Source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tualatin-P-IIIs-1-4GH … =item3f04fd9f47
30 dollars incl. international shipping if you don't want to do it yourself 😉

I saw that and it's sooo tempting, but on the other hand I'm soooo cheap.
😜

That guy must have ultrasteady hands.

Edit:
I didn't do the VSS to VID25mv bridge because I thought it was unneeded with slockets which have voltage selectors.
Maybe it's needed in all cases?

TheLazy1 wrote:

... and the AK4->AN11 bridge was done on the back of the slocket ...

Just in case ... if pin AK4 is broken/isolated from the socket, then bridging on the back of the slocket can't work ...

OH MY GOD!
That explains it 😜

Thank you, now to figure something else out.

Do you remember the pencil trick with Athlons?
Might that work to test if bridging CPU side would work, or is it one of those "do it properly with conductive paint" type of things?

Shit happens ... guess who made exactly the same mistake .

How I made it finally work OK (the pics aren't mine, but I did a very similar job).

First, to bridge AK4 - AN11 I used very thin enamelled copper wire, sanded (only) the extremes, then bent each extreme like a hook, then hooked both pins:

Then to isolate the pins, I lifted the white plastic socket from the mobo or slocket, inserted CPU in flying socket, then from under the socket sheathed the three protruding pins with thin telephone wire cover:

Finally I inserted the white plastic socket complete with CPU back into slocket.

Of the 2 Tualatin rigs I've owned- the first, I modified the socket + chip using these instructions:
http://home.arcor.de/frogge/pepper/tua/tuareport1.html and
http://steania88.altervista.org/ind.htm

The second, I bought the chip from the Korean dude on ebay.

I recommend the 2nd option wholeheartedly. Good 370 boards and slotkets are getting rare, so you might regret modifying them or even worse, frying something.

I so regret breaking the pins instead of insulating them now...

Yeah, the wire & sheath mod has the advantage of easy reversibility, nothing is really altered.

Once the pins are broken I'd try soldering a wire like the Korean, or conductive paint.

I also got a moment of thought to use my 1400 tuelatins into my dual s370 coppermine P3 board.
But i do not like to modify / break the original pins.

But i still wonder why people are having them mod to stick onto a slocket board onto a Slot board even with Via chipset,.... why? why not get a decent s370 board instead?

I am sorry i just do not understand, you cant run 133fsb stable anyway.

JaNoZ wrote:

... you cant run 133fsb stable anyway.

Beg your pardon?

I have really thin insulated wire here which I think could work if I wrapped one end around AN11 and soldered the other onto AK4.
The question is how to hook up AK4 in such a small space without bridging the nearby pins?

OK OK Telvm, i am sorry but i really meant was that the BX was not designed for 133 or above.
You are not going to tell me there is a 1/2 AGP divider on you board? and for that it is a pain to run 133.

I tried several BX boards and a P2 350 @ 466 for some time until my hdd got corrupted due to the insane out of spec buses.
You have to have some special hardware to run 150mhz at your BX board.
Therefore i prefer original capable 133mhz boards.
I dont ciritize your luck on slot, i just dont like them slot boards so much....
And the 90 degrees cpu slot design is just a bad idea to me.
I am going to get rid of all my slot stuff in a few months.

I agree Slot-1 sucks big time, specially for cooling (funny how Intel announced it back in the day as the next best thing since sliced bread ... only to discard it a few years later for the 'cheap' s370), but I can handle.

AGP runs way out of spec in Tualatinized BX boards, but (here is the deal) there are GPUs that tolerate it OK.

I'm running 768MB of RAM in my hybrid dinosaur, can a i815 do that?

Also in many comparative tests BX kicks i815 butt.

To quote a Vogons forumer:

gerwin wrote:

... the 'Tualatin on BX' club, a combination that was never meant to be, but works like nothing else ...

I just ordered a 1.4GHz P3 to work with.
It's not the pre-modded version but this way I can make the connection and insulate the pins much easier than attempting to solder in such a small area.

it's a shame my P2B can't handle CPUs under 1.8V,
I was thinking about getting a tualatin, but the slockets that can bypass the voltage limit are to rare, and the cheap ones have no control over voltage, I will probably end up using one cheap slocket, with the pinmod to 1.8v (from a 1.7v Coppermine), it should be a nice upgrade over the current PII I have on it for some games (well, if the pin mod works).

Got my chip today, did the mods and it's giving me the cpu error beep codes.

What slocket are you using?

My googling leaves me to believe it's an FIC CK71.

Edit:
Maybe it needs the VSS to VID25mv bridge too.

Edit:
Did the VSS->Vid25mv bridge, now it doesn't give the beep codes but doesn't post either.

Edit:
Didn't work in my 440ZX board either, the fans just keep running.

Edit:
Re-did it and still no go.
No beeps though, but still no post.