It's slot-1, the only thing I'm worried about is that there are no vcore adjustments.
I think my slocket has some voltage jumpers though.

The board is an Asus P2-99.

Just an update.

The computer has been stable since I performed the mod with exception of cold boots. At times it would get hardware diag failure showing VCore at 1.8~1.9v then just reset the system and usually it would detect at 1.45v again. I JUST installed the VID mod bridging AM34,AM36,AL35,AK36 which is the default 1.45v. I'm typing on the rig now and first cold boot went fine. Hopefully that will be the last of my issues but we shall see.

Thanks for letting me rant 😀

Good Luck TheLazy1, Looks like the lunchbox had a article about Generic Sloket mod. If you haven't seen it already.

Pics of the slot 1 board with on the screen the 1.3Ghz? Would be very nice to actually see, like if it reports 1.3Ghz in the boot screen 😀

RogueTrip2012 wrote:

Just an update. […]
Show full quote

Just an update.

The computer has been stable since I performed the mod with exception of cold boots. At times it would get hardware diag failure showing VCore at 1.8~1.9v then just reset the system and usually it would detect at 1.45v again. I JUST installed the VID mod bridging AM34,AM36,AL35,AK36 which is the default 1.45v. I'm typing on the rig now and first cold boot went fine. Hopefully that will be the last of my issues but we shall see.

Thanks for letting me rant 😀

Good Luck TheLazy1, Looks like the lunchbox had a article about Generic Sloket mod. If you haven't seen it already.

Can you give me a link on the VID mod you used? I might give it another try...

F2bnp wrote:

RogueTrip2012 wrote:

Just an update. […]
Show full quote

Just an update.

The computer has been stable since I performed the mod with exception of cold boots. At times it would get hardware diag failure showing VCore at 1.8~1.9v then just reset the system and usually it would detect at 1.45v again. I JUST installed the VID mod bridging AM34,AM36,AL35,AK36 which is the default 1.45v. I'm typing on the rig now and first cold boot went fine. Hopefully that will be the last of my issues but we shall see.

Thanks for letting me rant 😀

Good Luck TheLazy1, Looks like the lunchbox had a article about Generic Sloket mod. If you haven't seen it already.

Can you give me a link on the VID mod you used? I might give it another try...

The VID Mod is here: http://www.geocities.ws/_lunchbox/vid_mod.html

Heres a pic of the cpu pins for the VID mod. http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/attachm … 04&d=1102914458

The chart can be a little confusing at first. When looking at it the 0's are tied together or "bridged". 1's are not tied together.

Since the VID mod everything has been great with no more cold boot issues.

So, I only have to connect VID0 to VID1 and to VID25mV?
Can I use any household products to do that or do I need something else?
Thanks for helping out 😀

EDIT : Ok so I broke the required pins and the Tualatin boots on my motherboard. 1.45 volts and booted WinME. At first it seemed fine, CPU-z detected the processor and all but only moments later the system hang. I tried a few things, it seems to always hang for one reason or another, vga drivers would get a bit fucked up, setting 16colours as default and requiring a restart to change it, corrupted files, basically all the signs of an overvoltaged CPU.
I used to run a K6-2 400 on a mobo that gave it a bit more Voltage than it needed and it would produce similar problems.
So I have to do the mod to get it to work properly or is it something completely different? The machine seems to be stable on WinME Safe mode.

YET ANOTHER EDIT : Using Everest I'm able to complete a slew of benchmarks. CPU never goes beyond 64C which is nice considering I'm running it on an AT style case with basically no fans on the case itself. 🙄

First are you running the newest bios available? I remember a few saying using a newer bios smoothed things out. I'm using some beta bios that was available off asus ftp site. I was already using the beta bios when I did the mod and never had any stability issues other than cold boots. I do have a couple 120mm fans to help cool my system. Asus Probe usually reports 45~49c while everest will report around 33~36c.

from there you need to tie the Vid0, Vid1, Vid25mV, and VSS together. I listed the pins in the above post. They are all right next to each other which is rather nice.

I had a old broken fan so cut a wire out then stripped the insulation off to get one of the strands. I started by using a mechanical pencil. have a little amount of pencil lead out and loop the wire strand around the lead a few times, this loop can now be used to hang onto your first pin. I used my thumbnail (I had some length at the time on them) to hold that loop down while I would loop the wire along the other pins. I didn't bother with making it permanent incase I wanted to increase the voltage in the future. Make sure that you don't touch any other pins of course.

I reformatted and the system is kinda stable, sometimes it just restarts for no reason or hangs. I have the latest bios and my CPU runs at about 50-52C. I can't access the Display options though, whenever I try to the PC restarts.
I'm guessing that this mod will fix everything. I'm going to give it a try although it sounds extremely difficult to pull off.
Thanks for the tips and help 😀

AT style cases weren't known for their great cooling. You should use a good PSU, preferably with a 12cm fan (often AT cases don't permit these) which has a fast moving fan.
Iirc more then 50c wasn't exactly cool for an idling Tualatin. The P3's with IHS (=Integrated Heat Spreader) had lower maximum temps then the ones with the bare die.

Well, it never exceeds 60C so it's ok. I don't really care about temperatures, I'm not interested in overclocking and such and as long as it doesn't go over 65 or something, it'll be ok 😀.
I'd like to change the case, but unfortunately it won't fit in the space I've assigned for my Retro PC and changing is not an option 🙁.

