any additionally needed power? It sounds like they are going to be replacing it entirely, if they are being taxed so much.

You could probably use the motherboard vrm to make the voltage for the IO but as far as I know we're looking to replace the motherboard core vrm with out own one. It's easier to replace the on board one than to work with it since the power draw will always favour the higher voltage and the load would be uneven, which could upset the regulators and make them produce more heat than they need to. An easy way of making two regulators work together would be to use some small value resistors on the out, something like 0.1 ohms, just to help them out.

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Reply 118 of 221, by Kahenraz

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Oh, I get it. You need to regulate the power on the adapter for all voltages that the motherboard can't support. I understand now.

Yes, a single linear regulator for this would need a massive heatsink and get brutally hot. I would still be curious to test it with a pair though.

Reply 119 of 221, by CalamityLime

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yes, this is also why super socket 7's used buck regulators since stepping 5v down to 2.0v @ 12amps would produce a lot of heat with linear equipment.

Though, I am curious how hot the pnp would get.

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