myne wrote on 2024-10-07, 00:05:

Kb port getting power? Got a multimeter? Or some wire and an led?

USB does absolutely nothing? I thought most of those old boards at least had it enabled enough to get to bios.

I can probably scrounge up a wire and an led easier than figuring out the multimeter. What's the easiest way to test for power with a wire/led?

And yeah, this BIOS seems to have USB disabled by default. I don't think the board came with a USB header, so maybe they figured people could turn it on if they wanted.

Jam a wire in each of the kb holes one by one, led to ground, and touch the wire

Pinouts preferred

MeatballB wrote on 2024-10-07, 01:11:

[...]

I can probably scrounge up a wire and an led easier than figuring out the multimeter. What's the easiest way to test for power with a wire/led?

And yeah, this BIOS seems to have USB disabled by default. I don't think the board came with a USB header, so maybe they figured people could turn it on if they wanted.

CN6 and 7, in a very modern location below the bottom PCI slot (even if the pinout is a bit off), are the USB headers. Hadn't you already been playing around with them?

This thread is a real nail biter to follow. Hats off to op for patience, I would’ve probably given up aleady, thrown the MB in my spares bin and decided that I try to sort this out at later time when I have nothing else to do. Which most likely means that I never will.

myne wrote on 2024-10-07, 01:16:

Jam a wire in each of the kb holes one by one, led to ground, and touch the wire

Pinouts preferred

Will give it go at some point today. Unfortunately, my multimeter has probes way too big to fit into the AT holes and the Parallel port is jammed up close to the back, so I really can't get a good view or access to the back of it.

dionb wrote on 2024-10-07, 06:13:

CN6 and 7, in a very modern location below the bottom PCI slot (even if the pinout is a bit off), are the USB headers. Hadn't you already been playing around with them?

Yeah, I did initially, because when it had crazy BIOS, it must have had USB enabled and I was able to get in. Unfortunately, once I flashed back to a real BIOS, USB is disabled by default, which was fine until I cleared the CMOS for a problem and got stuck where I am now. If I can't get AT keyboard working, I can't get into the BIOS to enable USB or set up floppy drives to even try flashing with an edited BIOS.

CharlieFoxtrot wrote on 2024-10-07, 07:10:

This thread is a real nail biter to follow. Hats off to op for patience, I would’ve probably given up already, thrown the MB in my spares bin and decided that I try to sort this out at later time when I have nothing else to do. Which most likely means that I never will.

I won't lie, I'm close. 😀 I have 2 or 3 machines within my eyeline that could easily become a 'Windows 98' gaming machine, and while they aren't the exact time period, they're close enough that they could work. Gonna really try to get AT working, but if I can't, that may be it. Honestly, this all started based off my nostalgia for my first machine (Compudyne 486 DX2/50) and trying to get something working in that old case that would let me play some games a bit further into the 95-98 era.

You have a multimeter, but the probe is so enormous it won't fit in the huge at plug holes?

Use a paperclip 🤣!

rasz_pl wrote on 2024-10-06, 23:37:

MeatballB wrote on 2024-10-06, 22:52:

My bad, I thought that would have done it and when it saved the file, I thought I was good.

hmm, maybe its packed in some weird proprietary awdflash format? Its possible this file can be flashed back fine using awdflash

Looks fine to me

Take a photo of the winbond chip at the lower rear.

Btw does it detect and boot from a hdd?
Especially one you can plug into another machine?

Man, if only I knew what I was doing. 😀 Duh...paperclips. Sheesh. I've used them to short out ATX power supplies and keep then on, you'd think I'd have thought of that.

So, on the multimeter, what do I want to set it to/test for? I assume I want to test from the 5V pin to the Ground pin on the AT connector, correct? Does the machine need to be turned out when I do this?

And can't say for certain about booting to a Hard Drive. Even if it did, BIOS is halting on the Keyboard error, so it would never get past that.

All pins to any ground. Chassis,mobo screw hole, black wire, hot water pipe...
Yes. On. You're looking for volts.

Also follow that missing resistor in the top corner I mentioned earlier. It might be the kb ground pin and if it is, well,there's the issue

Here's a high res pic of the Winbond chip.

myne wrote on 2024-10-07, 12:38:

All pins to any ground. Chassis,mobo screw hole, black wire, hot water pipe...

Will update in a sec, see your response 😀

Edited ^

https://sharktastica.co.uk/resources/images/p … -at_180din5.jpg

Should be 5v on 5v
0 ohm on ground
Some number above 0ohm on clock (which also might be that missing resistor)
And again some number above 0ohm on data

Alright, testing continuity, both sides of that R15 seem to test positive for continuity to the Ground pin (4) on the AT connector.

For volts, going from the AT Ground Pin (4) to:

Clock (1): 0v
Data (2): 0v
+5v (5): 0v
Pin 3: 0.5v

Will also note with my ground probe just plugged into the AT Ground pin, I was seeing .4v or so on the meter.

No power. There's the issue.
It is on, right?

Hold on, I had the pinouts mixed up, and was looking at the plug pinout. So, redoing.

Voltage going from AT port Pin 4 to Pin, and just to make sure I'm reading these pins right, if looking directly at the port what side/direction it is. Which would make Pin 4 bottom right/southeast:
1: 0v (Far Right/'east')
2:0v (Bottom/'south')
3:1.5v (Far Left/'west')
5:0v (Bottom Left/'southwest')

Again, seeing continuity between those two R15 pads and 'Pin 4' on the socket (bottom right/southeast).

This should work.
Use an led with its cable (so it lights up) to jump 5v to pin 4 of the ps2 connector, and measure again.

Let's forget the official numbers for a sec and call them 1-5 left to right clockwise facing the socket.

4 should have 5v.

Measure that. If it's not 5v,jump it with an led and measure again.

LEDs are directional, so if it doesn't work the first way, try reverse

Also I realise the multimeter might not draw enough to light it. Hmm.
If you're careful a direct 5v wire shouldn't damage anything...

Nope. No joy on the LED. Tried jumping between the +5v/Ground on the PS/2 Connector and the AT Connector. I know the LED works, (came from my kids snap circuits kit) and I can get it to light up with the battery pack (4.5v). Tried both directions too. I dunno. Maybe it's time this board rides off into the sunset. 😀