This has been over the past few weeks, but I have been on a roll when it comes to getting weird old devices working. These have all been set aside for repair, some for up to seven years.
In order of when I worked on them:
1. Yuan JRS-3DS100 - Nvidia NV1 2MB PCI - Reflowed all chips, fixed several broken SMD components (replaced all electrolytics a few years ago) - Result = 100% working card!
2. CyberRex 128 VR - Avance Logic ALG25128 4MB PCI - Reflowed all chips, replaced soldered memory chips, replaced some SMD components - Result = 80% working card! (artifacts at very high refresh rates and resolutions, but totally fine otherwise)
3. Aristo\Bannsan BS-5 - Alliance AT3D 4MB PCI - Replaced all electrolytic caps years ago; Found broken solder joints with microscope and reflowed them two days ago; installed least buggy driver version - Result = 100% working card! ... well 100% as far as what an AT3D can do. It is still buggy in games but overall works great!
4. Britec Viewtop BP-S3Ax - S3 Trio64v+ 4MB PCI (All Socketed) - Uncommon card that is good for testing memory chips since all are socketed; replaced a bad memory chip and discovered a compatibility issue with my 440BX tester PC (not sure if software or hardware yet) - Result = 100% working card! (In a different PC...)
5. & 6. Artist Graphics Artist 2000\Netvision 2000 - Artist Graphics 3GA 2MB PCI - Two identical cards; one needed a broken SMD component replaced; Neither worked properly in Windows with any drivers I tried... until I tried the latest "Netvision" drivers that apparently work perfectly! Result = 2 x 100% working cards!
Here is a random assortment of things I have learned over the past few weeks:
Buy a binocular microscope! It is worth it. So is a hot air station. Build proficiency with those tools. Learn to use flux and solder paste.
When inspecting cards: always always check for bent or shorted pins\legs on chips before powering the device on.
If there is a problem, check for damaged components (look for scratches or scuffs and then follow their path); test for loose chip legs with a microscope (5x power) and a sewing needle; check for broken solder joints even on SMD components like SOJ memory (the gap may be visible from the side).
Visual artifacts that pop up and go away when touching a chip or PCB may be a loose\floating leg on a memory chip. Don't assume that tiny SMD components are okay. Capacitors and resistors can be physically broken or cracked in a way that breaks a circuit even if both ends of the component are still attached to the PCB.
Don't forget to clean flux from card edge connectors before testing them. Flux likes to get everywhere and leave a nasty coating, especially after you've tried cleaning it up with alcohol. This will prevent a card from getting good contact in the slot, which may lead you to believe it is the same or worse off than before you repaired it.
... there are many many other things, but that's a good start. I'm not sure which card is next on the list, but I know I have more that have been on the "need repaired" list for years.
