Figured out the CPU Vcore. Only four settings are possible: 2.45V 2.75V 2.9V 3.15V
IO voltage is fixed to 3.5V

Experimented with the other dip switches using a non-MMX Pentium 166 and MMX 166.

Couldn't get it right so far

Original setting for Pentium 100.

Rest of the dip switches are for onboard sound and vga settings.

DAVE86 wrote on 2025-09-08, 09:21:

I've got a slightly beaten up 'Multimedia Notebook Computer 862'. It's a socket7 notebook. The CPU and heatsink are missing. J […]
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I've got a slightly beaten up 'Multimedia Notebook Computer 862'. It's a socket7 notebook. The CPU and heatsink are missing. Jumpers on the motherboard and the internal psu board and I couldn't find the settings on the web. I was wondering if someone might have the manual or point me to the right site. Thanks!

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I can help partially? It's gone from the internet of course but google groups / newsgroup archives still had mention of this old page: https://web.archive.org/web/20040610062209/ht … ptop/index.html
It does refer primarily to the FMA86 (which I've got) rather than 862 and there are minor differences like working support for MMX CPUs, so the voltage table might be different.

There are some sub-pages too: https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://teytelma … du/~dim/laptop/*
I found the manual on driverguide.com: the first part: https://www.driverguide.com/driver/detail.php … driverid=616963 and 2nd part: https://www.driverguide.com/driver/detail.php … driverid=616964
But no dip switch settings in those 😒

Something I found helped a great deal the last time I was checking out mystery dip switches was to test with CPU removed, then use multimeter to check voltages, which I think is what you've done. Then an oscilloscope or frequency counter (my multimeter can up to ~50mhz) to check the clock pin to see what dip switch combinations give which frequencies.
The BIOS does show bus speed which helps but it seems like lots of the CPU speeds shown for pentium CPUs are guesstimages rather than exact, so figuring out the bus speed and multiplier is more reliable.
Since it's MMX capable there's probably a dip switch to set the BF1 pin as well as BF0. Then put them all into a table to keep track of what does what and try to guess what the various switches do, like this: Re: Need Help setting DIP Switches for FMA7600 Laptop CPU Upgrade

If anyone else has definitive information on the FMA862 then please mention it, I can't find much specific information on this later model.

edit: driverguide has now become a full-on scam site, here are the manuals:

Thanks Thermalwrong,

These old pages are actually helpful. I was able to spend little time so far, setting the switches and probing the Socket7. The switch settings are so random pattern. From the switch combination Cpu speed really ends up just like how the bios reports it. Only figured out FSB so far.

I received just yesterday a Network 862 laptop (or Nan Tan 862 - FMA862, if you please) that I bought from Germany for 10€. It was advertised and photographed as in working conditions but missing some external parts. So, I expected to receive at least a functioning laptop. Instead, besides having lost its smaller plastic panels from the bottom and its battery, above all it lacks its HDD and above all its HDD caddy, and has no power supply. So I am now wondering what to do. Power supply is probably the easiest thing to replace. But what about HDD caddy? watching inside the HDD slot, I can see a connector that supposedly corresponds to some smaller IDE port. How can I adapt an IDE drive or CF card reader or other storage unit to it and get it to work? At the moment I might only turn it on and maybe let it boot from floppy or CD, with a universal power supply.
With it also came an untested Gericom/Kapok or other brand 6200AT laptop (15€), which is complete and apparently in order but without its power supply, which I luckily found and ordered from UK for about 25€. When it arrives, presumably after Christmas, I will find out if this one at least works.
Any piece of advice for either or both finds? Thanks.

Mao wrote on 2025-12-16, 15:49:

I received just yesterday a Network 862 laptop (or Nan Tan 862 - FMA862, if you please) that I bought from Germany for 10€. It was advertised and photographed as in working conditions but missing some external parts. So, I expected to receive at least a functioning laptop. Instead, besides having lost its smaller plastic panels from the bottom and its battery, above all it lacks its HDD and above all its HDD caddy, and has no power supply. So I am now wondering what to do. Power supply is probably the easiest thing to replace. But what about HDD caddy? watching inside the HDD slot, I can see a connector that supposedly corresponds to some smaller IDE port. How can I adapt an IDE drive or CF card reader or other storage unit to it and get it to work? At the moment I might only turn it on and maybe let it boot from floppy or CD, with a universal power supply.
With it also came an untested Gericom/Kapok or other brand 6200AT laptop (15€), which is complete and apparently in order but without its power supply, which I luckily found and ordered from UK for about 25€. When it arrives, presumably after Christmas, I will find out if this one at least works.
Any piece of advice for either or both finds? Thanks.

Hmm, my one is packed away but looking at the old pictures that caddy is using a KEL connector - see here to see what I mean: Re: The elusive Toshiba laptop HDD connector
I can't remember if it's the male or female one but it's a KEL 8900 series connector with 50 pins. If it's a male one then you could replace with a simple PCB edge connector stuffed in there with some kind of IDE adapter onto that. But if it's the female type one then it'd be tougher and you'd need two PCBs - doable, I made a replacement Toshiba Tecra caddy connector using a two PCB setup there the top part solders to the bottom part, then a 3d printed housing to make the caddy work.

Here's the connector:

And here's the pinout of it:

It should be possible to get a PCB fabricated that's long enough that you could fix a CF > 44pin IDE to it and be able to push that in from the side. The pinout looks 1:1 with the excess pins (45 to 50) being used as additional power pins.
Booting will be troublesome because it'll only boot off of the hard drive or the FDD. However the floppy drive in your one is probably a belt driven Mitsumi D353F2 and the belts have all perished now. Replacing it with a direct drive like the Teac FD05HG or D353F3 works.

The 6200AT is a good find 😀 also has an unobtainable caddy but I haven't had to fix or replace one of those yet.

Hey, thanks for your detailed reply! I am afraid I will never be able to do that myself, even though I would like to. But I could start by recognizing the right parts.
This is a picture of the connector, and it looks like the male 50 pin connector, so the female is needed.
download/file.php?mode=view&id=232959

Maybe I am wrong, but isn't it the same connector used in IDE slim/ultraslim ODD?