VOGONS


MSI PM8M3-V H

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First post, by Ydee

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This thing drives me crazy, but before I give up and end up in a recycling center, I'll try to consult with more experienced members.

I tested the board after buying it on the fleamarket, it was functional, so I installed components, installed OS W98SE and WXP on two hard drives and for a while everything was OK. Then one morning after powered on the PC was left with a black screen, no boot or beep, just rotating fans on the CPU and in the case and HDD LED was permanently light on.Even after unplugging the components and leaving only the CPU and RAM, deleting the CMOS and restarting it, nothing changed, so I decided I was out of luck and the board went to silicon heaven.

I removed it from the case and, while trying to measure the power circuits, managed to short circuit the mosfet in the VRM (description here Possibility of FET replacement )
After replacing the mosfets, the board ran fine, booted the system, and I ran some tests to verify that the replacement did not affect stability and functionality (3DMark, SuperPi, Prime95). To my surprise, after shutting down the PC at the next launch, the same fault again - no boot, no beep, black screen.
I tried a different CPU (Celeron and P4), a different RAM (Micron, Adata), a different AGP (FX500, GF6600GT, even onboard), a different PSU (Fortron 400W, Seasonic 380W) - no change.

The diagnostic card shows either no code or 0 and 00 (which I don't think are diagnostic codes) depending on which PCI slot it is located in. The fan on the CPU is spinning. The LED HDD activity is permanently lit. The reset button doesn't work. It is necessary to switch off the PSU with a switch on it.

What is incomprehensible to me: if I leave the board for a day, two without the CMOS battery, and then turn it on, always booting with the beep for the first time, it can be entered into the BIOS and configured, after the restart the lottery begins - sometimes it boots again, sometimes it falls back into the state of the fault described above. I noticed a strange voltage monitoring behavior in setup - for Vbat (which is the voltage of the CMOS backup battery, am I wrong?) BIOS reports a 3.21V, although the battery is removed from the slot and I will not measure any voltage on the contacts of the slot. If I shorted the contacts with my finger, the reported voltage will fall below 1V. Another peculiarity is the permanently illuminating HDD LED, although no HDD is connected. The CMOS battery is new, fully charged with 3.3V.

Given the board's unreliability, I can't use it in any rig, but before I take it to a recycling center, has anyone encountered a similar problem or can't think of someone where the root of the problem might be and how to solve it? The board would be a suitable candidate for dual boot W98SE/WXP. I did get a similar one with VIA K8M890, but there the VGA card blocks one of the two PCI slots with the cooler and I can't use 2 sound cards (Audigy 2 for WXP and EAX, ALS300 for W98 and DOS).

Thank you for your time.

Reply 1 of 6, by Ydee

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When measuring the components on mobo, I detected a possible shorted diode next to the southbridge, marked as "M1". It's passable in both directions, which, with my poor electronics knowledge, it probably shouldn't be, right?
Now I need to find out exactly what it is so I can get a replacement. According to information from the internet, it could be Schottky's diode 1A, 50V - can anyone confirm that to me? Thank you.

Reply 2 of 6, by DudeFace

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Ydee wrote on 2026-01-17, 09:37:

When measuring the components on mobo, I detected a possible shorted diode next to the southbridge, marked as "M1". It's passable in both directions, which, with my poor electronics knowledge, it probably shouldn't be, right?
Now I need to find out exactly what it is so I can get a replacement. According to information from the internet, it could be Schottky's diode 1A, 50V - can anyone confirm that to me? Thank you.

ive been meaning to reply as ive got a pretty similar board and have the same issues, its 100% ram related as these boards or probably Via chipsets are very picky when it comes to ram. i think fucky would be more accurate, ive got an AGP board which looks near on identical to yours and a later pci-e variant and both do exactly the same thing.

The attachment MSI PM8PM-V.jpg is no longer available

sorry for the late reply hopefully you havent thrown it out yet, these make good boards for retro builds, it should have official driver support for win95 upwards, my board has had all the 6.3v 1000uf caps replaced as they were bulging/leaking (only 11 in total 🤣), the board did still function fine and i used it for a while before i replaced them, mine had caps with Y shaped tops so it was clear to see they had failed, your caps have different tops they dont tend to bulge when they fail so not so obvious, its something to bear in mind.
heres a pic of my pci-e board which is a couple of years later than the AGP board, you can see the Y top cap is bulging the others around it look ok but they may not be with 20yr old boards you can never be sure.

