I think I have a Mach64 PCI somewhere, I'll go see if it's the same model as yours.

edit: I found it! The 2nd card I took out of the box was exactly your model number, except mine ended with "-20" instead of yours which ends with "-30" so mine is probably an older revision.

Mine has 6 yellow blocks where yours are black and the markings are too small to read, but I reckon all 6 are exactly the same. Hope this helps ^^

edit2: Not really of any help, but your card is missing the thingies on both sides of your memory chips (it only has solder dots) where mine has the actual black plastic thingies. It's most likely for a memory upgrade module of some sort, though I don't have one I think.
Theres also some other minor differences.

maybe u didnt notice but i think one of the resistor components (i dunno if its a resistor? its a black block thing)
right near the vga connector.. looks like its been broken off look near the vga connector.. its 1 2 X the 3rd one in the row is kaput

is VGA RGB? because if it is.. that would explain why its not getting any RED.. and everythings yellow. when i connect the monitor
my question is.. can i get someone to resolder a component on that one part and fix the card?>
or is it too small to solder + fix?

chrisNova777 wrote:

maybe u didnt notice but i think one of the resistor components (i dunno if its a resistor? its a black block thing) right near […]
Show full quote

maybe u didnt notice but i think one of the resistor components (i dunno if its a resistor? its a black block thing)
right near the vga connector.. looks like its been broken off look near the vga connector.. its 1 2 X the 3rd one in the row is kaput

is VGA RGB? because if it is.. that would explain why its not getting any RED.. and everythings yellow. when i connect the monitor
my question is.. can i get someone to resolder a component on that one part and fix the card?>
or is it too small to solder + fix?

Yes, it's why I dug out my own Mach64 and compared, but mine has 6 yellow components while yours has 2 black ones, 1 apparently broken black one and 3 empty spots with only solder dots.

its been broken like this since like.. 1999 😀 🤣 i just kinda want to fix it !!! for some reason..
like i said its one of my first if not THE first PCI card i ever bought.. with a 486 PCI computer ..
either an ACER or ASUS coz thse are the onyl boards i ever bought from day 1 because i was
a tech when i was 16 i used to build 386/486 - was my first job i ever had! but i kind of leaned away
from that career path 😁 went into graphics + animation instead.. anyway guaranteed i played DOOM on this
very card back in the day and ultima 7 serpent isle ! maybe some ultima online

This is repairable, but one needs the proper tools for that. It is most probably the resistor for the red signal as you suspect, but to be sure you'd have to see to what pin of the connector it goes. No harm in soldering another resistor there, though, as it is obvious one used to be there.

The missing component is an inductor, part of the blue analog output filter at VGA pin 3. Because blue is missing, you have everything yellow, as you only have red and green.

It's almost impossible to know what inductance value the part would have.
I suggest finding an identical broken card that you could remove the part from.
You can try what happens if you just bypass the inductor with a wire, but then you change the filter properties, most likely the filter cutoff will be at higher frequency, making the blue signal sharper than the other signals. It could have a visible effect on the picture, or not, but it won't break anything.

Jepael wrote:

The missing component is an inductor, part of the blue analog output filter (because blue is missing, you have everything yellow […]
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The missing component is an inductor, part of the blue analog output filter (because blue is missing, you have everything yellow, as you only have red and green).

It's almost impossible to know what inductance value the part would have.
I suggest finding an identical broken card that you could remove the part from.
You can try what happens if you just bypass the inductor with a wire, but then you change the filter properties, most likely the filter cutoff will be at higher frequency, making the blue signal sharper than the other signals. It could have a visible effect on the picture, or not, but it won't break anything.

Oh god, yeah, I goofed.
Well, depending on you monitor the extra sharpness might actually be a good thing... to the point you might as well remove all inductors and bypass them all... if it is actually noticeable.

thanks guys!!!!!
i knew it wasnt a resistor. but i had no clue what it would be called

I found image of Mach64 with similar PCB, but different inductors:
http://www.xn-www-sd4eq5d.vgamuseum.info/imag … 64gx_top_hq.jpg

it uses two inductor in series instead of one. I can see a 151k markings, so they are probably 151 uH inductors.
Your card has just one inductor and 0R resistor, which is basically a jumper. We don't know the inductance, it could be 151 uH, or 300uH if we sum up inductance of two inductors, but it can also be something different.

http://uk.farnell.com/tdk/nlfv32t-151k-ef/ind … 5a/dp/2407463RL - here is an example of such 151 uH inductor, but if you want to buy it, find something in retail with cheap shipping, and don't overpay because these components should never cost more than one buck. But I don't guarantee that it will work, maybe it needs to be 300uH or something else. You can measure inductance of existing components, but you need some professional equipment (i never measured that).

It is more likely to be in nanohenries. 150 microhenries would be absurdly large value in video filters as it would not pass the bandwidth needed.

i just realized mine actually says 1995 on the sticker on the removable chip

and i think the header on the card is meant to be used for adding a video capture "WONDER" board