DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 10:52:

EDIT: Oh, wait. It might be because of my VPN. Now that I've disabled it, I have seen these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256474137094?_skw= … %3ABFBM3J-fucFm

Would those work? Mind you, they're not listed as SPDIF.

No, those are not the correct cables. And that connector wouldn't physically fit into the relevant ports on the CD-ROM drive and the sound card.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 11:22:

I'm wondering, to be honest, if it would work out cheaper and easier just getting a different sound card. I don't fancy paying the shipping fees from the US for a simple cable. But then if WDM drivers for a different sound card are going to be iffy regardless...

All PCI sound cards made by Creative have the same EAX issues when using WDM drivers under Win9x. Not sure about other manufacturers.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-22, 11:39:

No, those are not the correct cables. And that connector wouldn't physically fit into the relevant ports on the CD-ROM drive and […]
Show full quote

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 10:52:

EDIT: Oh, wait. It might be because of my VPN. Now that I've disabled it, I have seen these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256474137094?_skw= … %3ABFBM3J-fucFm

Would those work? Mind you, they're not listed as SPDIF.

No, those are not the correct cables. And that connector wouldn't physically fit into the relevant ports on the CD-ROM drive and the sound card.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 11:22:

I'm wondering, to be honest, if it would work out cheaper and easier just getting a different sound card. I don't fancy paying the shipping fees from the US for a simple cable. But then if WDM drivers for a different sound card are going to be iffy regardless...

All PCI sound cards made by Creative have the same EAX issues when using WDM drivers under Win9x. Not sure about other manufacturers.

Yeah, I thought that right after posting. 😅

Hmm. Guess I’ll have to have a thorough search online for the cheapest option available for a cable or two. In the meantime, I’ll experiment with VxD drivers and see what the best ones are.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-22, 11:39:

No, those are not the correct cables. And that connector wouldn't physically fit into the relevant ports on the CD-ROM drive and […]
Show full quote

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 10:52:

EDIT: Oh, wait. It might be because of my VPN. Now that I've disabled it, I have seen these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256474137094?_skw= … %3ABFBM3J-fucFm

Would those work? Mind you, they're not listed as SPDIF.

No, those are not the correct cables. And that connector wouldn't physically fit into the relevant ports on the CD-ROM drive and the sound card.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 11:22:

I'm wondering, to be honest, if it would work out cheaper and easier just getting a different sound card. I don't fancy paying the shipping fees from the US for a simple cable. But then if WDM drivers for a different sound card are going to be iffy regardless...

All PCI sound cards made by Creative have the same EAX issues when using WDM drivers under Win9x. Not sure about other manufacturers.

Would the cable from this work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166637959541?_skw= … ABk9SR_SpqNjBZg

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:05:

Would the cable from this work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166637959541?_skw= … ABk9SR_SpqNjBZg

If you mean the wires coming from that bracket, yes they would work, but the length is way too short.

If you really want to experiment with making your own cable, it might be better to get a pack of female to female DuPont jumper wires, around 50 cm in length. Those are readily available on places like Amazon. Just be careful not to reverse the connection from the CD-ROM pins to the sound card's CD_SPDIF header. That's why pre-built cables have the latches on the connectors, which makes it impossible to insert them the wrong way.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:15:

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:05:

Would the cable from this work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166637959541?_skw= … ABk9SR_SpqNjBZg

If you mean the wires coming from that bracket, yes they would work, but the length is way too short.

If you really want to experiment with making your own cable, it might be better to get a pack of female to female DuPont jumper wires, around 50 cm in length. Those are readily available on places like Amazon. Just be careful not to reverse the connection from the CD-ROM pins to the sound card's CD_SPDIF header. That's why pre-built cables have the latches on the connectors, which makes it impossible to insert them the wrong way.

Ohh, yeah. They do look too short. Bugger.