The attachment MSI P4M900M2.jpg is no longer available

i dont think thats your issue i think its ram, anyway yesterday i was swapping out sticks in the AGP board, it has two 1gb sticks of ddr2 5300U 667mhz as these were the only two sticks that work together and give me the full 2GB, i had to go through at least 10 different sticks mixing and matching, some sticks just wouldnt work and i'd just get a blank screen on post, others would only detect half of one stick, if i switch them around to different slots, no boot.

so i took out the two 1GB sticks and stuck in a 256mb stick i had used in this board before and it wouldnt boot in either slot, i gave up with that one and tried a 512mb which i know also works in this board, and again black scrren on post tried the other slot and it booted! i then turned it off, and when i turned it back on black screen! ffs. in the end i stuck the two 1GB sticks back in and its now working fine without bullshit.

the pci-e board is exactly the same, it either supports 2GB max or 4GB, i tried two 2GB sticks and it only detected 2.5GB of ram i swapped the sticks to opposite slots and no boot!, after mixing and matching like 10-15 sticks i managed to find a 2GB and 1GB that will give me 3GB max, if i swap the sticks to opposite slots, again no boot, it was driving me mad!

now i just leave those sticks in, if i forget which slot i took them out of i have to do this shit al over again, so now i just dont touch them, you should be able to get it working with a load of perseverance and a load of sticks of ram 😀

also this may be relevent, i just noticed on both boards the stick in the left slot is single sided and the right one is double sided.

Reply 3 of 6, by Ydee

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Thanks, I can try other memory modules—I have plenty of them—but I’m not holding out much hope.
The motherboard worked right after I bought it; I installed Windows 98 and XP, and everything worked for a while before it suddenly refused to boot one day.
Then I managed to short-circuit a transistor in the VRM, and after replacing it, it worked again for a while, and then it started behaving as described above.
The diode isn’t the problem either—after desoldering it, it was only conductive in one direction, so the measurement in the circuit was misleading.

It always boots up the first time, but after a while it shuts down, or it won't start up after a restart. I have to let it sit for a while, and then it boots up again.
Thanks again for your opinion and insights.

Reply 4 of 6, by DudeFace

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no worries 😀 hope you get it sorted, best thing to do is check the manual or MSI's site for exact make/models of ram, if after that its still playng up i would change the 6.3v 1000/1500uf caps, all 11 of them on my board had failed, these seem to be the common caps to fail no matter the make/model of board, after realising my board has good compatibility for dos/9x upwards i thought it was worth spending £20 on panasonic caps despite only paying £2 for the board, i thought it was worth saving and 8yrs on still works good!

Reply 5 of 6, by vintageonthemoon

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i have a similar board MSI MS7222 ver 2.0 (MSI PM8PM 2.0) and thankfully it works but it needed recapping badly. it took MSI a very long time to recover from the capacitor plague. almost every board i have from MSI pre-2008 had bad caps. MSI, ABit and Dell hit the worst when it comes to bad capacitors.

Reply 6 of 6, by momaka

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MSI did indeed have problems with electrolytic capacitors failing on their boards, but I don't think that's the issue here.

Thing is, failed/failing electrolytic capacitors will perform the worst when they are cold. The fact that both of you here have boards that boot fine when cold but not when hot eliminates the caps being the issue almost right away (though I will note that no one should ignore their capacitors if they have an older MSI board - the area around the CPU usually uses good capacitor brands, but elsewhere on the board MSI usually uses Teapo or OST... unless it's a newer board as is the case with O/P's, which can be seen to have Panasonic caps, which are of excellent quality... so that further reaffirms my notion above that the caps are not the issue here.)

Whenever I hear someone mention a board is "picky" about the RAM, especially if it appears to randomly work with the same sticks of RAM when re-arranged, the first thing that comes to my mind is some kind of communication issue (i.e. hardware fault) between the RAM and the memory controller... and most likely being caused by bad BGA and/or failed chipset.

For Intel -based boards prior to the 2nd gen i-series, the RAM controller was located in the Northbridge. Therefore, the fault could be in any of the following:
- bad contacts in the RAM slots
- bad BGA under the Northbridge
- failing Northbridge (or rather memory controller in the NB)

For AMD going forward with socket 754, the memory controller was moved onto the CPU. So for AMD boards that are "picky" or "sensitive" about the RAM, the following are more likely to be the cause:
- bad contacts in the RAM slots
- bad BGA under the CPU socket (certain OEM stock cooler retention brackets tend to put too much pressure, warping the board around the CPU and causing BGA failures over time)
- failing memory controller in the CPU (very rare, but I do have a confirmed case of this.)

