TheChexWarrior wrote on 2024-08-21, 11:14:

An first retro to Gameboy game launch party for Israel indursty in a Tel Aviv mall:
https://youtu.be/nloZGAHQUtw?si=ZLSEBP4xAS9Egyxe
https://youtu.be/xBTk28t0Q-A?si=LsOARHj4t692whif

As a huge Gameboy fan (have restored/modded three DMGs this year), I salute you.

I can't get enough of these. I'm suffering through a very hard to diagnose problem with a GBA right now that will hopefully not result in turning it into ewaste 😁

DaveDDS wrote on 2024-08-11, 00:39:

Repairing a TRS-80 Model100 - an early portable computers from 1983.
I've had one of these since the 80s (one of very few computers I actually
bought new) and still use it frequently.

Now that It's working reliably - I've been having a "blast from the past" with
the TRS-80 Model100 for the past few days - gotten into some things I'd never
done with it before such as writing and installing 8085 "machine language"
applications - I've been able to poke around it's internals at a level that the
built in BASIC simply does not accomodate!

M100.COM - Updated/Improved tool to move files between Model100 and PC
ASM100.COM - easily assemble 8085 machine language code and auto-build a
- BASIC program to place in memory
M100MON.ASM - Monitor program, allowing you to read/write memory & IO ports.
- Can switch it's "console" between LCD/Keyboard and TTY(RS-232), so it's
- easy to capture such information.

In case there's anyone else who still has one , I've made these available on my site:
-> Downloads -> M100TOOL.ZIP

Dave Dunfield - https://dunfield.themindfactory.com

Postman5 wrote on 2024-08-21, 16:53:

They want to keep making frags:)

Dang that and the Voodoo 2 repair are so *clean*. That repair on the FBI chip is just awesome, do you use a mill to remove the edges of the package or is it freehand?

Check out the mess I made of a QFP 😀 (when all I had was the dremel which is too big for electronics work): Re: What retro activity did you get up to today?

Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-08-22, 03:20:

do you use a mill to remove the edges of the package or is it freehand?

I can do it with a dremel under a microscope. It's nice that I'm not the only one.

Postman5 wrote on 2024-08-22, 07:54:

Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-08-22, 03:20:

do you use a mill to remove the edges of the package or is it freehand?

I can do it with a dremel under a microscope. It's nice that I'm not the only one.

Damn, that's some steady hands. I don't think I'd trust myself to do that.

Why not just use a soldering iron with a short length of copper wire wrapped around the tip? So of rolled up like a snake.

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-21, 21:21:

debs3759 wrote on 2024-08-21, 15:39:

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-21, 04:14:

🤣 great work, but is the slot PCB actually a Slot-A or a Slot-1?

They use the same slot - slot A id the exact reverse of slot 1 physically, so they can use the same slots on motherboards.

That's kind of ironic 😀

It makes perfect sense considering that it cut costs for motherboard manufacterers.

Postman5 wrote on 2024-08-22, 07:54:

Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-08-22, 03:20:

do you use a mill to remove the edges of the package or is it freehand?

I can do it with a dremel under a microscope. It's nice that I'm not the only one.

What kind of microscope do you use? I bought one of these a couple years ago and have honestly regretted the purchase because the poor resolution, overly processed image and lack of depth perception turn the display into a big mushy mess. Also, because of the placement of the microscope in relation to the shaft, I can't actually use it on any areas that are more than a few inches into the middle of a board.

I have tried the magnifier things that you wear on your head, but I have yet to find one with enough magnifying power to actually be useful.

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2024-08-22, 14:29:

What kind of microscope do you use?

Binocular microscope with a working distance of 150 mm

Postman5 wrote on 2024-08-22, 15:43:

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2024-08-22, 14:29:

What kind of microscope do you use?

Binocular microscope with a working distance of 150 mm

What brand and model? If I can find something comparable I would love to get one for detailed work like this.

EDIT: Is something like this actually decent? https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-SE400-Z-Profes … n/dp/B005C75IVM

I would prefer to get something better quality used for a lower price of course, but I know nothing about microscopes.

I use a standard AmScope single-boom binocular microscope, which may be similar to what Postman5 uses. That are reliable workhorse and great for repair work.

I've made a number of repair threads demonstrating its capability, if you haven't seen them before.

Intel Slot 1 slocket troubleshooting and repair

NVIDIA GeForce 4 Ti 4200 triage and repair

Minor trace repair on a motherboard

Intel TC430HX Socket 7 motherboard repair

I'll second the recommendation for an Amscope microscope. I have the AmScope SM-4NTP and it's been a workhorse. I use it with the binocular eyepieces. Haven't bought a camera and screen for it, and haven't really needed to.

The base is extremely heavy which makes the whole thing rock solid when doing soldering work. The last thing you want is the microscope tipping or moving.

Finished recap of my Soltek SL-75KAV and also rigged two black holders for the 3rd SDR slot.

What's left is finding a way to remove that damaged IDE2 plastic and swap in a good blue one.

It’s not that all of this was absolutely necessary for repairs, but once you start doing it, it’s hard to stop.

I don't know how to edit the message above.
Yes, i have a microscope similar to Amscope

PcBytes wrote on 2024-08-22, 17:26:

What's left is finding a way to remove that damaged IDE2 plastic and swap in a good blue one.

Frequently you can just pry those up with a sturdy blade and slide them up the pins.

Found a Softkey "One Stop CD Shop" volume 1, 11 CD bundle, so I am sorted for clipart and fonts for a while. Also realised I had another Compaq 17" Monitor lurking in the back of a stack, it's a Compaq V75 not sure if it maybe "belonged" to my PMMX deskpro or my SFF PIII-600 deskpro. Looking it up, supposedly it has some decently dark blacks.

Postman5 wrote on 2024-08-22, 07:54:

I can do it with a dremel under a microscope. It's nice that I'm not the only one.

Out of curiosity, have you considered or attempted refilling the removed plastic? I wonder if something like an epoxy resin could be used to restore the missing plastic.

Or would it just potentially cause issues with thermal expansion when the chip heats up...

Shponglefan wrote on 2024-08-22, 20:53:

have you considered or attempted refilling the removed plastic?

No, I'm not looking for a complete restoration. Just for it to work and be reliable.
I don't know what material to fill the missing plastic with. And it will close access to the damaged areas. The repaired connections are not as reliable as the undamaged ones.

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-21, 04:14:

Major Jackyl wrote on 2024-08-20, 21:55:

Oh my word. I wasn't up to this, but my brother made this abomination (for shiz and gigglez). I almost died of laughter when I actually looked at it closely. At first glance, nothing unusual, but well, a picture speaks a thousand words, 🤣

🤣 great work, but is the slot PCB actually a Slot-A or a Slot-1?

It WAS a Pentium3 550. I WISH I had at least ONE slot A CPU laying about to enjoy looking at, at least. The 754 socket is soldered to the board and now also has a 2x4 power connector on it (We building a spoof system now, 🤣)