Soak the board's affected areas with white vinegar then clean it with IPA and it will be fine, that board does not look like it got any battery leakage into the layers, it's all surface and via corrosion which can be dealt with.

imi wrote on 2020-06-05, 00:36:

a few random cards...

As usual, nice cards you got there...!

appiah4 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:56:

Soak the board's affected areas with white vinegar then clean it with IPA and it will be fine, that board does not look like it got any battery leakage into the layers, it's all surface and via corrosion which can be dealt with.

The board looks like a Soyo SY-4SAW2 board. Mine had minimal damage under the battery and there's a bit on the side of the PCI slot, but it's not affecting the slot. Did trace repairs and it works without issues. It worked for the seller when he tested it and swapped the NiCd battery with a CR2032 battery by soldering a battery holder to the board and removing D2 to prevent the charging circuit from being used.

Still retains the settings, which is good and no other damage. Would removing ICs also help get underneath said chips in case there's more corrosion underneath that cannot be reached, or not really?

imi wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:27:

dave343 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:23:

Well, now I’m afraid I may have wasted time and $... I flipped the board over and it looks like the blue stuff went through all the tiny circuit lead holes. I’ll test it later tonight, but the damage looks pretty bad... I don’t understand how the guy could say they are new old stock, and tested working. You’d think he would at least try to clean the board up.

well they might be new old stock, those batteries just leak by themselves after a while, and it might even still work like that.

I've got a Chaintech 340AC board where the traces under/around where the battery was when an unknown gentleman in Ukraine cut the battery off and tested the board are...quite ugly, but it somehow still just works anyway!

pentiumspeed wrote on 2020-06-02, 23:46:

Type 61 refers to compaq-unique type drive table. I can see the "compaq" in the conner hard drive. […]
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Type 61 refers to compaq-unique type drive table. I can see the "compaq" in the conner hard drive.

This is compatible with old bios and clone motherboards: if you can type in these parameters and use IDE port on card. Leave it as single. Conner is a big bear to setup in dual hard drive setup and is incompatible with another hard drive, no matter what even another conner!

CP3541 formatted size: 510MB cylinders: 989 Heads: 16 Sectors: 63. Notes: Compaq drive type: 61

Source:
file:///D:/Downloads/compaq/pc_engineers_vol3dl.pdf

Cheers,

Hey, thanks for the tip, it works with these params! Just installed DOS 6.22...

wiretap wrote on 2020-06-05, 14:50:

ildonaldo wrote on 2020-06-05, 13:34:

This is my latest buy - came as NOS, but unfortunately without the drivers/software disk. Still have to test it with #3 of my si […]
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This is my latest buy - came as NOS, but unfortunately without the drivers/software disk.
Still have to test it with #3 of my sig

TNX to evasive and Doornkaat, I've probably got the neccessary drivers and software for the display 😀
... it's a bit hard to come by.

Sorry for any double-posting, but I am really, really excited about this pice of hardware 😀) it will complete my #3 which is built from one of my original PCs of that time, only the case is a new add on, but in period.
... hope the display works ...

Nice. I have probably 3 or 4 of those exact displays. I ran them in all my HTPC's and gaming PC. It should work.. I have had one of mine running for at least 8 years straight 🤣. If you need the original drivers, I have them as well in a ZIP file, but I can make ISO's of the mini CD's that came with them.

These displays do work with LCD Smartie and AIDA64 as well.

I found the driver disc I have. I have uploaded it to: https://archive.org/details/vl-install

appiah4 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:56:

Soak the board's affected areas with white vinegar then clean it with IPA and it will be fine, that board does not look like it got any battery leakage into the layers, it's all surface and via corrosion which can be dealt with.

Thanks for the suggestions, I was also told by someone to mix baking soda with distilled water, as this mix will neutralize the acid, then rise the affected area’s off with distilled, and finally wipe down with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, and of course let it dry like mad before attempting a boot 😀

dave343 wrote on 2020-06-06, 01:09:

appiah4 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:56:

Soak the board's affected areas with white vinegar then clean it with IPA and it will be fine, that board does not look like it got any battery leakage into the layers, it's all surface and via corrosion which can be dealt with.