My suggestion would be to start with cleaning the contacts in the RAM slots. IPA + cleaning with a brush, along with a number of RAM insertion cycles should be good enough for that. But if this doesn't resolve the issue... well the next most likely candidate to cause these kind of "random" faults is actually the BGA under the CPU socket, even though this isn't directly in the path between the memory controller and RAM. The reason I mention this is because OEM LGA775 coolers (especially of the push-pin type) are notorious for warping the motherboard and causing latent failures. It's actually surreal how often this happens - at least in my experience dealing with old 2nd-hand parts. So with that said, if you got the board to boot with a certain RAM configuration once but not again in another boot attempt, my suggestion would be to try and run the board on a flat surface with the CPU cooler only sitting on the CPU (with thermal compound, of course), but without being tightened down. In particular, if you get the board to boot, see if pressing on the CPU heatsink or Northbridge cooler makes the board crash all of a sudden. If yes, you've pretty much narrowed down the fault to either CPU socket BGA and/or NB BGA (with the NB BGA being many many times LESS likely to be the problem here.)
Lastly, and this is probably the worst news, is a failed/failing Northbridge. I know this sounds unlikely (and I also don't want to fearmonger about VIA chipsets), but I have seen several cases of VIA NB's failing - one of them on my own boards. The first time someone suggested this to me was a member on another forum who was trying to troubleshoot a s939 board (I forgot which board and chipset exactly.) Then, about a few years later, I had artifacts in BIOS and prior to the OS loading on my ASUS K8V-SE Deluxe motherboard (VIA K8T800 / VT8383). Furthermore, the artifacts disappeared once the system warmed up. Generally such symptoms would suggest a GPU failure... and that's all I though of it too (my video card at the time of this first happening was an XFX GeForce 6800 XT AGP that I got 2nd hand in not working condition). But then, I replaced the GPU with a GeForce 7600 GS AGP that I have used in other systems and knew was 100% working. When the same artifacts appeared on a cold boot again, but then didn't once the system warmed up, I knew something was not quite right. I tried playing around with various AGP settings in the BIOS, but none of it help... and I knew that would be the case too, because I had used both of these cards in this same exact motherboard without this issue. To reaffirm I wasn't just imagining things, I tried a trusty plain Radeon 9600 video card. When I saw the graphical artifacts in BIOS on a cold boot with that, the coffin was sealed: the chipset on my K8V-SE Deluxe is failing. No further questions.
With that said, it seems that nVidia chipsets aren't the only ones with problems (that is, nForce 4 series and newer.) Looks like VIA also might have produced unreliable chipsets probably starting around the Athlon 64 s754 era. Of course, compared to nVidia, the failures seem to be a lot more rare (or maybe more of them got dismissed as quirky "VIA doing VIA things" issues??) On the same note, I have also seen failing Ali chipsets from that era. So maybe everyone got affected during that era. The only two manufacturers I have nothing to say about is SiS and Intel. For SiS, I just haven't gotten that many board with them, so I simply don't have a large enough pool of data. As for Intel, if there is one thing they did right in that era, it was their chipset reliability: anything from the i8xx and i9xx generation is tougher than a hard rock.

Anyways, I'm getting carried away about talking about chipset reliability here... but in the grand scheme of things, I think this is where the O/P's motherboard might be headed. Well, either that or bad BGA under the CPU socket, since those are also rather frequent failures on LGA 775 boards. The last thing to try if nothing seems to make the board work better and if you're thinking about e-wasting it: reflow/re-heat. First try the NB, since that is usually easier and safer. If that doesn't do it, you can try the CPU socket (though these tend to be harder to do, mostly because the CPU socket has to be stripped of the metal parts, taped up on top with kapton tape to avoid melting it... and overall requires quite a bit more heat both on the top side and bottom side to assure the board doesn't warp from temperature differences.) Or alternatively to e-waste: chuck it on eBay "for parts or repair" or on whatever local classifieds website you like to use. I personally keep all of my bad boards for parts donors. The caps and the MOSFETs are typically the first to get used up, though I also occasionally dig in for various MLCCs whenever I get a video card with a bunch of them missing on its back (and I get those quite often.)