Depending on the 3rd party IC-only supplier you choose, you can specify "new, original only" for the IC's and I have had good luck with this. When asked, they will often say if the part is or isn't new/original.

When I check the IC support list on my TL866II Plus, I see no mention of the EPM3064 or the ATF1504. http://www.xgecu.com/MiniPro/TL866II_List.txt

Similarly, when I check the support list on my Wellon VP-390, it also doesn't mention mention support for the EPM3064 or the ATF 1504. http://www.weilei.com/VP-390list.htm

As such, I am guessing that you used the TL866 to programme only the ATMEGA8A, then used the FT232H to programme the ATF1504? Can we order the ATF1504 pre-programmed? I recall seeing some of these options when ordering parts from Digikey.

Indeed, the HASL PCB's might reduce interest. If I ever have time for this, I'm going with gold contacts. The bracket can be mickeymoused if you don't have a 3D printer. This project is fairly low on my priority list because I already have two of the Rio444 original units, but could use another unit for my testbed. I was hoping that by the time I'm more eager for another one of these ISA cards, that the war in Ukraine will be over and I can merely order another adaptor from Rio444.

feipoa wrote on 2025-06-28, 05:06:

When I check the IC support list on my TL866II Plus, I see no mention of the EPM3064 or the ATF1504. http://www.xgecu.com/MiniPro/TL866II_List.txt

Similarly, when I check the support list on my Wellon VP-390, it also doesn't mention mention support for the EPM3064 or the ATF 1504. http://www.weilei.com/VP-390list.htm

As such, I am guessing that you used the TL866 to programme only the ATMEGA8A, then used the FT232H to programme the ATF1504?

Correct, that's why I had to use JTAG

feipoa wrote on 2025-06-28, 05:06:

Can we order the ATF1504 pre-programmed? I recall seeing some of these options when ordering parts from Digikey.

Yes they do offer it for the ATF1504. I don't know what they charge for this service or whether a MOQ applies however.

feipoa wrote on 2025-06-28, 05:06:

Indeed, the HASL PCB's might reduce interest.

Who's interest 🤣? I ordered a prototype run of 5 for me and me alone. I have zero interest in ever manufacturing assembled cards for sale to others, and I didn't want to dump any money into this before I was sure it would work.

I did sell 2/5 of the bare, unassembled PCBs to other members here at cost but that was offered only out of courtesy and I warned them about the substandard surface treatment.

I mean, the HASL PCB's might have less interest for people requesting your left-over bare PCB's compared to if those PCB's were ENIG. That's all I was saying. It's really not important. If I ever get around to this project, I wouldn't mind assembling extras for members for direct donations to charity. Same applies for any extras I've assembled.

WRT the mounting bracket:

If someone with more CAD experience than me could take a mechanical drawing of a regular keystone slot bracket and overlay the circle cuts from Rio444's image included with the firmware package to make a STEP, DXF or EPS file then anyone who wants one could just send the file to send cut send and get individual parts or short runs really cheap.

Come to think of it keystone might already have a step file available for the blank bracket. I'll check some EDA sites later

They do indeed!

Is there anyone here who could amend the attached STEP file with the three drilled holes shown in the attached image?

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 13:45:

They do indeed!

Is there anyone here who could amend the attached STEP file with the three drilled holes shown in the attached image?

Made a quick stl file. Not test printed it so don't know how it will fit. If you need a step file you can convert it online if you search for stl to step.

Yoghoo wrote on 2025-07-02, 16:18:

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 13:45:

They do indeed!

Is there anyone here who could amend the attached STEP file with the three drilled holes shown in the attached image?

Made a quick stl file. Not test printed it so don't know how it will fit. If you need a step file you can convert it online if you search for stl to step.

Thanks! I'll print one off to test fitment, but ultimately I'd like to get one made of sheet metal by send cut send.

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 17:03:

Yoghoo wrote on 2025-07-02, 16:18:

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 13:45:

They do indeed!

Is there anyone here who could amend the attached STEP file with the three drilled holes shown in the attached image?

Made a quick stl file. Not test printed it so don't know how it will fit. If you need a step file you can convert it online if you search for stl to step.

Thanks! I'll print one off to test fitment, but ultimately I'd like to get one made of sheet metal by send cut send.

You're welcome. I love functional 3D prints especially for my retro hobby but to be honest for this one I would just take a spare metal bracket and slowly drill 3 holes in it. 😀

haven't heard anything back from Rio444 , sent an email 4 days ago
I also read that some trouble was in that area because of the war so this is somewhat alarming - I hope it is nothing in the end

Yoghoo wrote on 2025-07-02, 17:11:

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 17:03:

Yoghoo wrote on 2025-07-02, 16:18:

Made a quick stl file. Not test printed it so don't know how it will fit. If you need a step file you can convert it online if you search for stl to step.