I try to run all Tualatins at 1.3Volt, which is the lowest setting supported by both of my Tualatin Socket Adapters. I have read Tualatins will still run on 1.1 Volt if desired. Lowering the Voltage is the best way towards lower CPU temperatures.

1.45 is lowest my mainboard supports apparently!

Oh wait, I get it, you mean that by using the cart I can force a certain voltage that my mainboard may not even support? So I can possibly do 1.3V?
That'd be sweet!

Edit: I did the mod, but it still reported 1.45 V in the BIOS and Everest and was still unstable. I tried using 100MHz FSB and RAM but the result was exactly the same...
I'm thinking of doing the green bridge in this mod: http://home.arcor.de/frogge/pepper/tua/tuareport1.html
It supposedly increases stability. Perhaps it will work?

If not, what else should I do 🙁?

F2bnp wrote:

Oh wait, I get it, you mean that by using the cart I can force a certain voltage that my mainboard may not even support? So I can possibly do 1.3V?
That'd be sweet!

Well, I guess the mainboard VRM still has to support the desired voltage. (Unless one uses the "Powerleap" Tualatin adapter with its own VRM) But all socket 370/Slot-1 mainboards I have here support 1.3 Volt, I have about five of them. I use an Upgradware Slot-T and a Lin-Lin Tualatin adapter.

F2bnp wrote:

1.45 is lowest my mainboard supports apparently! […]
Show full quote

1.45 is lowest my mainboard supports apparently!

Oh wait, I get it, you mean that by using the cart I can force a certain voltage that my mainboard may not even support? So I can possibly do 1.3V?
That'd be sweet!

Edit: I did the mod, but it still reported 1.45 V in the BIOS and Everest and was still unstable. I tried using 100MHz FSB and RAM but the result was exactly the same...
I'm thinking of doing the green bridge in this mod: http://home.arcor.de/frogge/pepper/tua/tuareport1.html
It supposedly increases stability. Perhaps it will work?

If not, what else should I do 🙁?

So you did the 1.45 Vid Mod? Bios should show 1.45 then. This is still on a CUSL2-C as well? I haven't seen many post about this mod failing.

During testing on my cold-boot issues I did set my jumpers manually instead of auto and never set them back, dunno if this helped or just, just lazy and never switched back to jumperless.

Are you running a good PSU by chance? I have a 400Watt PSU that appeared to work on all boards except my 2x TUSCL2-C and 1x CUSL2-CBP as the system fans started but no post on any of them. It was weird because even my Soyo TISU worked on that PSU. Wasn't until a later time trying another PSU and re-testing all the boards that they did work.

Something about these ASUS boards draw some power even more so than other boards using the same chipsets.

Doing some more digging I found some have resolved issues of clearing the bios when VCore was jumping around. Worth a shot.

EDIT: I am using a X-Clio 500W Goodpower PSU btw.

Ok, let me tell you exactly what I did:
First off, I just removed the 3 pins and the PC booted. Voltage was 1.45V which is the default. I could usually boot into Windows ME, but it would hang in a matter of minutes and there was always a system message about some files being corrupted and colors were stuck at 16, no matter what I did. I tried installing my old processor (Coppermine 1GHz) and the system errors continued. I decided to format and install Windows again, with the Tualatin this time just to be sure. This is happening on a CUSL2 (I'm pretty sure the C variant just removes the integrated graphics card!).
After installation, I had pretty much the same problems for the most part, perhaps a little more stable system. I could usually run one thing at a time and it would run fine, but if for example I ran a game through DOSBox and played a midi file at the same time, the system would crash. I didn't do the 1.45 Vid Mod, I tried to do the 1.30 one and it probably failed, because the system was still reporting 1.45V in BIOS and in Everest. My guess is that the mod however is only for those motherboards that have no way of controlling FSB by the user. Mine has that option with the latest bios, but the lowest selectable is the default voltage of the CPU. So for the Tualatin it's 1.45V and for the Coppermine is 1.7V. Does it also do something else? Should I do the 1.45V one? I tried connecting the two pins that I showed in that guide (green bridge), but failed, the system wouldn't boot, everything was fine though once I removed the cable. Switching back to my older processor, everything seems to be in order, no crashes whatsoever. Perhaps I should get a Tualatin board and stop messing around 😜
What you said about PSUs though intrigued me. Even with the Voodoo 5 in there, this system should never need anything more than 330Watts on Full Load. My PSU is 400 Watt (although not of any real quality). I might try with a couple of other PSUs and see the results, I really hope that's the problem (I kinda doubt it though).

Thanks for you help 😀

Oh this is great...
I tried to do the mod and I've probably killed the CPU...
I'm giving up on the Tualatins. They just don't want to work with me 😜

Or just get a Tualatin board 😜

And another Tualatin CPU too... I say fuck it, I'm ok with what I have...

F2bnp wrote:

Oh this is great...
I tried to do the mod and I've probably killed the CPU...
I'm giving up on the Tualatins. They just don't want to work with me 😜

Sorry about your disappointment.
I tried to adapt an ordinary slotket for tualatins once, and failed 🙁 .
Yet zero problems since using Tualatin-supporting slotkets (powerleap/slot-T) and socket 370 adapters (Lin-Lin).
Tualatins are pretty neat IMO, since they put classic mainboards with ISA slots above the 1GHz barrier without a sweat. Especially the Tualatin-S with 512kB L2 is neat. And the neatest of all is my Multiplier unlocked Tualatin-S. 😀

Will a modded slocket still support a Coppermine?