To be honest, I was considering getting some of those cables. If anything because the Gotek FlashFloppy has the option for sound and it requires one of those cables. Would I need to modify the cables at all? I'd have to be shown the correct way of connecting them, because knowing me... ^^;

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:25:

Would I need to modify the cables at all? I'd have to be shown the correct way of connecting them, because knowing me... ^^;

DuPont wires should fit onto the pins without any modification. As for how to make the connection, the two pins on the CD_SPDIF header are "ground" and "signal". Same for the CD-ROM drive. You want to connect ground to ground and signal to signal of course. On Creative's SBLive and Audigy cards, pin 1 of the CD_SPDIF header is ground, and pin 2 is signal. This is shown in the help file, which is available on the official installation disc that comes with the card. Here's an example:

If you look at this photo of my SBLive SB0100, you can see that pin 1 of its CD_SPDIF header is marked with a white triangle and the number 1:

On the CD-ROM drive, it sometimes varies between models. Generally, the pin marked with a "G" is ground and the one marked with a "D" is signal. But again, this varies, and it would be best to consult the drive's manual for this info. Here's a photo of my drive where the aforementioned markings can be seen:

If you look at Creative's stock SPDIF cable in both pictures, you will see that the black wire is ground, while the white one is signal. And this cable can only be inserted one way, due to the latches.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:38:

DuPont wires should fit onto the pins without any modification. As for how to make the connection, the two pins on the CD_SPDIF […]
Show full quote

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:25:

Would I need to modify the cables at all? I'd have to be shown the correct way of connecting them, because knowing me... ^^;

DuPont wires should fit onto the pins without any modification. As for how to make the connection, the two pins on the CD_SPDIF header are "ground" and "signal". Same for the CD-ROM drive. You want to connect ground to ground and signal to signal of course. On Creative's SBLive and Audigy cards, pin 1 of the CD_SPDIF header is ground, and pin 2 is signal. This is shown in the help file, which is available on the official installation disc that comes with the card. Here's an example:

If you look at this photo of my SBLive SB0100, you can see that pin 1 of its CD_SPDIF header is marked with a white triangle and the number 1:

On the CD-ROM drive, it sometimes varies between models. Generally, the pin marked with a "G" is ground and the one marked with a "D" is signal. But again, this varies, and it would be best to consult the drive's manual for this info. Here's a photo of my drive where the aforementioned markings can be seen:

If you look at Creative's stock SPDIF cable in both pictures, you will see that the black wire is ground, while the white one is signal. And this cable can only be inserted one way, due to the latches.

Awesome. Thank you. I'll order myself a set of those DuPont wires. 😀

Though I take it if they're single DuPont cables, I would just need to plug one into each Ground and one into each Signal? I'm not sure if each of those cables are marked, are they?

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:59:

Though I take it if they're single DuPont cables, I would just need to plug one into each Ground and one into each Signal? I'm not sure if each of those cables are marked, are they?

That's right, you would connect one wire for signal and another wire for ground, when using DuPont. All wires from the same pack are identical, they only differ by color. As long as you get the "female to female" variety, you should be good to go.

Also, a word of caution about CD-ROM drives. Some models have those two pins, but they aren't actually wired to anything internally, and therefore don't work. This is usually the case with older drives, which were made during the mid-late 90s, but some newer ones are guilty of that too. Again, it would be best to find the drive's manual to check if it has proper support for digital audio, and how the relevant pins are marked.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-22, 21:34:

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-22, 20:59:

Though I take it if they're single DuPont cables, I would just need to plug one into each Ground and one into each Signal? I'm not sure if each of those cables are marked, are they?

That's right, you would connect one wire for signal and another wire for ground, when using DuPont. All wires from the same pack are identical, they only differ by color. As long as you get the "female to female" variety, you should be good to go.

Also, a word of caution about CD-ROM drives. Some models have those two pins, but they aren't actually wired to anything internally, and therefore don't work. This is usually the case with older drives, which were made during the mid-late 90s, but some newer ones are guilty of that too. Again, it would be best to find the drive's manual to check if it has proper support for digital audio, and how the relevant pins are marked.

Okay, thanks. I'll see if I can find the manual to my current one and for an eventual one I'll buy.

I've not read through the entire thread yet, but is there mention of one of these sound cards being installed, all drivers are on, the device is recognised, everything checks out, and yet there's still no audio? Even after plugging the speakers into each output?

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 00:59:

I've not read through the entire thread yet, but is there mention of one of these sound cards being installed, all drivers are on, the device is recognised, everything checks out, and yet there's still no audio? Even after plugging the speakers into each output?

I don't think so, at least not under Win9x.