Thanks! I'll print one off to test fitment, but ultimately I'd like to get one made of sheet metal by send cut send.

You're welcome. I love functional 3D prints especially for my retro hobby but to be honest for this one I would just take a spare metal bracket and slowly drill 3 holes in it. 😀

You're welcome to, personally I don't trust that I could achieve the level of quality or precision I'd want using hand tools.

Are you able to export a STEP directly from whatever software you used to create the STL file? The STL printed fine but I've tried two online converters and neither would produce output that send cut send's website can parse.

The original STEP file works fine with their website, so I'm pretty sure the conversion is the issue

I printed a prototype of the bracket in PLA and it seems to fit perfectly, though at the original thickness it's far too flimsy to use obviously. I share a building with a dental lab who has a resin printer so we might try making a run of them out of resin.

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 18:18:

I printed a prototype of the bracket in PLA and it seems to fit perfectly, though at the original thickness it's far too flimsy to use obviously. I share a building with a dental lab who has a resin printer so we might try making a run of them out of resin.

Good to hear. Normally I design it from scratch and then it's easier to add some support here and there to make it more sturdier. Just making the whole bracket thicker is most of the times not a good solution as that will cause other issues (like not fitting in case or PS/2 connector not fitting well).

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 17:48:

Are you able to export a STEP directly from whatever software you used to create the STL file? The STL printed fine but I've tried two online converters and neither would produce output that send cut send's website can parse.

The original STEP file works fine with their website, so I'm pretty sure the conversion is the issue

I just opened the STEP file in Bambu Studio and saved it as an STL. After that edited it in Tinkercad and saved it. For a small 'project' like this that's faster for me then using Onshape or so.

Yep I also know from experience that making them thicker isn't a great option. Plastic is just a poor material for slot brackets, simple as

I was thinking of trying to get blanks that work and seeing if a machine job would be willing to do a small run. No idea what that would cost but I'll look into it when I get a chance.

Alright, I was able to follow maxtherabbit's instructions and get a board working! I did install the LED, no issues there.

Followed all his instructions and the only thing that threw me off was the make sure the FT232H is set to "I2C mode off" on the switch on the FT232H itself.

Have not tested all the different settings, but default COM1 settings and ctmouse detected the mouse wheel, which is nice.

Thanks for the write up!

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-07-02, 18:18:

I printed a prototype of the bracket in PLA and it seems to fit perfectly, though at the original thickness it's far too flimsy to use obviously. I share a building with a dental lab who has a resin printer so we might try making a run of them out of resin.

You'd better use PETg, it's strong enough.

Here is an STL flie of the slot bracket (w/hole) combined with the mounting tabs. I printed a prototype from PLA and it's not very strong, but good enough for me to use. Perhaps PETG would be better as Rio suggests.

Rio444 wrote on 2019-08-04, 08:36:

Yes that's right. To use the adapter with COM1, you need to free port 3F8h. To do this, you must either completely disable the C […]
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feipoa wrote:

I don't really mind about not being able to use COM 3/4. Is the benefit of using COM 3 or 4 such that you don't need to disable COM 1 or COM 2 ports in the BIOS? So if I set the emulator to use COM 1, I must disable COM 1 in the BIOS? But if I set the emulator card to use COM 3, then I can leave COM 1 enabled? Or have I misunderstood something?

Yes that's right. To use the adapter with COM1, you need to free port 3F8h. To do this, you must either completely disable the COM1 port, or change its address from 3F8h to 3E8h and then it will become COM3. You need to do this with jumpers on your multi i/o card, or in the BIOS, if the COM ports are onboard.

The mouse was one of the very first devices to plug into COM ports (together with modem). Therefore, de facto a mouse on com1 or com2 had become the standard. Manufacturers of other devices knew this and, as a rule, provided for the use of their devices on ports other than COM 1 and 2.

mothergoose729 wrote:

Hi, when can I buy one and how much does it cost?

Four devices were made. But they are already sold. For more devices, the necessary details had not yet arrived. Now almost all components are available. I plan to assemble a few more devices in the coming week. If paying directly to my credit card, price is 25 US dollars or 22.5 Euro + shipping (7 dollars for 1pcs, 9 for 2-3pcs). If paying through PayPal, it’s 2 dollars more, because PayPal charges a transfer fee.

Hello,

I have just sent you an email ...

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I’ve bought the boards and started developing my own firmware. It’s not fully functional yet — only some of the DOS drivers are working — but the whole project is completely open.

https://github.com/Yftul/ps-2-mouse-to-isa-replica/tree/main

Did the original firmware not workout well?