Thanks for the suggestions, I was also told by someone to mix baking soda with distilled water, as this mix will neutralize the acid, then rise the affected area’s off with distilled, and finally wipe down with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, and of course let it dry like mad before attempting a boot 😀

It may be known as battery "acid" (and is in some cells) but in this case (NiCD) the electrolyte solution is an Alkaline (base). It needs an acid to neutralize it.

dave343 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:03:

I bought it from eBay, the seller said it was tested/working...... it wasn’t on the sellers pictures...

He is a liar and he knew about the corrosion. I'd send this board back at his expense. He probably does this scam a lot, manipulating with photos and sending buyers failed stuff without warranty.

I hate it when that happens. Normally, I ask the seller to take a picture of it working and if it ain't working, screw it.

I got all of this for 10€ today.

computerguy08 wrote on 2020-06-06, 07:42:

I got all of this for 10€ today.

20200606_102743.jpg

Nice find! For you know if they are working?

Got this 3com HUB for my retro computers.

I'm most happy about it because of its 10Base2. Thanks to this HUB, i can bring in my normal local network and then go forward with coxial 10Base2 cheapernet.
I have never had experience with that kind of network, only heared about it in my childhood at late 1990s and early 2000s.
Soon it's going to serve my 386, 486 and Pentium MMX machines.

For a 5€ price, it's a steal.

waterbeesje wrote on 2020-06-06, 09:44:

computerguy08 wrote on 2020-06-06, 07:42:

I got all of this for 10€ today.

20200606_102743.jpg

Nice find! For you know if they are working?

They all work except for the iBook. It just outputs 3 beeps.

Now that I have my old pa-2013 up and running almost stable (I think I need to replace the smaller caps), I'm going to simply upgrade that system with this eBay find, that I expected to have to recap, but it's been done and seemingly done well.

computerguy08 wrote on 2020-06-06, 11:32:

They all work except for the iBook. It just outputs 3 beeps.

That's either bad RAM, or a bad logic board. Worth popping off the keyboard and reseating the RAM (and Airport card, if it is equipped with one) to see if that helps.

GigAHerZ wrote on 2020-06-06, 10:42:

Got this 3com HUB for my retro computers. […]
Show full quote

Got this 3com HUB for my retro computers.

I'm most happy about it because of its 10Base2. Thanks to this HUB, i can bring in my normal local network and then go forward with coxial 10Base2 cheapernet.
I have never had experience with that kind of network, only heared about it in my childhood at late 1990s and early 2000s.
Soon it's going to serve my 386, 486 and Pentium MMX machines.

For a 5€ price, it's a steal.

Great stuff! So long as it's not mission-critical 10Base2 Thinnet was and is good fun. Just don't ever stick the cables in your mouth when live...

zPacKRat wrote on 2020-06-06, 19:09:

Now that I have my old pa-2013 up and running almost stable (I think I need to replace the smaller caps), I'm going to simply up […]
Show full quote

Now that I have my old pa-2013 up and running almost stable (I think I need to replace the smaller caps), I'm going to simply upgrade that system with this eBay find, that I expected to have to recap, but it's been done and seemingly done well.

Your picture is not showing up.

Maybe download it and attach it to the forum.

Miphee wrote on 2020-06-06, 05:20:

dave343 wrote on 2020-06-05, 20:03:

I bought it from eBay, the seller said it was tested/working...... it wasn’t on the sellers pictures...

He is a liar and he knew about the corrosion. I'd send this board back at his expense. He probably does this scam a lot, manipulating with photos and sending buyers failed stuff without warranty.

Tbh it can be working in this condition. The damage looks very recent, so it's probably not eaten into anything vital yet. I'd get out the toothbrush with (white) vinegar and scrub it off. If it doesn't work, then the seller's got something to answer for, but if it does he's ignorant at worst.

I was lucky with the Soyo board that it had small trace damage and that the battery jumper was removed to prevent more damage to be done.