You mentioned that your card might be an OEM variant, right? From what I understand, such cards often need specific drivers from whatever company originally produced them (e.g. Dell, HP, Gateway etc.) in order to work correctly. I don't have any personal experience with OEM Audigy cards, but that seems to be what other people on this forum and elsewhere are reporting.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-23, 02:57:

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 00:59:

I've not read through the entire thread yet, but is there mention of one of these sound cards being installed, all drivers are on, the device is recognised, everything checks out, and yet there's still no audio? Even after plugging the speakers into each output?

I don't think so, at least not under Win9x.

You mentioned that your card might be an OEM variant, right? From what I understand, such cards often need specific drivers from whatever company originally produced them (e.g. Dell, HP, Gateway etc.) in order to work correctly. I don't have any personal experience with OEM Audigy cards, but that seems to be what other people on this forum and elsewhere are reporting.

I'm not sure, to be honest. It was bought second hand from someone who used it on their XP machine, I think. Is there any way of being able to tell if it's an OEM variant?

I looked up the model name/number for my current CD-RW. It's the TEAC-CD W54E from 2000. The manual says it's reserved for factory use only...? So I'm guessing it doesn't have SPDIF/digital audio functionality...?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1053168/Tea … ?page=14#manual

EDIT: The seller confirmed it was purchased separately either from Creative Labs or some other component store. That it didn't come as part of a complete system, but used for a home custom build.

But yeah, it's just odd that everything installed fine, all the utilities are on, it recognises the card, it's in Multimedia, Dxdiag, the volume controls, the Device Manager, but I still get no audio. I've tried each of the cards coloured outputs, but, nada.

Cracked it! Thanks to this thread - SOLVED No sound coming from SB Audigy 2 - it's because digital output was ticked when it should be analog. 😁

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 11:07:

I'm not sure, to be honest. It was bought second hand from someone who used it on their XP machine, I think. Is there any way of being able to tell if it's an OEM variant?

OEM Audigy cards usually have three white stickers on the back. One of those contains a lengthy serial number. Instead of the standard "SB0240" for the retail Audigy 2, the serial number of an OEM card might start with "SB0249" or something like that. You can find the list of various OEM Audigy cards on this page.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 11:07:

I looked up the model name/number for my current CD-RW. It's the TEAC-CD W54E from 2000. The manual says it's reserved for factory use only...? So I'm guessing it doesn't have SPDIF/digital audio functionality...?

Sadly, yes. That drive doesn't support digital audio via SPDIF. From my experience, CD and DVD drives manufactured between 2001 and 2004 have the highest chance of featuring working digital audio pins. Also, drives made by Creative Labs almost always have functional digital audio, regardless of their manufacturing date.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-23, 12:00:

OEM Audigy cards usually have three white stickers on the back. One of those contains a lengthy serial number. Instead of the st […]
Show full quote

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 11:07:

I'm not sure, to be honest. It was bought second hand from someone who used it on their XP machine, I think. Is there any way of being able to tell if it's an OEM variant?

OEM Audigy cards usually have three white stickers on the back. One of those contains a lengthy serial number. Instead of the standard "SB0240" for the retail Audigy 2, the serial number of an OEM card might start with "SB0249" or something like that. You can find the list of various OEM Audigy cards on this page.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 11:07:

I looked up the model name/number for my current CD-RW. It's the TEAC-CD W54E from 2000. The manual says it's reserved for factory use only...? So I'm guessing it doesn't have SPDIF/digital audio functionality...?

Sadly, yes. That drive doesn't support digital audio via SPDIF. From my experience, CD and DVD drives manufactured between 2001 and 2004 have the highest chance of featuring working digital audio pins. Also, drives made by Creative Labs almost always have functional digital audio, regardless of their manufacturing date.

Okay, thanks for clarifying. But yeah, definitely not OEM then. 😀

Well, thankfully I don't need to worry too much about SPDIF for now as I managed to get the drivers/audio working with WDM drivers. But it's something to bear in mind when I get another CD-ROM drive. The one I'm using is from my previous build, which is now my test build. I'll still look at picking up some of those cables. Thanks.

I have another question. I've noticed that adjusting the volume on my right speaker has zero effect. Just the volume slider for Volume and Wave. That's the case even if I unplug the audio jack from the Sound Blaster and switch over to my Yamaha card. I did notice that, in the Surround Mixer that was installed, that the speaker volume controls for front centre volume and subwoofer are greyed out. And there doesn't appear to be an option to re-enable them. I'm guessing this is why I can't manually adjust the volume using the speaker? Is there a way of enabling them?

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 18:34:

I have another question. I've noticed that adjusting the volume on my right speaker has zero effect. Just the volume slider for Volume and Wave. That's the case even if I unplug the audio jack from the Sound Blaster and switch over to my Yamaha card.

A strange problem indeed. No idea what could be causing that, but maybe someone else can chime in.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 18:34:

I did notice that, in the Surround Mixer that was installed, that the speaker volume controls for front centre volume and subwoofer are greyed out. And there doesn't appear to be an option to re-enable them. I'm guessing this is why I can't manually adjust the volume using the speaker? Is there a way of enabling them?

I think those are greyed out if you have your speaker configuration set to "Stereo". But in case you've connected a set of surround speakers to the card, then you need to change the speaker configuration to 5.1 or whatever is appropriate for them. On Audigy cards, this is done from the Speaker Settings utility.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-23, 19:56:

A strange problem indeed. No idea what could be causing that, but maybe someone else can chime in. […]
Show full quote

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 18:34:

I have another question. I've noticed that adjusting the volume on my right speaker has zero effect. Just the volume slider for Volume and Wave. That's the case even if I unplug the audio jack from the Sound Blaster and switch over to my Yamaha card.

A strange problem indeed. No idea what could be causing that, but maybe someone else can chime in.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 18:34:

I did notice that, in the Surround Mixer that was installed, that the speaker volume controls for front centre volume and subwoofer are greyed out. And there doesn't appear to be an option to re-enable them. I'm guessing this is why I can't manually adjust the volume using the speaker? Is there a way of enabling them?

I think those are greyed out if you have your speaker configuration set to "Stereo". But in case you've connected a set of surround speakers to the card, then you need to change the speaker configuration to 5.1 or whatever is appropriate for them. On Audigy cards, this is done from the Speaker Settings utility.

Well, it's only 2 stereo speakers and a subwoofer, so I figure it's a 2.1 setup? That's what it's set to anyway.

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 20:16:

Well, it's only 2 stereo speakers and a subwoofer, so I figure it's a 2.1 setup? That's what it's set to anyway.

I'm not sure if Creative's utilities from that era could differentiate between stereo and 2.1. Period correct 2.1 speakers commonly just used a single jack, which plugged into the Line Out 1 port on Audigy cards (green port). On the other hand, 5.1 surround speakers had three jacks: a green one (front speakers), an orange one (subwoofer/front center) and a black one (rear speakers). I'm just guessing here, but I imagine if the card cannot detect a jack in the corresponding port, it doesn't allow controlling the relevant speaker(s).

Honestly, I never bothered with these settings all that much. I use a surround system, so I just set my speaker configuration to 5.1 and call it a day. Never really felt the need to do more precise adjustments.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-23, 20:44:

DustyShinigami wrote on 2025-10-23, 20:16:

Well, it's only 2 stereo speakers and a subwoofer, so I figure it's a 2.1 setup? That's what it's set to anyway.

I'm not sure if Creative's utilities from that era could differentiate between stereo and 2.1. Period correct 2.1 speakers commonly just used a single jack, which plugged into the Line Out 1 port on Audigy cards (green port). On the other hand, 5.1 surround speakers had three jacks: a green one (front speakers), an orange one (subwoofer/front center) and a black one (rear speakers). I'm just guessing here, but I imagine if the card cannot detect a jack in the corresponding port, it doesn't allow controlling the relevant speaker(s).

Honestly, I never bothered with these settings all that much. I use a surround system, so I just set my speaker configuration to 5.1 and call it a day. Never really felt the need to do more precise adjustments.

It happens with both cards whereas before it didn't happen with the Yamaha. No matter which card I switch to, I'm unable to control the volume from the speaker. I only have two cables as well - black and green. The black comes from my subwoofer, which is hooked to both speakers, and the green is from my sound canvas. Plugging the black into the black of the Sound Blaster doesn't give me any sound, only if I plug it into the green.

EDIT: Phew. False alarm. It was me being stupid. ^^; I'd plugged one of the right speaker cables into Output when it should have been Input 1.